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i posted on the subject a few months ago, but i'm getting ready to replace the rear track on my sliding door, as its been broken since before i bought it, and often comes off track. to make life interesting, the replacement track was mounted with 16 spot welds, and the original with 21. before i realized this, i was planning to precisely drill out the welds on my van and hope they line up to the replacement track - not gonna happen!! so i'm thinking about drilling out the welds on the existing track, drilling small (3/32) holes through each weld on the replacement track, and copying those to the body, expanding those to match the 3/8 hole-saw i used while removing the replacement track, and then welding the replacement into place. any further suggestions, or do i seem to be on the right track?
for those who didn't see my post a few months ago, my existing track has a crack about a foot long, with a PO's attempted repair, still leaving the track opening tall enough for the door hardware to jump out of position any time it wants to, so IMHO, the track i have is FUBAR'd
In that post it was recommended you have a few experienced body repair shops or people take a look and give you their assessements of that entire body side. Since there are no photos its a bit tough trying to imagine what you're beginning with and which direction to go.
If its your intention to replace the existing track with new via plug or spot welding where the holes are drilled doesn't matter. Once the new track is welded into place any remaining holes should also be welded closed in order to prevent rust forming from exposed untrated bare metal.
Having once owned a body shop I can assure you once you've opened up or created a place for rust to grow it'll develop and advance very very quickly without proper treatment. It sounds like you're mostly on the right path but again no photos makes it tough-----for me anyway.
Are you aware of the specialized tools to accurately "drill out" spot welds? These tools make it possible to "drill out" only the top piece, w/o damaging the piece behind it. See them advertised in HMN all the time.
Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
i was planning to precisely drill out the welds on my van and hope they line up to the replacement track - not gonna happen!! so i'm thinking about drilling out the welds on the existing track, drilling small (3/32) holes through each weld on the replacement track, and copying those to the body, expanding those to match the 3/8 hole-saw i used while removing the replacement track, and then welding the replacement into place.
Presume you'll be using a MIG for "welding the replacement"?
Would be interesting to know why 1 had 16 & the other had 21 spot welds. Aren't all these welds to the side panel itself? Had thought the track was already welded in place when the side panel gets installed on assembly line, before painting.
Yes, I have a wire-feed (gasless) welder to use for installing the new track. I knew my stick welder was just too big, so I bought a harbor freight wire feed model for not too much.
Maybe I should have revived the old thread, oh well, i'm pretty well set on a plan now... And I too am curious as to why the different number of spot welds on the originals
In my experience, most sliding glass doors don't need major repairs. The biggest culprit is usually dirt and debris packed into the track, combined with worn rollers. Before replacing the entire door, try:
Vacuuming the track thoroughly
Cleaning with warm soapy water
Adjusting the roller screws at the bottom of the door
Applying a silicone-based lubricant (not grease)
I've seen doors that felt completely stuck start gliding smoothly after a 30-minute cleanup.
In my experience, most sliding glass doors don't need major repairs. The biggest culprit is usually dirt and debris packed into the track, combined with worn rollers. Before replacing the entire door, try:
Vacuuming the track thoroughly
Cleaning with warm soapy water
Adjusting the roller screws at the bottom of the door
Applying a silicone-based lubricant (not grease)
I've seen doors that felt completely stuck start gliding smoothly after a 30-minute cleanup.
The issue is the follower, it guides the door and keeps the roller in line and true, follower wear or absence, the roller will tip and try to climb out of the track, cutting grooves in it, which forever damage the track, the guides are most likely discontinued and unavailable, mine was, so I had to get creative, and to keep the door sliding smooth, I had to learn how to shut it, wear will cause the door to close different than when new, you had to grab and pull the handle on my door, you could not touch the door anywhere else to help it or the roller would climb and jam it, I daily drove it 10 years without any issues after drilling and installing a bolt inside the follower and closed it how it wanted to be shut. What ever you put in the track to lubricate it attracts dirt, spray the roller bearing only, but the years may have worn the track.
ProBit makes a decent spot weld drill bit in 10mm diameter
Drilled out hundreds of spot welds setting the caster/ camber on Taurus and Sable vehicles back in the mid 90s
The bits are hell to sharpen, but a new one lasts for about 30 spot welds before it's dull if you use a good cutting oil
Last edited by manicmechanic007; Today at 08:24 AM.
ProBit makes a decent spot weld drill bit in 10mm diameter
Drilled out hundreds of spot welds setting the caster/ camber on Taurus and Sable vehicles back in the mid 90s
The bits are hell to sharpen, but a new one lasts for about 30 spot welds before it's dull of you use a good cutting oil
I had a spotweld removal bit when I had to replace the bedside on my F150, burned it up rather quick, oh so many spot welds.
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