For my '66 F250 4X4 I have a Dana 44 HD front axle I plan to swap in place of the original small hub axle. The only problem that I have run into is that the hole for the drag link in the steering arm is too big. Does somebody make a tapered bushing to size it down? Any other ideas?

 

Have it TIG welded up and re-reamed to the correct 7 degree Taper. This is not an area where you want potential play with a bushing.

Garbz

 

How do you ream it to the 7 degree taper?

 

You use a 7 degree reamer chucked up in a Bridgeport or similar Mill or a 1/2" drill Press. The machine shop that does the welding should have a taper ream and fit the end tot he arm. It is not something you do by hand. You can but it is a bear keeping at 90 degrees.

Speedway Tapered Ball Joint Reamer, 7 Degree - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Ford uses 7 degrees for ball joints and tie rods.


Garbz

 

Being a welder myself, I have trouble with laying that much heat in the limited area of a steering knuckle steering arm. Although it is made out of cast steel and very weldable, I'm just not comfortable with it, but that's just me. People weld on them all the time.
I'd build a new draglink with the proper ends for the knuckle arm and the pitman arm.
You can also look into a tie rod flip kit such as this,
Teraflex 4923300 HD Tie Rod Flip Kit Upgrade

 

I have found a place that has a N.O.S. steering arm for the HD axle under a '66 for $150. I will probably go with this.

 

The arm is forged steel. Forged arms and forged axles are heated cherry red all the time and allowed to cool with no detrimental effect. The steering arm on the D44 is the upper Bearing trunnion.

Garbz

 

You're right on all counts and I misspoke when I said "cast".
My personal preference is to never weld on a steering knuckle. This is for liability reasons.

 

Agree,

Hence have a shop do it as they take the liability.

Garbz