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I’m gonna copy and paste what I put in a different thread over here per a suggestion in a reply.
Ill start by saying, I’m trying to figure out the app and reply but when I hit “quote” is gives an option for a title. Like it’s not a reply, like a new post 🤷♂️ normal? Leave it blank?
Im not sure what brand parts were installed as it wasn’t my vehicle at the time of the work but since it was an insurance job id assume hopefully the parts were OEM.
Once I figure out this app better I’ll provide more information for sure.
I appreciate your knowledge and time in helping people with their rigs.
What i know now is the work was done in Portland Oregon but now the rig is in central Oregon and going to a highly recommended very reputable shop and I will know the goings on for future work.
Im no mechanic but im only 74% idiot so I can do some work. This is my first Diesel though. Yes, my profile hobbies say I enjoy arguing with people online. I’d go out on a limb and say the people I’m most likely to argue with drive a Prius with 100 stickers on the back not Diesel trucks. 🇺🇸
🖕Facebook. I don’t have one and don’t plan to.
Yeah, so uhhhh. Here’s the get down, I’ll post more later and it’s a pleasure meeting you guys in advance. Thanks for having me.
There has been over 28k in work done to my truck in the last 20k miles and it won’t start. Let me explain. My mother in law purchased this truck a couple years ago when it had like 85k on the ticker. Ran like a champ!! It got stolen because……well, Portland Oregon that’s why.🤷♂️ When we got it back it wouldn’t start. For some reason insurance decided it was a good idea to put 23k into this 18 Thousand dollar truck instead of totaling it out. HPFP, Injectors, Cylinder heads, stock head bolts (SMH) Fuel Injector pressure regulator, EGR Cooler, EGR Valve and everything in between that holds it together, batteries. that was at 99850 miles At 104883 miles new Turbocharger and everything with that. 105022 miles oil stand pipe and plug kit 106351 miles ANOTHER oil stand pipe and plug kit with a side of fuel tank sending unit and a starter. I’m gonna copy and paste what I put in a “what have you done thread over here.
To give a little background
Now it has 122,917 miles and the new shop told her she needs ANOTHER HPOP, another stand pipe, IPR valve and an oil flush, plus a bunch of other things totaling 7,100. Anyway she owed me a truck because I gave her one to start her business so she gave this to me 🤣😂🤣😂 I had to towed to my town and am now taking a deep dive into learning about the 6.0. Someone please throw me a life jacket!!! I’m drowning!!!! lol that’s all, end of story so 😁
I lived in Central Oregon (La Pine) for 6 years, great place! Also had a shop in Bend. Had to leave because it was starting to look like portland.
Anyways, these trucks are getting older and there are relatively few mechanics left working that are good at diagnosing them. The odds that your truck needs ANOTHER Standpipe set, HPOP, and IPR are impossibly high. Especially at 123k. Thats parts cannon diag by someone that doesn't understand 6.0. The fact that 3 sets of standpipes have been done or recommended in 15k says someone is not paying attention.
Are you fixing this yourself? If so, get Forscan, read the no start thread on this forum, charge the batteries and get us some cranking numbers.
As an aside, I recently put a truck back on the road that was a stolen recovery from portland. I guess if I had to say one good thing about portland, it would be that the crackhead thieves help keep the superduty parts cheap and plentiful. *********s.
I'll make a counterpoint; it may depend on where the HPOP came from since some rebuilders do a poor job, and standpipes, even from Ford, seem to have reliability issues lately. Aftermarket IPRs can be flakey, too. However, your issue may only be one of those, or in fact none, but something else.
This highly computer-controlled engine relies on sensors and has the added issue of injector control with high-pressure oil. You can't diagnose anything without good data and code reading. So, to start, the best method to do that and avoid starting down the wrong path is to use the Forscan and an OBD2 adapter for the OBD2 data port. It's the most cost-effective $50 you will ever spend.
