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So my landscaping season is starting to slow down and I'm going to be putting my work truck down for some major repairs for a few days and figured while I have it all apart and I'm in there I might as well upgrade my transmission cooler since the trucks hooked to a trailer almost all year long. It's not a crazy heavy trailer, the trailer probably weights 8-9k loaded, and we don't live in an area that's mostly flat so it doesn't see any big long steep up grades, but figured it wouldn't hurt and also for the "what if" factor that one day I do have a heavy load up a long steep grade I'll be confident knowing I got the parts on the truck to get the job done. I know it's a pretty straight forward swap but my question is that I did a transmission cooler upgrade on my project OBS 7.3 (Not a 6.0 cooler as I wasn't sure If I could fit it with the intercooler) and for that I had run -6 AN stainless braided with -6 AN fittings I had bought that replaced the factory lines on the transmission which I will post a picture of below. That whole system was -6 AN which is equivalent to 3/8" which is what the stock system was, on this system I plan to install on the work truck I would like to do the same thing with the same fittings...just in -8 AN because -8 AN is the equivalent to 1/2" which is the size fittings on the 6.0 cooler, so I won't have to install an adapter fitting to adapt the 3/8" stock system to 1/2". I would also be by passing the radiator cooler portion of the stock transmission cooler system and only be using the 6.0 cooler in this system.
My only concern in doing this -8 AN system would be the fact that the whole system would be 1/2" right out of the transmission case and so I'd think the pressure would decrease as the size of the tube in which the fluid travels increased and that's just what basic physics proves. Part of me thinks this would actually be a benefit as the fluid would spend more time in the cooling system and result in an even colder transmission fluid temp upon return to the transmission then the 3/8 system would but I also am by no means an expert in transmissions so I don't know if this drop in pressure on the cooling lines would effect the transmission internally. That's my only real concern here is how the drop in the pressure of the cooling system for the transmission would effect the transmission itself.
If any one has any know how regarding this or has any input that would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Fittings that screw into the transmission case to adapt to AN. Picture of the system I ran on my project truck.
Arguably your tranny (5R110) is one of the best out there (unlike the many crappy E4ODs I've rebuilt)...................I'd pressure match everything keeping the AN sizing close to original to avoid "drops"., flow problems...........I just got "cute" upsizing a fuel line (6AN) to 8AN on an old Ford Commercial vehicle and had "drop" type issues..........
Trucks a 2wd SRW 96’ F350 7.3 Power Stroke. So it has the E4OD. Sorry bout that guys spent so much time making sure I covered my bases with what I wanted to do totally forgot to give any vehicle information.
Arguably your tranny (5R110) is one of the best out there (unlike the many crappy E4ODs I've rebuilt)...................I'd pressure match everything keeping the AN sizing close to original to avoid "drops"., flow problems...........I just got "cute" upsizing a fuel line (6AN) to 8AN on an old Ford Commercial vehicle and had "drop" type issues..........
Drop in fuel pressure is definitely an issue but I’m wondering if it really matters for the transmission cooler lines? At some point it’s going to be 1/2” because that’s the size of the transmission cooler hose barbs...and if I remember my physics class correctly the pressure is going to be based off the largest diameter part of a hose...but I could be remembering that wrong as I took it years ago.
There are a few things to consider and know.First off,the 6.0L trans cooler is overkill for your E4OD.In other words,if you need that much additional cooling,your WAY overloaded for the rating of your truck.
Secondly,disconnecting the radiator section of the trans cooling will be a reduction in cooling.When going slow,you'll only have the cooling of the engine fan to help cool.I remember Mark saying a few times they tried this in '99 and they ended up going right back to the radiator for the cooling again with an aux cooler.
The lines are in fact 5/16.Mark is correct.You can upgrade them very easily using the 4R100 bypass and some 3/8 brake line.All you need for an aux cooler is the tru-cool lpd47391.Put it in place of the oem aux cooler,which is after the radiator.
Ideal trans temps are 170-180F @ the test port.You'll have no issues at all maintaining very close to perfect temps with the setup and you wont have that massive 6.0 cooler actually reducing airflow (though to a small degree) to your radiator.
