Working on a friend's truck, high mileage but is overall a great running truck.

He stalled driving Saturday. Here in Virginia it was probably our warmest day so far for spring, mid-upper 80's. He made it to the shoulder, let it cool, it fired up and he made it another 20 miles or so.

Did it again. Let it cool, started, made it another 15 miles or so.

Did it again. This time it would crank but not start. He said he could hear the pump priming.

Got it towed home. I stopped by, checked the schrader valve on the fuel rail and there was fuel present.

All the trucks I've had of this vintage always ended up dying and needed eventually the TFI module replaced. I don't like to throw parts though so I printed out my old article for testing the TFI.

Got over there and it won't crank. Key turns but binds as it reachs "start". It won't return to "run". So I thought maybe the ignition cylinder is toast after 208k. Realizing it's going to take a good bit to get the cylinder out I was looking for anything obvious.

I dropped the column to try and see if somehow the arm connecting the cylinder to the ignition switch was binding, broken, etc.

I couldn't see anything obvious so I unbolted the ignition switch from the column, lifted it off the the arm, and the ignition cylinder now rotates smoothly.

Advance and Auto Zone both said they can't test the ignition switch. It's a cheap part, but could that itself been the culprit of his stalls also?

My goal was to check the engine for spark, and test out the TFI module, but we have to get the thing to crank 1st.

I've never dealt with a switch before, so it's new territory for me. Thoughts or input welcome.

Thanks

 

With that many miles and the fact that you have the column down and the switch is cheap, I would replace it. If the the lock cylinder operates smoothly now, it's an indication that the switch is sticky. You can operate the switch manually...I use an allen key, but a screwdriver will work as well. You could even carry the switch to the store and compare the "feel" to a new switch before you purchase. And yes, the switch could cause problems with starting/running. It's not a known problem area, but there are several points of contact inside that could give issue.

Most likely, as you know, the real problem is the TFI module. When you carry in in for testing be prepared for it to test good. Test again, and again, and again. Mine tested good a few times in a row, but started showing bad as it got a little heat in it.

 

Yeah...I agree...definitely change the switch out...its cheap and with over 200k on her, she deserves a new one

 

Ignition switch has it up and running. I don't trust the TFI on the dis, but it does look somewhat newer than the parts around it so maybe he dodged a bullet there for now....but he has a new one in the glovebox.

Thanks for the input.

 

Buuuuump. The column mounted switch fixed her months ago. She has run flawless.

The truck is back to a non op condition. Key turns (stiffly) and all the dummy lights come on, the buzzer doesn't stay on.

I'm thinking the cylinder is hosed with mileage and use, it's hard to turn.

Tried replacing switch to see if that would work with another new one, but no dice.

Thoughts on graphite spray and possible cylinder replacement?

AAA called.....

 

Sounds like this time it may be the lock cylinder or, very likely, the actuator inside the column that connects the lock cylinder to the switch mounted farther down on the column.


To get going for now, drop the column, take the switch off and let it hang loose. Reach under the dash and manually operate the switch with an allen key, screwdriver, bent nail, whatever... I've been doing it that way in mine for several months.


The actuator is kinda hard to change. It takes several tools and is especially aggravating because the steering wheel must be removed. Luckily, that part is less than $20.


The key lock cylinder removes easily. I think you just depress a button inside a hole beneath the cylinder and it pulls right out. You can then "bench test" the cylinder and see if it turns smoothly or not.


There are a few really good threads/write-ups on doing the actuator replacement. Google that. It seems that I saw a good write-up on a Bronco site. There are a couple of decent YouTube videos that will point you the right direction.

 

Thanks for the input!!!

I took apart the column, and cleaned/lubed it all. The key now turns super smooth and the rod moves freely as well. It's non-tilt so I think the problematic piece is not in there. (I only disasembled like 75%, not fully).

Regardless, I tried manually flipping the ignition switch after removing it from the column, I get all dummy lights on and a fuel pump hum.

I'm thinking the NSS is out of adjustment or more likely shot. Going to go try wiggling wires, and trying to start truck in nuetral as we didn't try it the other day.

Need to test the starter solenoid too.

 

More efforts today. Tried adjusting NSS via Haynes manual. Nothing. It doesn't start in Neutral, Park, and the key won't turn in any other gear.

No reverse lights leads me to believe the NSS is dead. I had just started to try and test the starter solenoid with a multi-meter but it started raining.

Took the liberty of ordering a new Neutral Safety Switch, but would like to actually troubleshoot it.

Any input is welcome...