Ignition problems
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Ignition problems
So here's the deal. My truck is having an issue with the ignition switch. I've been having to jiggle the ignition a lot to get it to turn over. So I changed the ignition key switch and the starting solenoid on the firewall. Now it won't crank at all unless I remove the ignition and put it back in. Obviously it's a ground issue in the column. But how do I fix this?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 35
From: Virginia
Assuming you have checked the clutch/Park/Neutral safety start switch I think there is a pot-metal connector (Actuator) from the ignition switch to the key mechanism.
If it is a ground and if the ignition switch picks up its ground from its metal mounting tabs at the column, I do not see why you could not install a jumper from that tab to any good point.
If it is a ground and if the ignition switch picks up its ground from its metal mounting tabs at the column, I do not see why you could not install a jumper from that tab to any good point.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,554
Likes: 5,590
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
this could be one of two problems, either a failing actuator, or a bad iginion switch. i am going to bet on a separated ignition switch on this one.
the ignition switch is mounted ont he top of the steering column roughly above the brake pedal. what happens is the switch separates between the aluminum and plastic parts.
the ignition switch is mounted ont he top of the steering column roughly above the brake pedal. what happens is the switch separates between the aluminum and plastic parts.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Virginia
I had the same issue and it was the actuator in the column. I did'nt let mine go long since it would leave me when I needed it the most.
His post appears to indicate that he replaced the ignition switch, but I could be wrong
and he replaced the keyed tumbler mechanism that is sometimes referred to as the ignition switch 
His post appears to indicate that he replaced the ignition switch, but I could be wrong
and he replaced the keyed tumbler mechanism that is sometimes referred to as the ignition switch
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OK. The most likely problem is a small pot-metal/aluminum(not sure) actuator lever inside the steering column. It tends to break, preventing the key force from being transferred to the switch, so it won't go down into starting position.
You must remove the steering wheel and the column shroud to get access to it.
Easy fix: Get yourself a push-button switch, wire it from a source of power to the small terminal on the solenoid. Solves the problem, and lets you crank it in gear if you want.
Right fix: Buy the $12 part, pull the steering wheel, pull the shroud pieces and basically pull half the steering wheel apart until you get to it, then replace the part and put it back together.
You must remove the steering wheel and the column shroud to get access to it.
Easy fix: Get yourself a push-button switch, wire it from a source of power to the small terminal on the solenoid. Solves the problem, and lets you crank it in gear if you want.
Right fix: Buy the $12 part, pull the steering wheel, pull the shroud pieces and basically pull half the steering wheel apart until you get to it, then replace the part and put it back together.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,554
Likes: 5,590
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
the actuator is connected to the key cylinder and the rod that goes down to the ignition switch . the ignition switch is made out of an aluminum half and a plastic half. then the two parts separate, they cause all kinds of strange issues including having to wiggle the key to get the engine to start and stay running.
to test for a broken actuator, lower the steering column a bit and remove the ignition switch from the column. it is mounted with 2 7/16 head bolts.
with the switch out, use a screwdriver int he slot and move the switch. if the engine starts, the actuator is bad.
and by removing the switch, you can see if it is separated.
to test for a broken actuator, lower the steering column a bit and remove the ignition switch from the column. it is mounted with 2 7/16 head bolts.
with the switch out, use a screwdriver int he slot and move the switch. if the engine starts, the actuator is bad.
and by removing the switch, you can see if it is separated.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 12
From: Ford, WA
[QUOTE=Macrobb;15494214
Easy fix: Get yourself a push-button switch, wire it from a source of power to the small terminal on the solenoid. Solves the problem, and lets you crank it in gear if you want.
[/QUOTE]
I had an 84 bronco with a 300 I6/4 speed manual trans that had a setup like this.. the gear shifter was funky, thought I had it in neutral, hit the button and it started in gear and almost drove into my house.. right after that incident that button was ripped out, the wiring repaired, and the ign. switch replaced!
I would strongly advise the OP to NOT do the "Easy fix"..
Easy fix: Get yourself a push-button switch, wire it from a source of power to the small terminal on the solenoid. Solves the problem, and lets you crank it in gear if you want.
[/QUOTE]
I had an 84 bronco with a 300 I6/4 speed manual trans that had a setup like this.. the gear shifter was funky, thought I had it in neutral, hit the button and it started in gear and almost drove into my house.. right after that incident that button was ripped out, the wiring repaired, and the ign. switch replaced!
I would strongly advise the OP to NOT do the "Easy fix"..
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 35
From: Virginia
It appears the op replaced the tumbler and not the switch. Sometimes when a key is worn you have to jiggle the "switch" in order to be able to turn the key and start the vehicle. Unfortunately, our trucks have that nasty ol' actuator and, if you are not accurately observing the problem, it could be mistaken for the tumbler or the switch; maybe even the solenoid.