I was going down the freeway today and the engine died.
I pulled into the right lane and put it in neutral and tried to restart it.
No luck, I pulled into the emergency lane, with my flashers on.
I called AAA.
Incident response came by and put some flares out behind me.
AAA arrived and towed me home, in less than 10 minutes (a first for me).

I ordered an ignition switch from a Ford truck dealer and they called me an hour later, saying the switch was in.

I was able to start the truck again to put it in the driveway.
It ran pretty rough but that may have been from excess fuel, from trying to start it several times.

I'll put the new switch in tomorrow and see if that was the problem.
I'll also follow the instructions given here for adjusting the switch.
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Just a heads-up, the easiest way of installing that thing is to drop the column down a bit - tis a bit of work, but nothing hard, just screws and bolts, all come out and then go back in nice. I always pack the new switch with dielectric grease, this way it slides smooth, and it actually does make a difference in the feel at the tumbler.

 

how do you know it's the ignition switch.ie could be ignition module getting hot,fuel pump,fuel injection?we need details on the truck.

 

Ya know, he does have a good point - the TFI module will die just like that, it's heat related and a well-known problem. A worn out switch usually cuts out after you hit a bump, and can often be wiggled back to where it works... The others are suspect too, not too likely as they do give forewarnings, but suspect nevertheless.

 

I usually have to turn the lock back after starting, so the Instrument lights and turnsignals work.
I figured the switch needed replacing and $22 was a cheap start.
I've only driven it about 8 miles today, after having an agile younger friend install the new one for me.

I'm not discounting something else, just wanted to start with something that felt like it needed replacing.

I used di-electric grease on the contacts but forgot to put some on the sliding mechanism.

I'll drive it a few miles locally and see if it is cured.

I still ned to get my kickdown cable replaced.
It has some broken strands on the transmission end and flexes a lot, requiring a lot of foot pressure.
It makes me drive like an old man.
Oh, that's right, I am an old man.

 

I started it today and it immediately shook real hard and died.
I couldn't re-start it.

It did this yesterday and my friend said ot sounded like a broken motor mount. Son't see any signs of this, though.
Is the TFI module the box that the distributor connects to?

 

The TFI module was not used before 1983, and not all the trucks have it after 1983.

The TFI module bolts to the dizzy using TORX headed screws.

You need a thin TORX driver to get those fracatta screws off.

The TFI module is a well known POS.

Ford was forced by the NHTSB to recall FIVE MILLION cars/trucks in the 1990's to replace the little darling =

E43Z12A297A .. Ignition Module (Motorcraft DY425) / Marked: E3EF-12A297-A1A / E3EF-12A297-A2A.
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The DuraSpark module is bolted to the left fender inner apron just in front of the firewall on 1980/86's.

Bolted further back and down (away from the HOT left exhaust manifold on V8's!) on the left fender apron after 1986.

Engine heat is the mortal enemy of both these modules.

The three step scenario of a failing ignition module:

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost immediatly.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts in an hour...or so,

3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.

When replacing the module bolted to the left fender inner apron, use some washers to space it further out.

The more airflow around the little darlin' ...the better.

 

I just looked at what I think it is--The MCU, with PN E3TF-12A651-D1A

I looked at NAPA's site and don't know if any of theirs would work.

I called Autozone and theirs is a 2 connector, mine is 3.

 

is this what it looks like.

 

I'll look at it again tomorrow.
It has a bracket over it, with another electrical modeule of some sort sitting on top of it.

I'll take a picture and try to post it.

 

You Have a 4.9L (300) inline six right?

The MCU is the Microcomputer control unit. Although it can fail, it does not control the primary ignition, only the timing advance.

Here is a picture of mine on my 1981. You will want to replace the Duraspark ignition module underneath the MCU.




It wouldn't hurt to run a computer diagnostic on the MCU, to see if any of the sensors or switches are malfunctioning.

 

This is what I found.
How do I identify the part number for purchase at NAPA, Autozone, Motorcraft etc.?

 

I'm having difficulty attaching the pictures.

Yes, it's a 4.9L six '83

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1509

 

Just ask them for a duraspark II module for a 1983 Ford 300 inline six.

You can have the duraspark II module tested at most autoparts stores.

The part you need is under the MCU module.

The MCU module itself is obsolete and not avaliable anywhere except the wreckers.

 

There could be more than one ignition module. It depends on several factors: emissions, CA only, high altitude, etc.

If it's a Motorcraft module, it will have an ID number on it.

Where the wires feed out from the module, is a colored plastic square.

Most autoparts stores, all FoMoCo dealers can ID modules this way.
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Very common 1976 and later DuraSpark ignition module:

BLUE plastic square / Marked: D8VE-12A199-A1B, or -A2B, or -A1C, or -A2C.

1U2Z12A199AA .. Ignition Module (Motorcraft DY893) / 1U2Z-12A199-AA replaced D9VZ-12A199-A

MSRP: $113.62 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $61.36.