4R100 shifter slop.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Chocowinity NC
Definately try the two bolts first. Mine was slowly getting a lot of slop and then one of the two bolts fell out and hit me on the foot. I added locktite and tightened them. No more issues.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 2
From: Garden City, KS
My cousin had a truck with over 200K miles like mine and his shifter wasn't as worn as mine... in fact, it was still pretty tight! The reason mine was so worn was because when my dad had the truck, it was his company work truck and he did alot of short spurts of this and that so the door hinges are sloppy, the shifter WAS sloppy... you probably can imagine what lots of in and out and short distances will do to a truck. But I'm slowly knocking off on that list of "troublesome parts"...
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 2
From: Garden City, KS
OK, I got some pictures together. I don't know if the first two will be very helpful, but hopefully, it'll give you an idea of where and how the assembly is situated. When you disassemble the shifter assembly, there's gonna be a small clip that hold the pin in for the shifter lever. That clip has to be taken out before the pin will budge (ask me how I know)... there is also a "paddle" thingy on the back that fits into the notches that create the positions you feel. That part was still good (it was made of hard steel) so it's not in the picture... but there's a pin that holds that in too, but it's held in there by friction instead of a clip. Just rest it on top of a vice with the clamps about 1/4" apart and gently tap it out with a punch. When you put the new stuff back together, use plenty of lithium grease on EVERYTHING... including the plastic bushings and it'll work like a charm!
Here's the column:
Here's what it looks like when you take it out:
Here are the parts that usually are the culprit:
Hope this helps,
Jon
Here's the column:
Here's what it looks like when you take it out:
Here are the parts that usually are the culprit:
Hope this helps,
Jon
Thread Starter
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
I did, they are tight.
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Modular motor junkie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 8
From: Texas
Thanks JonathanN , rep sent.
I have used this for a lot of work like that too and I have the same door hinge problem.
I will try and remeber to get back on and tell you what I find.
I have used this for a lot of work like that too and I have the same door hinge problem.
I will try and remeber to get back on and tell you what I find.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 2
From: Garden City, KS
Well, I can pick up on the end of the door and feel some slop. I'm pretty sure I'll just need to get some new pins and bushings. Also, those sliders that make the door stop at certain positions while I'm opening it are very worn as well... it'll get fiexed eventually when I can find some money! 
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 2
From: Garden City, KS
Oh, and thanks for the reps! But I hear you about the money... I have a list a mile long of "Wanna Have Mods". I'll be happy if I could just make it past paint, wheels, and seats... all are in pretty sorry shape... same old work truck excuse. I'm just glad I know where it came from (it was dad's), and where it's been.
Jon
Jon
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge
My 06 is pretty good, but we have a 2000 RV with the F53 chassis and the V10 and we had to replace the whole mechanism too. The guys at the dealer didn't even bat and eye, they knew exactly what we needed, must be a very common problem. Ours randomly picked a gear (on the indicator). We just let off the brake to figure out whether we were in D or R for the longest time. We did that until one time it was in 2 and we had a hell of a time getting it to be in D, then we broke down and got the parts. It was not to hard to fix, but with a RV we had alot of room to work with.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 2
From: Garden City, KS
Theoretically, it'd work that way. But if I recall correctly, that pin (even with the clip removed) is really stuck in there good. To punch the pin out would put an awful lot of stress on the hardware that holds the whole assy. in there. Plus, having it out is a great excuse to replace those plastic shifter bushings... they go out and you have alot of slop. For me, the whole dang assy. was shot... so much for an easy fix! Anyways, hope this helps... it's only pot metal and without a good solid "banging surface", something could get screwed.
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