It's not that you can't use a 6.0l trans cooler in a 9th gen truck,it's just that if you actually ever required one,you would be ridiculously,dangerously and irresponsibly,grossly overweight.
That’s so weird that the lines are 5/16...I have a mishimoto radiator in the truck and had a leak right on one of the hose barbs and when I had contacted them as to what size they were thinking maybe I had too big a hose on there they told me it was a 3/8 barb. Perhaps the factory hard line is 5/16 and when it goes to the rubber hose it steps up to 3/8?
So you think if I by passed the radiator portion and went with the overkill 6.0 cooler I’d still have slow speed cooling issues? Even though you said it is a complete overkill of a cooler? Was also thinking of doing the 6.0 fan swap as well to get the increased CFM/weight reduction which should help cooling at a stand still.
I also was unaware there was an “ideal” transmission temperature. I figured the cooler you could keep the fluidcthe better off you’d be but guess not? Just curious if you had any more information on why this is so.
So you think if I by passed the radiator portion and went with the overkill 6.0 cooler I’d still have slow speed cooling issues?
Yes, you would still have low speed heat problems. Any air to oil cooler is next to useless without a good airflow. The fan clutch doesn't see enough of the heat off of the air to oil cooler, so it won't engage if the trans gets hot. Dumping the heat into the radiator will engage the fan clutch and keep both the trans and engine cool.
Originally Posted by 0500757Arf
I also was unaware there was an “ideal” transmission temperature. I figured the cooler you could keep the fluidcthe better off you’d be but guess not? Just curious if you had any more information on why this is so.
Yes, there is an ideal trans temp.For the E4OD that's about 170-180F.
Yes, you would still have low speed heat problems. Any air to oil cooler is next to useless without a good airflow. The fan clutch doesn't see enough of the heat off of the air to oil cooler, so it won't engage if the trans gets hot. Dumping the heat into the radiator will engage the fan clutch and keep both the trans and engine cool.
Yes, there is an ideal trans temp.For the E4OD that's about 170-180F.
That makes sense and hmm...didn't know that, figured just the cooler you can keep the fluid the better so long as the fluid is still warm enough for the converter to lock up.
What is your professional opinion since you seam to have quite a bit of knowledge on transmissions...
Is it worth a try to see if the 6.0 transmission cooler, the 6.0 fan, -8 AN (1/2") cooler lines right out the case, and then by-passing the radiator portion of the factory transmission cooler would work on account the 6.0 cooler is over kill for cooling from the start, the -8AN lines will hold more fluid and flow at a slower rate and spend more time in the cooler, and the 6.0 fan which has a higher CFM then the stock 7.3 one? Then just route the factory radiator portion back in if temperatures are getting to high in stand still.
Or should I just stick to the factory set up and just run the Tru-Cool LPD 47391 in place of the factory exterior cooler and keep the factory cooler lines?
I recommend keeping the radiator cooler. Any air to oil cooler is next to useless without a good airflow. The fan clutch doesn't see enough of the heat off of the air to oil cooler, so it won't engage if the trans gets hot. Dumping the heat into the radiator will engage the fan clutch and keep both the trans and engine cool.
Larger lines won't slow the flow through the cooler. In fact, it will speed up the flow through the cooler. The larger lines will have less restriction, so there will be more flow. More flow through the cooler means the fluid is moving faster. But more flow means more cooling.
Gotcha...so then the big question...to go with the Tru-Cool or the 6.0 Cooler? Looking at the true cool's specs it looks as if it would be plenty and then some for what I need it for as FORDF250HDXLT had stated earlier.
I just have no personal experience with the tru cool and can't find a whole mess of information about running one as you see everyone swear up and down by the 6.0 cooler swap and figured you might have experience being the transmission guru.
Well Tru-Cool it’s is then, gonna invest in one for my Silverado with all the money I saved over the mishimoto 6.0 cooler. Thanks for the help! Plumbing should be a breeze because as I found out today upon closer inspection the previous owner had installed a baby cooler already.
10-20-2018, 09:08 AM
