need help with 1992 ford bus (e350 I believe?)
#1
need help with 1992 ford bus (e350 I believe?)
Hello forum. Need help! Have an amazing tailgate rig; conversion from a small transit bus.
Two issues we are having...
1) Bus starts most of the time, but it seems after driving for a while, and at the worst time possible (i.e. at the gas station), when I turn the key over it clicks but does not crank. Had the starter replaced last season but on the last game of the season (and at the gas station...) took no less than 20 attempts to get the engine to finally crank. Clicks every time, just does not start consistently.
2) Temp gauge does not work. Took the bus into a ford dealership and they diagnosed as a temp sender issue? Said that they would have to torch it out, no gtds that they could fix, and it comes with a very big price tag. Not second guessing the dealership, but wanted to get any input anyone here might have.
Really appreciate any insight or advice. Thank you in advance!
Two issues we are having...
1) Bus starts most of the time, but it seems after driving for a while, and at the worst time possible (i.e. at the gas station), when I turn the key over it clicks but does not crank. Had the starter replaced last season but on the last game of the season (and at the gas station...) took no less than 20 attempts to get the engine to finally crank. Clicks every time, just does not start consistently.
2) Temp gauge does not work. Took the bus into a ford dealership and they diagnosed as a temp sender issue? Said that they would have to torch it out, no gtds that they could fix, and it comes with a very big price tag. Not second guessing the dealership, but wanted to get any input anyone here might have.
Really appreciate any insight or advice. Thank you in advance!
#2
Your starter issue is most likely related to the starter solenoid. While I suspect its failing due age check the heavy cables running from the battery and to the starter, make sure those are in top condition.
Since it does start when cold or cool it would seem the starter itself is okay for the moment.
Why the temp sender would be so much of a problem escapes me although I don't have any direct experience with your engine. One would think a dealership has done this many times, not that complicated or expensive. Could be wrong on that count though.
HTH
Since it does start when cold or cool it would seem the starter itself is okay for the moment.
Why the temp sender would be so much of a problem escapes me although I don't have any direct experience with your engine. One would think a dealership has done this many times, not that complicated or expensive. Could be wrong on that count though.
HTH
#4
#5
its not uncommon for a dying starter to work when cold but not when hot, especially on engines where its too close to the exhaust.
as for your temp sender, they make it sound like its probably rusted in place pretty badly for them to say they'll have to torch it out. most engines have a few plugs that go into the water jacket in various places on the heads and/or intake manifold which could be an alternate place for a temp sender, but you might have to extend its wires to do so. plugs into the cooling system are usually on 3/8 or 1/2 NPT, and your original sensor probably is as well.
as for your temp sender, they make it sound like its probably rusted in place pretty badly for them to say they'll have to torch it out. most engines have a few plugs that go into the water jacket in various places on the heads and/or intake manifold which could be an alternate place for a temp sender, but you might have to extend its wires to do so. plugs into the cooling system are usually on 3/8 or 1/2 NPT, and your original sensor probably is as well.
#6
Long time lurker here, finally signed up to answer you. I had a similar issue with my 89 E-350 RV. Turn key, click, turn again, click, turn again, starts fine.
I thought my battery was ****, so I replaced it 3 times only to keep having the same issue. Eventually I turned the key and the damn thing kept trying to start even after I removed the key from the column. My dad figured out if he hit above the passenger side headlight it'd correct itself. So we went in to investigate, and sure enough the solenoid was sticking.
Bought a new one from rockauto for like $7 and now she's a 1 turn starter.
TL;DR don't waste a ton of money like me, it's your starter solenoid.
Here is what it looks like.
I thought my battery was ****, so I replaced it 3 times only to keep having the same issue. Eventually I turned the key and the damn thing kept trying to start even after I removed the key from the column. My dad figured out if he hit above the passenger side headlight it'd correct itself. So we went in to investigate, and sure enough the solenoid was sticking.
Bought a new one from rockauto for like $7 and now she's a 1 turn starter.
TL;DR don't waste a ton of money like me, it's your starter solenoid.
Here is what it looks like.
#7
The Starter relay on a '92 E350 cutaway will be located on the left (driver's) side front radiator support, just under the lip, just in front of the battery.
Make sure you pull the negative off the battery first, as this cable is hot off the battery.
Agree that the relay is your problem, and replace that first.
If you still have a problem with start, check your key ignition switch on the column, and also the starter switch/rod on the lower tube of the column.
The temp sending unit is important with this engine, as the temp is relayed into the PCM for engine control, lean/rich mixture.
Yes, the dealer will charge an outrages amount to cover their overhead
(ever see a snotty looking dealership showroom?)
If you can find a good local shop, owner/operated garage, they will have the experience, tools and equipment for this problem job.
If not, you can try to heat the temp sending unit, even with a propane torch to get it loose, and with some PB blaster to break the seal, don't PB blast it first, then torch, the PB will ignite.
Make sure you pull the negative off the battery first, as this cable is hot off the battery.
Agree that the relay is your problem, and replace that first.
If you still have a problem with start, check your key ignition switch on the column, and also the starter switch/rod on the lower tube of the column.
The temp sending unit is important with this engine, as the temp is relayed into the PCM for engine control, lean/rich mixture.
Yes, the dealer will charge an outrages amount to cover their overhead
(ever see a snotty looking dealership showroom?)
If you can find a good local shop, owner/operated garage, they will have the experience, tools and equipment for this problem job.
If not, you can try to heat the temp sending unit, even with a propane torch to get it loose, and with some PB blaster to break the seal, don't PB blast it first, then torch, the PB will ignite.
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#8
Really? The cutaway mounts the battery, solenoid and starter on the driver's side? Never knew that, thought those were just normal E-Series chassis missing the body from the B-Pillars rearward?
#9
The starter motor is still on the right (passenger) side on the tranny bell housing.
There is space on the right side for an additional battery, or for the "standard" E series.
I've seen the "newer" cutaways, from '02+? that mount the battery on the frame rail, right side, behind the B-pillar. And the Diesels have 2 battery's mounted in this area.
An '05 Diesel that I was going to buy, had the two battery's mounded on the outside of the frame rail, with a +/- post for jumping, kind of like that idea, except...........how do you keep the battery's from walking away some dark night
#10
Thanks for the info Wildman---I had no clue the cutaways were that different.
Given the weight of those frame-mounted batteries along with the relative difficulty removing them most crooks probably don't want to work that hard. Other than that there's nothing too theft deterrent about that location.
Given the weight of those frame-mounted batteries along with the relative difficulty removing them most crooks probably don't want to work that hard. Other than that there's nothing too theft deterrent about that location.
#11
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