A few good pictures of the engine bay could be helpful also. My initial concern with all those hands in there would be the many wire connections. Are they all present and snug? Any chafing or shoddy looking wire repairs?
A few good pictures of the engine bay could be helpful also. My initial concern with all those hands in there would be the many wire connections. Are they all present and snug? Any chafing or shoddy looking wire repairs?
I haven’t put my head all the way in there yet but I definitely plan to. I haven’t even gotten around to charging the batteries up yet. Figured it would be a good idea to join a forum full of knowledgeable people first and watch some videos before I roll my sleeves up. I’ll definitely get some good pics of the engine and post them later today.
*Hopefully I did this reply correctly
I lived in Central Oregon (La Pine) for 6 years, great place! Also had a shop in Bend. Had to leave because it was starting to look like portland.
Anyways, these trucks are getting older and there are relatively few mechanics left working that are good at diagnosing them. The odds that your truck needs ANOTHER Standpipe set, HPOP, and IPR are impossibly high. Especially at 123k. Thats parts cannon diag by someone that doesn't understand 6.0. The fact that 3 sets of standpipes have been done or recommended in 15k says someone is not paying attention.
Are you fixing this yourself? If so, get Forscan, read the no start thread on this forum, charge the batteries and get us some cranking numbers.
As an aside, I recently put a truck back on the road that was a stolen recovery from portland. I guess if I had to say one good thing about portland, it would be that the crackhead thieves help keep the superduty parts cheap and plentiful. *********s.
Yeah Bend definitely has a Portland/California feel to it now. Super unfortunate. Lucky for us we moved to a small town close to bend that hasn’t been completely overrun yet. You still see an old cowboy or two with an 6 shooter on their hip at the grocery store. My kind place!!!
Im most definitely gonna get myself a scanner. I got the shop receipts with their notes I’ll post on here once I get some time to dig em out in a bit. The 2nd shops nots are pretty detailed but they did say something about the screen in the HPOP. Yeah, I know…..lol
i appreciate the response 🙏🤙
Yeah Bend definitely has a Portland/California feel to it now. Super unfortunate. Lucky for us we moved to a small town close to bend that hasn’t been completely overrun yet. You still see an old cowboy or two with an 6 shooter on their hip at the grocery store. My kind place!!!
If it's not La Pine it sounds like Prineville.
Originally Posted by JimmyGunz
Im most definitely gonna get myself a scanner.
i appreciate the response 🙏🤙
For the ford ForScan or Forscan Lite, as recommend already, is your best bet. I have a pretty decent SnapOn Verus Pro (fancy name for an obsolete top of the line) scan tool and Forscan is usually easier to use.
A few good pictures of the engine bay could be helpful also. My initial concern with all those hands in there would be the many wire connections. Are they all present and snug? Any chafing or shoddy looking wire repairs?
Oil dip stick is broken 🤷♂️ This looks like it could plug into something maybe if it was a different model but it’s got a plug piece in it. Nipple off the intake has nothing plugged into it
Do you have the truck currently or is it at a shop?
Tell us exactly what is wrong with it ............. crank no-start perhaps? We need to know all you can tell us. I am guessing about the crank, no-start ONLY on the parts that you were told you need.
EDIT - I see in your first post that it won't start, so i assume that the crank sounds normal?
If you have the truck, then do as @TooManyToys. suggested and get FORScan and see what codes it can bring up.
You may be asked to post a video of it cranking, so we can hear what it sounds like.
You may also be told to run a pressure test on the high pressure oil system. You will need some tools and adapters to do that. We can help direct you on that when we know a bit more.
Is the current shop a dealership or an Indy (Independent) shop?
Have all the basics been checked (fuel filters , oil filter, oil level, air filter, oil flow filling the oil filter housing, fuel filling the secondary fuel filter housing, etc)?
Ultimately you may need to check compression in each cylinder. We can help w/ that also if/when the time comes.
Do you have the truck currently or is it at a shop?
