Howdy all!
I just got the 3M headlight restoration kit.
My questions are:
Can I easily take the trim off from around the headlight (key word being "easy")?
Also (for those who may know), the directions say you are spose to use a "drill" that spins from 1200-1800rpm(?). I have a Dewalt 2 speed and 3 speed cordless drill. What speed is 1, 2 and 3?
Anything else I may need to know before I engage this operation?
Thanks!

 

No you can't "easily" remove the trim, but I think I would. Open hood, remove all of the screws on the top of headlight doors (that's what the trim is called) and the grille. Remove grille NOT the headlight doors. There are two (2) nuts (11mm or 7/16") on the back of each of the turnsignal lenses (the long light under the headlight) which hold the bottom of the headlight door (along w/ the turn signal & side marker lenses) to the headlight mounting panel. You may need to remove the batteries & trays depending on how well you can manuver your hands around in a tight area. The studs may unthread from the lens instead of the nuts coming off that's OK just grab the stud w/ locking pliers after all else is removed and then remove the nuts. IF the nuts won't come off make sure they will tighten so when you reinstall the headlight doors it will tighten up.
For the drill go to DeWalt's website & check the stats of your drill for the RPM settings. My $0.02

 

Thanks for responding, Wow! There really is no easy way to remove the "doors"
I could have looked up my 2nd question easy enough w/o asking (I spose I am subconsciously getting lazy, lol) so this is what I found: (
DEWALT Drill/Drivers | Find Tools and Accessories ): Max rpm 0-500/0-1,250/0-2,000 So 3rd gear is 0-2000 rpm.

Thanks for the lesson on the front end bueaty removal. I did not know it was going to be that "difficult".

 

I used that kit and didn't remove or mask off anything. It worked GREAT too!!! The stuff that splattered everywhere washed off easy so don't worry. Just follow the instructions. I learned you can't skip steps with it. Mine were so bad that I had to use two kits but they look like new now and cost me far less than new ones would have cost. I used an air powered angle drill with mine. It's supposed to run about 1000 RPM in high at 90 psi so I turned it up to 120 psi and that worked perfect. DO NOT use a die grinder. It will melt the plastic. My son found that out the hard way and we had to replace one of his headlights.

I had just enough left over out of the two kits to do a quicky polish on my taillights too. I only used the compound on them. They also look new now. For them it's best to take them off and rinse out the inside real good with soap and hot water. Then go to town with the polishing compound. It's amazing how much dirt gets inside them things. They lose their seal around the edges over time and this would also be a good time to fix that with some clear silicone if yours had junk inside.

 

For future reference

 

Good information thanks!
Is "THEM" the tail lights?

 

Subscribed for before and after pics.

 

WOW WEEE! That stuff works GRRRRRRREEEEAT!
I will get the pics off my phone Monday(ish). I may even have to wash the truck now, lol

 

I have been doing this for years with a little bit of wet sanding (1200) & 3 M buffing compound . If they are not goofed up on the inside , the outside is easy to fix ...