Timing marks: do they equal one degree or two?
#2
06-26-2013, 02:52 PM
Post Fiend
15 degrees isn't too much initial advance (IF, you're running ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum), in fact, 15 degrees is probably not enough advance for your particular motor, just be sure that whatever advance you add on the front end (initial) you subtract an equal amount on the back end (mechanical), you don't want to exceed 36-38 total.
On a hi-po motor you want as much initial advance as you can get on the crank and the least amount from the mechanical advance in the distributor, e.g. 18-24 degrees initial timing on the crank and 12-20 degrees of mechanical advance in the distributor to obtain your total of 36-38 degrees of total timing.
You need advance at low rpm to make the engine pull hard, it'll have much better throttle response, a better idle vacuum signal, and it'll run cooler & cleaner.
(the timing marks equal 2 degrees btw)
On a hi-po motor you want as much initial advance as you can get on the crank and the least amount from the mechanical advance in the distributor, e.g. 18-24 degrees initial timing on the crank and 12-20 degrees of mechanical advance in the distributor to obtain your total of 36-38 degrees of total timing.
You need advance at low rpm to make the engine pull hard, it'll have much better throttle response, a better idle vacuum signal, and it'll run cooler & cleaner.
(the timing marks equal 2 degrees btw)
#3
06-26-2013, 03:52 PM
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Location: Decatur, Georgia, US of A
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15 degrees isn't too much initial advance (IF, you're running ported vacuum and not manifold vacuum), in fact, 15 degrees is probably not enough advance for your particular motor, just be sure that whatever advance you add on the front end (initial) you subtract an equal amount on the back end (mechanical), you don't want to exceed 36-38 total.
On a hi-po motor you want as much initial advance as you can get on the crank and the least amount from the mechanical advance in the distributor, e.g. 18-24 degrees initial timing on the crank and 12-20 degrees of mechanical advance in the distributor to obtain your total of 36-38 degrees of total timing.
You need advance at low rpm to make the engine pull hard, it'll have much better throttle response, a better idle vacuum signal, and it'll run cooler & cleaner.
(the timing marks equal 2 degrees btw)
On a hi-po motor you want as much initial advance as you can get on the crank and the least amount from the mechanical advance in the distributor, e.g. 18-24 degrees initial timing on the crank and 12-20 degrees of mechanical advance in the distributor to obtain your total of 36-38 degrees of total timing.
You need advance at low rpm to make the engine pull hard, it'll have much better throttle response, a better idle vacuum signal, and it'll run cooler & cleaner.
(the timing marks equal 2 degrees btw)
#4
06-26-2013, 04:06 PM
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#5
06-26-2013, 05:08 PM
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I just took it to about 17-18 and took it around the block. Highboy, you're right, the throttle response was better and crisper. No pinging. Idle set at about 600 and it seems to like that.
#6
06-26-2013, 11:58 PM
Post Fiend
Your motor will usually let you know when you've advanced the timing too far, the starter will struggle to turn the engine over, especially when hot, if you reach this point you've gone too far, back off a few degrees.
Just remember, when you add more initial advance on the crank you need to limit the mechanical advance in the distributor an equal amount, otherwise, the motor will start to ping well before the mechanical advance is "all in" around 3,000 rpms.
#7
06-27-2013, 12:42 PM
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You can run as much initial advance as the motor will tolerate (up to a certain point) just be sure to listen for detonation (pinging), if you hear it, back off in 2 degree increments until it goes away.
Your motor will usually let you know when you've advanced the timing too far, the starter will struggle to turn the engine over, especially when hot, if you reach this point you've gone too far, back off a few degrees.
Just remember, when you add more initial advance on the crank you need to limit the mechanical advance in the distributor an equal amount, otherwise, the motor will start to ping well before the mechanical advance is "all in" around 3,000 rpms.
Your motor will usually let you know when you've advanced the timing too far, the starter will struggle to turn the engine over, especially when hot, if you reach this point you've gone too far, back off a few degrees.
Just remember, when you add more initial advance on the crank you need to limit the mechanical advance in the distributor an equal amount, otherwise, the motor will start to ping well before the mechanical advance is "all in" around 3,000 rpms.
Could this be related to the timing??? It feels like what the ignition coil did when it failed, but of course I have a brand new one on there now and it's just fine.
Distributor itself is cheap junk from Autozone.
Flummoxed.
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#9
06-27-2013, 03:15 PM
Post Fiend
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