Pitman Arm and Steering Box
#1
Pitman Arm and Steering Box
Guys
Im going to be ordering a new steering box. OEM Motorcraft. I cant spend the money on a redhead.
So i cant count the splines on the current box or pitman arm with it on the truck. Way too tight in there.
So i got the factory part number off the pitman arm YC35-3590-AA. From what ive seen googling that part number its a 32 tooth. Can anyone verify this ?
Im replacing the pitman arm with the box so could i just order a 32 tooth box and pitman arm or a 36 tooth box and arm ?
Are there any difference between the 32 and the 36 ? Length ? Angle ? Etc. Is one more desirable than the other ?
Just want to make sure everything is correct before i remove and install as this my only transportation and do not have the option to wait on correct parts if the ones i get are wrong.
Im going to be ordering a new steering box. OEM Motorcraft. I cant spend the money on a redhead.
So i cant count the splines on the current box or pitman arm with it on the truck. Way too tight in there.
So i got the factory part number off the pitman arm YC35-3590-AA. From what ive seen googling that part number its a 32 tooth. Can anyone verify this ?
Im replacing the pitman arm with the box so could i just order a 32 tooth box and pitman arm or a 36 tooth box and arm ?
Are there any difference between the 32 and the 36 ? Length ? Angle ? Etc. Is one more desirable than the other ?
Just want to make sure everything is correct before i remove and install as this my only transportation and do not have the option to wait on correct parts if the ones i get are wrong.
#2
When I had to count mine, I used a dental pick, found a gap and counted the number of splines to the next gap. It’s tight, but if you become a contortionist, you can just barely see the sector shaft above the pitman arm. Another thing to consider, is the orientation of the spline gaps. Here are some pics I found on google images.
#4
#5
You asked for it...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ering-box.html
High points though are below...
Teflon washers - Dorman 82540 - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/d.../82540/4532059
Puller 1 - OEM 27016 - rent from parts store https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/555623_0_0
Puller 2 - OEM 27170 - rent from parts store https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/209523_0_0
Impact Gun - Your choice
Torque Values - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16945742
High pressure hose (if you choose) - 1C3Z3A717AA (verify this number with your VIN)
ATF
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ering-box.html
High points though are below...
Teflon washers - Dorman 82540 - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/d.../82540/4532059
Puller 1 - OEM 27016 - rent from parts store https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/555623_0_0
Puller 2 - OEM 27170 - rent from parts store https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ype/209523_0_0
Impact Gun - Your choice
Torque Values - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16945742
High pressure hose (if you choose) - 1C3Z3A717AA (verify this number with your VIN)
ATF
#7
Mark is right, I will change my post regarding the pullers because I "rented" them from a local parts store and got my money back after returning them. My experience is that you will need BOTH of them because the smaller one is used to pull the track bar off the pitman arm and the larger puller is used to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear shaft.
Even if you are getting a new pitman arm, you must remove the old one from the old gear in order to get your core charge back.
Even if you are getting a new pitman arm, you must remove the old one from the old gear in order to get your core charge back.
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#8
Roger that on the pullers.
I have one like the first picture or link shows but not the seccon.
I also have all the nylon washers.
I was really leaning on tips for getting the box out of the truck.
once everything is disconnected what's the best way to get the box out ?
also how dose the steering wheel disconnect from the box ? Sorry never done this before .
and will the box come out with the pit man arm still attached ? Or must it be removed prior to removal. Same thing with the installation
I have one like the first picture or link shows but not the seccon.
I also have all the nylon washers.
I was really leaning on tips for getting the box out of the truck.
once everything is disconnected what's the best way to get the box out ?
also how dose the steering wheel disconnect from the box ? Sorry never done this before .
and will the box come out with the pit man arm still attached ? Or must it be removed prior to removal. Same thing with the installation
#9
My thread linked above has the steps detailed along with torque specs from when my steering gear exploded as I parked at a campground while on vacation. Paul (AllAboutMPG) was nice enough to travel up to lend a hand during my time of need. The other fellas on the FTE were rooting for us, well some were hoping that we wouldn't get arrested by the Park Ranger too.
You will need the larger puller to get the pitman arm off, I am 100% on that.
Anyway, disconnect the track bar, disconnect the lines from the top (crow foot wrenches were a must here for me, thanks again Paul), disconnect the steering linkage, loosen 3 bolts in wheel well, drop steering gear out, remove pitman arm, then install in reverse order. Bleed the system well with the front wheels off the ground and turning side to side before starting. I went as far as to set my tuner in no start and spun the starter in order to purge more air out of the system without fully starting the truck.
Much more detailed instructions are in the link above that I posted. That thread should answer all of your questions or concerns.
You will need the larger puller to get the pitman arm off, I am 100% on that.
Anyway, disconnect the track bar, disconnect the lines from the top (crow foot wrenches were a must here for me, thanks again Paul), disconnect the steering linkage, loosen 3 bolts in wheel well, drop steering gear out, remove pitman arm, then install in reverse order. Bleed the system well with the front wheels off the ground and turning side to side before starting. I went as far as to set my tuner in no start and spun the starter in order to purge more air out of the system without fully starting the truck.
Much more detailed instructions are in the link above that I posted. That thread should answer all of your questions or concerns.
#11
Mark, you are right. Pitman arm is removed only after the old gear is removed, then new pitman arm is installed only before new gear is installed. Use an impact driver and a lot of oomph and use the nut to push the pitman arm onto the output shaft of the gear.
Orientation of the new pitman arm should be the same as the old one removed. The new gear "should" be dead center.
Right again about securing the steering wheel with the seat belt so it does not flying to one side.
After having done this twice in the past year, it is very easy, just a bit tedious because of the steps involved.
Orientation of the new pitman arm should be the same as the old one removed. The new gear "should" be dead center.
Right again about securing the steering wheel with the seat belt so it does not flying to one side.
After having done this twice in the past year, it is very easy, just a bit tedious because of the steps involved.
#12
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