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Leak at turbo pedastal - Help

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Old 06-02-2012, 10:10 PM
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Leak at turbo pedastal - Help

I just developed a small oil leak under turbo on pedastal. Guessing ebp rod O-ring as oil is on pass. side of pedastal. I am also going to replace all o-rings while I have the turbo out & new cac boots & do the frx .Also gonna delete the ebpv and plug the port. Any advice or tips on the turbo removal would be appreciated as this will be my first time. Or if anybody has a link with pics that would be great. I have right at 99 k on truck so it's due for o-rings anyway.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:20 PM
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Clay has an article le on his site for that.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:25 PM
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Best advice I can give you after doing this several times is get yourself set up to be able to comfortably work and lift/lower the turbo into position. I built a top side creeper for the job, made it a lot easier. You have to be able to lower that 30 lb turbo into position while being careful not to push your pedestal o rings out of position while at the same time engaging the EBPV actuator, and laying on a padded, stationary surface makes it a lot easier. It is also a lot easier lining up the collector with a topside creeper. Lining up the collector is a lot easier if you get the manifold to up pipe bolts really loose. In order to access the passenger side manifold bolts the first time I pulled my wheel liner, the second time I just cut part of it away to get my socket in there.

And PB Blaster on the manifold bolts will help a lot.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by woodnthings
Clay has an article le on his site for that.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...structions.pdf
That's the article I was looking for - Thanks Ken
Originally Posted by bigb56
Best advice I can give you after doing this several times is get yourself set up to be able to comfortably work and lift/lower the turbo into position. I built a top side creeper for the job, made it a lot easier. You have to be able to lower that 30 lb turbo into position while being careful not to push your pedestal o rings out of position while at the same time engaging the EBPV actuator, and laying on a padded, stationary surface makes it a lot easier. It is also a lot easier lining up the collector with a topside creeper. Lining up the collector is a lot easier if you get the manifold to up pipe bolts really loose. In order to access the passenger side manifold bolts the first time I pulled my wheel liner, the second time I just cut part of it away to get my socket in there.

And PB Blaster on the manifold bolts will help a lot.
That is good advice about the creeper for sure. I spent a little time up there today just looking around for leaks & it's not much fun. An old couch cushion helped out some. Thanks for the help !
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:24 PM
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If you have 1/4" extensions (long ones) it makes the job go easy. I always use a small electric impact driver or drill driver. That way I get all the nuts on the clamps loose and out of the way. Having done it enough times I can now have the turbo out in about 20-30 minutes. When you take it apart, look at how things are lined up. When you put it back together, line up the clamps so they are easy to get at. That will help in the long run.

Definitively loosen the up-pipe to manifold bolts! Very helpful in getting the collector off and back on!
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:48 AM
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Couple things that surprised me was how hard the marmon clamps were to remove and the pure weight of the thing.. Might need a friend to help get the turbo off, And even better if he could help put it back on.
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 04:11 PM
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Thanks for the tips guys - Was wondering-1- Do I have to remove the whole pedastal to eliminate the ebpv & plug the port for same ? 2- Are turbo & pedastal 2 different pieces ? Looking at it in the truck it looks like they may come out seperately,but I could'nt tell for sure.
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:09 PM
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yes 2 pcs. The pedestal is a piece of cake to remove, plus theres 2 orings between the pedestal and block you will want to change, just like the 2 orings between the pedestal and turbo.
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:02 PM
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Ok - Thanks Again Bigb56 -
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb56
You have to be able to lower that 30 lb turbo into position while being careful not to push your pedestal o rings out of position
What I did to help myself out on this portion of the install because it was such a PITA after I cleaned all the oil off of everything I took a couple dabs of gasket maker on the orings when I put them in place just to help insure they wouldnt move, and it worked flawlessly
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:46 PM
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I did all my o-rings just as maintenance before something would happen. I did injector o-rings as well and glad I did.

 
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:51 PM
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One word... PB Blaster... Everything for several days before you start.
 
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
What I did to help myself out on this portion of the install because it was such a PITA after I cleaned all the oil off of everything I took a couple dabs of gasket maker on the orings when I put them in place just to help insure they wouldnt move, and it worked flawlessly
Good idea - Thanks

Originally Posted by Snowseeker
I did all my o-rings just as maintenance before something would happen. I did injector o-rings as well and glad I did.
How many miles on those injector o-rings ?
Originally Posted by CSIPSD
One word... PB Blaster... Everything for several days before you start.
Will do - Thanks
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:59 AM
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Another look at just the pedistal.
 
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:31 AM
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Dan - Nice pic - Thanks - That is about what mine looked like (What I could see of it) With the oil on the base. In your pic on the bottom left -Is that the plunger port that I will plug for the ebpv ?
 
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