turbo removal
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 947
Likes: 1
turbo removal
I'm going to attempt to take out my turbo this weekend and replace the o-rings and try to find my oil leak. I've read from kris that it isn't that bad of a job but i have never done it before. Is there anything i should know or specialty tools i will need or tips/advice any one has for me? Thanks for your help
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,956
Likes: 0
From: Northeast TN
It's not to bad at all. The hardest part for me was removing the marmon clamp from the up-pipe collector. Check your EBPV actuator to make sure that it's not leaking before you start. I took my buddies turbo off to change his o-rings, only to find out that it was the EBPV rod.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,137
Likes: 41
From: Marble Falls, Texas
I'll try to remember what I can....
First, remove both Marmon clamps from the uppipes, and the down pipe. Get those broke loose. I found for the up pipe collector, I had to use a pry bar and tap it with a hammer to get it broke loose. You definately don't what to be messin with that with the turbo loose.
Next, take all the connections from the front of the spider off.
Next, take the intake spider and intake tubes off. Plug all holes with rags.
Next, remove the EBPV arm from the butterfly assembly under the exhaust side of the turbo. Slide the little collar back twards the pedistal, and you should be able to just lower the rod off the ball.
Next, take the 2 13mm?? bolts out the top of the center section of the turbo. At this point you should be able to remove the turbo. Next, take out the 10mm bolts in the 4 corners of the pedistal and remove it.
Going back together...
Pedistal to block orings
Pedistal and 4 10mm bolts
Turbo to pedistal orings *****be sure to oil all the orings before install.*****
Turbo and bolts Be sure the pin lines up on the up pipe collector.
EBPV rod back on ball
Marmon clamps for DP and Up pipes.
install spider and all connections.
Intake tube
That should get you close, I'm sure there is something I forgot.
First, remove both Marmon clamps from the uppipes, and the down pipe. Get those broke loose. I found for the up pipe collector, I had to use a pry bar and tap it with a hammer to get it broke loose. You definately don't what to be messin with that with the turbo loose.
Next, take all the connections from the front of the spider off.
Next, take the intake spider and intake tubes off. Plug all holes with rags.
Next, remove the EBPV arm from the butterfly assembly under the exhaust side of the turbo. Slide the little collar back twards the pedistal, and you should be able to just lower the rod off the ball.
Next, take the 2 13mm?? bolts out the top of the center section of the turbo. At this point you should be able to remove the turbo. Next, take out the 10mm bolts in the 4 corners of the pedistal and remove it.
Going back together...
Pedistal to block orings
Pedistal and 4 10mm bolts
Turbo to pedistal orings *****be sure to oil all the orings before install.*****
Turbo and bolts Be sure the pin lines up on the up pipe collector.
EBPV rod back on ball
Marmon clamps for DP and Up pipes.
install spider and all connections.
Intake tube
That should get you close, I'm sure there is something I forgot.
you can't fix stupid!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,906
Likes: 2
^^^^ good instructions!
the 2 bolts that hold down the turbo are 1/2" not 13mm though. just thought id throw that out there. definitely spray the v-band clamp on the up pipe to turbo with some lube to help you....
the 2 bolts that hold down the turbo are 1/2" not 13mm though. just thought id throw that out there. definitely spray the v-band clamp on the up pipe to turbo with some lube to help you....
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
1/2"= 12.7mm, i dont think the bolt will know a difference.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Marble Falls, Texas
I use my topside creeper.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,241
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From: Powder Springs, East TN
Be sure to grab all tools 
. I'll get the o-rings tomorrow from the stealership and we'll drive into it. I have took it appart a little when we did the WW but never had it completely out. We'll have fun .
. I'll get the o-rings tomorrow from the stealership and we'll drive into it. I have took it appart a little when we did the WW but never had it completely out. We'll have fun .
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,767
Likes: 1
I used this my 1st time http://www.dieselinnovations.com/tec...structions.pdf
I likey likey pictures. As to the two bolts holding the turbo, use 3/8" drive 1/2" deep. It will really help on the back bolt. Don't over tighten. You will be kicking yourself if you strip the pedestal. Coat the o-rings with Vaseline, lay them in the grooves, and then lay a coat of Vaseline over them. This will help you from dislodging or nicking one. Moving blankets and dog pads are your friend. That hood latch sux. Even with the padding always remember your coolant tank. It and it's mounts are plastic. I turn a little leaning on the A/C or Starter. Which are also good places for your elbows when turning/rotating that beotch out of the valley. I printed out the link above, put in in page protectors and a 3 ring binder. Set by step with pictures.....
I likey likey pictures. As to the two bolts holding the turbo, use 3/8" drive 1/2" deep. It will really help on the back bolt. Don't over tighten. You will be kicking yourself if you strip the pedestal. Coat the o-rings with Vaseline, lay them in the grooves, and then lay a coat of Vaseline over them. This will help you from dislodging or nicking one. Moving blankets and dog pads are your friend. That hood latch sux. Even with the padding always remember your coolant tank. It and it's mounts are plastic. I turn a little leaning on the A/C or Starter. Which are also good places for your elbows when turning/rotating that beotch out of the valley. I printed out the link above, put in in page protectors and a 3 ring binder. Set by step with pictures.....
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 0
From: Bloomfield Hills, MI
Couple important things to remember -
- PB Blaster on the up pipe v clamp. Getting it back on is a PITA (to say the least) but just make sure you have a few beers
- PUT SHOP RAGS IN THE TURBO UPPIPE and Y PIPE CONNECTIONS!!!!!!
Take your time, the first time took me around 3-4 hours. I got it down to 45minutes or less with the right tools. It helps to have power tools, im a little bit ghetto and settlefor all hand tools. Lack of a proper setup at our warehouse
- PB Blaster on the up pipe v clamp. Getting it back on is a PITA (to say the least) but just make sure you have a few beers
- PUT SHOP RAGS IN THE TURBO UPPIPE and Y PIPE CONNECTIONS!!!!!!
Take your time, the first time took me around 3-4 hours. I got it down to 45minutes or less with the right tools. It helps to have power tools, im a little bit ghetto and settlefor all hand tools. Lack of a proper setup at our warehouse
