i called the collision parts place around here and my cab corners going to be 56.50. my question is how hard is it to replace it? i have a mig welder but ive also been told i could glue it or even rivet it in and then grind the rivets out. my biggest concerns are cutting the old one out, and blending the new one in with the rest of the panels. i was planning on cutting the rusted part out of the old one and then cleaning up the inside rust and then tack welding/riveting/glueing the new one over whats left and then grinding down the edge and then glassing the edges to blend it together. am i planning on doing it right? im no where near the greatest welder.. should i try it myself or try going to a body shop? also its getting kind of late in the year now.. the inner panel is rusted and im kind of afraid to wait til spring incase the rust on the inside gets out of control. any opinions from you guys? i trust my FTE family more than anyone lol.

 

I've been needing to do the same thing but I don't want to screw up. Wouldn't the 1990's cab corner be identicle to the 1980-1986 corners? You can order them for like $20 + shipping on the internet.

 

Im kinda afraid of screwing it up too. Im not sure about the panels though maybe someone will answer that question as well

 

I'm not sure about the panels either, but to replace a panel, here's generally what you need to do:

1. (and foremost). Cut out ALL the rust with a cutoff wheel. Cut all the way back until you have good, solid metal to weld to.

2. Take the paint off with a flap wheel a couple inches back from the cut. You don't want any contamination.

3. Tack the replacement in place make sure it's where you want it. Measure, cut, and trim carefully. Take your time and make sure it looks right from a distance. If a corner is crooked it will look worse from far away.

4. When you're ready to burn it in, don't just lay a bead all the way around. The heat will warp the sheet metal and you'll never get it smooth. Tack it in place a bit at a time, then add another tack 5-6 inches away, then another 5-6 inches further away, etc. until you've worked your way all around the panel. Keep going until the tacks all run together and you end up with a solid bead all the way around.

5. Grind the weld down smooth, fill in any gaps with body filler, and then paint it.

Above all, take your time! It's not a quick process and this is why a body shop will charge you an arm and a leg for this kind of work. With patience and some practice, you can do a professional looking job.

If you've never done this before, go to the junkyard and pick up a junk body panel. Cut it up and practice welding it back together before you tackle your truck.

 

Steps.....

1)Get the corner(s)

2)Hold the new corner up, over the old one, as tightly as possible.

3)Mark an outline of the new corner; and then cut it out with a cutoff wheel, LEAVE SOME METAL TO THE INNERMOST SIDE....

It's easier to trim, than to add more metal....

4)Use a wire brush/wheel.....Clean the inside of the panels (The new panel around 2" from the edges, and on the cab its' self...2" around the hole that you've cut out....

5)Fit the new panel in, as flush as possible......a TINY tack weld here an there to just hold it in......Use this time WISELY......This is what affects the REST of the way it all goes...Good or Bad....

6) After you get the panel in PERFECTLY....Use pea sized tack welds, ALTERNATING BACK AND FORTH ACROSS THE PANEL.....It'll reduce shrinkage/warpage....Just morale of the story, don't run a bead....Just keep doing the tack welds, and let the metal cool a bit here and there....

Just to be sure....

7)Once you get the panel all tacked in.....Use a grinder/wheel to smoothe the welds out.....Flush....Then, use a flashlight, and put it inside the cab corner (Via the inside of the truck of course) and look for light....So you can get all the pin holes tacked up and done...

8)Re-Grind the welds, then mix the Bodyfiller (Bondo), and use it SPARINGLY......Use it as thinly as possible...

9)Sand, block...Make it as smoothe as glass starting with about 80g paper, then work your way to 2-3000g.......Then use some body glaze/putty....Resand..YOu can use more finishing paper at this point...

10)Primer it; Don't be cheap.....Use a QUALITY primer....I'd recommend Plasti-Kote from Car-Quest....It's about $7 a can....Goes on THICK...And SMOOTHE....Hardly ANY runs.....I mean, honestly, I thnk its awesome stuff....

11) Have a shop match paint up, and spray/clearcoat it...You're done...

 

Tip-

The weld shouldn't LAY on the metal, as much as it should MESH with the metal....

Don't start on a SIDE....Literally touch the wires in BETWEEN the panel and the cab pillar...THAT is how you get the FLUSH welds.....

Once you start, you'll see what I mean..


Oh, BTW.....Get some undercoating, etc....And spray the #*&% out of the inner side once its done....SO dirt, etc won't retain moisture later, and cause you to have to repeat it all...

 

Alright.

Any tips on cutting the old one out? Im not going to cut through something on the backside am i?

Do i have to remove all the interrior trim off of that part of the cab?

 

Just be careful man....

There should be a inner liner, at least so far down.....So JUST nip the metal out...Using about 1/4'' of the cut off wheel....

After you make the outline to cut by, try to cut...Oh....About 1/8" or 1/4" INSIDE the line....So that you can massage it into the space....Again, it's a LOT easier to trim, than to add......