Tell us exactly what is wrong with it ............. crank no-start perhaps? We need to know all you can tell us. I am guessing about the crank, no-start ONLY on the parts that you were told you need.
EDIT - I see in your first post that it won't start, so i assume that the crank sounds normal?
If you have the truck, then do as @TooManyToys. suggested and get FORScan and see what codes it can bring up.
You may be asked to post a video of it cranking, so we can hear what it sounds like.
You may also be told to run a pressure test on the high pressure oil system. You will need some tools and adapters to do that. We can help direct you on that when we know a bit more.
Is the current shop a dealership or an Indy (Independent) shop?
Have all the basics been checked (fuel filters , oil filter, oil level, air filter, oil flow filling the oil filter housing, fuel filling the secondary fuel filter housing, etc)?
Ultimately you may need to check compression in each cylinder. We can help w/ that also if/when the time comes.
I currently have the truck with me now. From what I understand it was a warm crank no start then wouldn’t start even after waiting a half hour but I’m uncertain because it was her employee driving it.
I’m hesitant about cranking this thing up currently and I’ll explain why. It was towed to the shop, they did initial inspection then dug to keep inspecting. I’ll provide their notes. She got frustrated and passed on the work without looking at what everything they were suggesting was unfortunately. Had we looked at it together I would have advised her to pass on the fluff and get the rig running instead she agreed to pay 1,800 for their digging and to button it up. I’m looking and although wires are plugged in from what I can see wire holders are not snapped in, they seem to be hanging loose in spots. I’m concerned perhaps bolt Ms may not be torqued to spec or any other number of things. Batteries are also dead dead so I need to go get them charged. I just took them out. The first paperwork drop will be what was done 20k miles ago when it was recovered from getting stolen. I was looking at the prices and I had sticker shock but it was Covid pricing. I guess some parts were hard to get so they were more expensive. 4k for some 1600 dollar heads though? 230 for 140 dollar batteries and 70 to install each definitely seems like a red flag to me although I’m not sure so I’m covering up the shop name because I don’t wanna slander someone when I don’t for sure know their messed up. It was also insurance money so perhaps that’s unfortunately the norm 🤷♂️
The second drop of paperwork will be what was being looked at and the new shop she went to’s findings and recommendations.
Good job getting the pics up. To me it looks pretty well cared for. Just a couple of things I am curious about. The coolant that they filled with would be nice to know. Also, could you reach up under the F.I.C.M. and verify that the 3 plugs will not pull out with a slight tug. Bismic will soon get you sorted out once you get Forscan. He and Toomanytoys are two of the best around here.
I see your paperwork says "Extended Life" coolant. Might be correct. Man that is a lot of variables/ new parts!
Do you have the truck currently or is it at a shop?
Tell us exactly what is wrong with it ............. crank no-start perhaps? We need to know all you can tell us. I am guessing about the crank, no-start ONLY on the parts that you were told you need.
EDIT - I see in your first post that it won't start, so i assume that the crank sounds normal?
If you have the truck, then do as @TooManyToys. suggested and get FORScan and see what codes it can bring up.
You may be asked to post a video of it cranking, so we can hear what it sounds like.
You may also be told to run a pressure test on the high pressure oil system. You will need some tools and adapters to do that. We can help direct you on that when we know a bit more.
Is the current shop a dealership or an Indy (Independent) shop?
Have all the basics been checked (fuel filters , oil filter, oil level, air filter, oil flow filling the oil filter housing, fuel filling the secondary fuel filter housing, etc)?
Ultimately you may need to check compression in each cylinder. We can help w/ that also if/when the time comes.
This 2nd paper work drop is what’s currently the issue.
This shop didn’t do any of the work they suggested and they no longer have the truck. I took all this paperwork to a reputable shop out here and so far the plan is to get it towed to their shop, have them take a look and hopefully get it running then I’ll be taking over from there for the most part with what I feel comfortable attempting.
03-23-2024, 10:51 PM
