setting up ignition timing
#1
setting up ignition timing
Hey guys...i need sum info on setting up the timing on my 69 302...now i no there are 2 kinds of timing that make up the total timing. Stop bushing and initial. My question is I need to get to 41 degrees of total advance...im guessing thats a black stop bushing (28 degrees) with (1) light blue and (1) light silver spring to set my mechanical advance set up. I think that maxes out the timing at around 3200 rpm...Im running a 3000 stall so that should be in the right place. So with having that 28 degrees of bushing timing i need 13 degrees of initial. Which way do i turn that distributor?!?!?!!?!!??!
#2
The only way to tell is if you adjust the distributor as the engine is running while you illuminate the damper markings...
At idle...if you move the timing closer to 0 degrees BTDC it should land you closer to your goal.....keep in mind though....advancing the timing will usually add some ping into the mix...
instead of focusing on a set number....adjust the initial (idle) timing ....continue to incrimentally advance the timing until you hear a ping.....(When the engine is at full load, the vacuum advance should get you to the point where the engine does ping)....then back initial timing 1-2 degress and retest under full load the ping should be gone.
This way you have the best performance without running the risk of ruining the pistons on your small block.
cheers
At idle...if you move the timing closer to 0 degrees BTDC it should land you closer to your goal.....keep in mind though....advancing the timing will usually add some ping into the mix...
instead of focusing on a set number....adjust the initial (idle) timing ....continue to incrimentally advance the timing until you hear a ping.....(When the engine is at full load, the vacuum advance should get you to the point where the engine does ping)....then back initial timing 1-2 degress and retest under full load the ping should be gone.
This way you have the best performance without running the risk of ruining the pistons on your small block.
cheers
Last edited by Capone; 02-18-2004 at 03:17 PM.
#3
#4
Why do want 48* advance?, if you don't mind me asking.
What type of distributor do have?, most distributors will only allow about max 12* vaccume advance and 20* mechanical advance, but maybe a small block up to 28*.
There are three components (or kinds of timing) to this mix.
Initial timing, the timing you look at with the motor at idle with the vacuum advance plugged, say 10*.
Mechanical advance were the springs and weights bring on advance as rpm increses. This is added to the initial timing say 20*. So 30*@ 3000 rpm is 10*+ 20* = 30* this is set with vacuum line plugged running at 3000 rpm.
Finally, vacuum advance were the 12* is played in and out as vacuum incresces and decresces.
So 10*+20*= 30* advance @ 3000 rpm + 12* at full vacuum (cruseing) gives you 42*.
You figure all this on your motor or take the distributor down to a shop and they can tell you what you have.
What type of distributor do have?, most distributors will only allow about max 12* vaccume advance and 20* mechanical advance, but maybe a small block up to 28*.
There are three components (or kinds of timing) to this mix.
Initial timing, the timing you look at with the motor at idle with the vacuum advance plugged, say 10*.
Mechanical advance were the springs and weights bring on advance as rpm increses. This is added to the initial timing say 20*. So 30*@ 3000 rpm is 10*+ 20* = 30* this is set with vacuum line plugged running at 3000 rpm.
Finally, vacuum advance were the 12* is played in and out as vacuum incresces and decresces.
So 10*+20*= 30* advance @ 3000 rpm + 12* at full vacuum (cruseing) gives you 42*.
You figure all this on your motor or take the distributor down to a shop and they can tell you what you have.
#5
Well rite now i have the original points style distributor in it, i am looking at a mollory unlite breakerless distributor. From what i have read/seen, to get such a number as 41* advance you use a black stop bushing which yields 28* advance, use a light blue spring and light silver spring to get the mechanical advance to wind up to max around 3000 rpm, and then set the initial timing to 13 degrees giving a total of 41*. Have u heard ne such thing be4 or nething of wut Capone has posted?
#6
Capone's proceedure is correct for the trial and error method. I'm more prone to the procedure of a dristributor machine curve method, set it and be done and play from there.
Take it for what it worth but everything I've read that anything more than 38* ignition lead can be disasterous.
I gather that your looking at upgrading to the Mallery. So if it's giving you 28*(with this bushing), set it at 38* @ 3000 rpm and it will be at 10* when it comes back to idle and you'd be safe there.
I'd still have the advance curve dialed in by a reputable shop to be sure.
Take it for what it worth but everything I've read that anything more than 38* ignition lead can be disasterous.
I gather that your looking at upgrading to the Mallery. So if it's giving you 28*(with this bushing), set it at 38* @ 3000 rpm and it will be at 10* when it comes back to idle and you'd be safe there.
I'd still have the advance curve dialed in by a reputable shop to be sure.
#7
i dont know what you guys are are doing but in all the small block fords ive ever built i've never heard of one running 48 degr adv. my last personal hot rod was a built 351C with a mallory unilite dist. mech. adv and it ran 34 degr total adv and i had it all in by 2800 rpm, and it would scream. at 48 degr you would be in some serious preignition. DW
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#8
ya i am thinkin about either the mallory or an msd dist. and i think its the bronze drive gear you need with a steel camshaft, RIGHT??? What does everyone think about the ignition control units? I have an msd 6a on my truck but it didnt really seem to help that much. It was loud and slow be4, loud and slow now???
#9
Originally posted by longjohn69mustong
ya i am thinkin about either the mallory or an msd dist. and i think its the bronze drive gear you need with a steel camshaft, RIGHT??? What does everyone think about the ignition control units? I have an msd 6a on my truck but it didnt really seem to help that much. It was loud and slow be4, loud and slow now???
ya i am thinkin about either the mallory or an msd dist. and i think its the bronze drive gear you need with a steel camshaft, RIGHT??? What does everyone think about the ignition control units? I have an msd 6a on my truck but it didnt really seem to help that much. It was loud and slow be4, loud and slow now???
#10
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