Door Panel Repair
#16
Oh yea me either buddy, I'll just get new one's before I screw mount'm. I hate to see in the JY a awesome panel sent to its death by the dreaded (idiot with a screw gun mount trick).
Till I get a red truck in a whole lot better shape that ol red, I will let these set in the shop, to bad you truck is so unique (I like it) a color instead of red???
And here are a few paint/fix up ideas, I think the diamond plate might be rough on the elbows but you could pull off the screw mount trick on that stuff.
And now they have diamond plate in different colors....... or maybe a brushed stainless panel instead?
Wire wheel and clear coat a aluminum panel for a different route?
Till I get a red truck in a whole lot better shape that ol red, I will let these set in the shop, to bad you truck is so unique (I like it) a color instead of red???
And here are a few paint/fix up ideas, I think the diamond plate might be rough on the elbows but you could pull off the screw mount trick on that stuff.
And now they have diamond plate in different colors....... or maybe a brushed stainless panel instead?
Wire wheel and clear coat a aluminum panel for a different route?
#17
I think epoxy will hold up fine once the panels are on but removed again and the tabs will probaby break. I hate removing panels because the proper tool is even hard to get right on the tab plus trying not to scratch the paint on the door. I have something loose in my door that rattles and i have been putting it off cuz i dont even want to remove the panel.
#18
#19
I ended up getting some 1/8 thick nylon washers and just ground them to fit on the bench grinder. I had some automotive panel fasteners also and stuck them through the center hole.
My panels had solid holes instead of the slots so I used a utility knife to create the slot and just slid them under what was left of the original bracket. They actually kind of locked themselves into place and the washer acted as a spacer to push them up against the original broken piece.
Worked perfectly... at least this time around.
My panels had solid holes instead of the slots so I used a utility knife to create the slot and just slid them under what was left of the original bracket. They actually kind of locked themselves into place and the washer acted as a spacer to push them up against the original broken piece.
Worked perfectly... at least this time around.
#20
The first test was on a air line at work, it sealed up a cut in the rubber hose like it was nothing.
Then i just got done applying it to the cracks in some used door panels i have, and once again this stuff is amazing, really glad i purchased some.
#21
Door Panel repair
I did a search and got some answers from an old thread.
I am looking for a way to repair some broken tabs on the door panels. Powerstrokeryan said he "milled new plastic tabs then plastic welded them". If you are still out there, I would like to know how you welded the new tabs and are they still holding?
I liked grinnergetters idea of plastic washers behind the fastener.
Any other ideas? I may try the Rapid fix Trans Steer which was also referenced in the thread.
I do not think ABS glue is the answer.
Thanks
I am looking for a way to repair some broken tabs on the door panels. Powerstrokeryan said he "milled new plastic tabs then plastic welded them". If you are still out there, I would like to know how you welded the new tabs and are they still holding?
I liked grinnergetters idea of plastic washers behind the fastener.
Any other ideas? I may try the Rapid fix Trans Steer which was also referenced in the thread.
I do not think ABS glue is the answer.
Thanks
#22
I just over hauled these....and added the red pieces. They have the thin chrome strip that I want and was worried the chrome mount lock tabs would break being relocated to another set.
2 part epoxy on one and JB weld on the other we'll see what holds up, report to follow. And use the GM pieces they are longer than the Ford. Also going to use some 2" velcro as back up to keep in place.
I notched the place the 2 bolt heads hit the panel and hold it out a bit. No worries the door finger cup covers it, notch away Mr Dremel. And I did a metal over lay to reinforce the area that the 2 screws go thru that always breaks.
Yes looks like hell, so we'll see. Also doing a metal finger cup swap in, and I am not using these metal ones anymore. At least if I have to I can hack saw blade thru the plastic push pins to remove the door panel later.
2 part epoxy on one and JB weld on the other we'll see what holds up, report to follow. And use the GM pieces they are longer than the Ford. Also going to use some 2" velcro as back up to keep in place.
I notched the place the 2 bolt heads hit the panel and hold it out a bit. No worries the door finger cup covers it, notch away Mr Dremel. And I did a metal over lay to reinforce the area that the 2 screws go thru that always breaks.
Yes looks like hell, so we'll see. Also doing a metal finger cup swap in, and I am not using these metal ones anymore. At least if I have to I can hack saw blade thru the plastic push pins to remove the door panel later.
#24
#25
I've read through this thread a couple of times and when I get to grinners post #19 the same thought comes to mind. Why dont you try using a C clip or make a plastic C clip. It appears that the panel clips that your using have a compressable washer. If they do then either a c clip or a clip similar to the one that holds the door lock cylinder in place should work. It may still need that putty like glue to hold them together but it should work. May mean a trip to psycoplaths fastener store and who knows how dangerous that can be LOL. May work, may not, but if your still looking for a solution it may be worth a try.
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