Hey everyone, I am new to the site and looking for some insight.

A few years ago a friend of the family gave us a 1978 F-350 dump truck to use on our farm. It has been a great addition to our equipment, and has functioned well all around until recently.

Yesterday, I was bringing a load of metal to the scrap yard. The truck is a 4 speed manual, and as I completed an upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear, the shifter came loose in my hand and flopped all around. Still in gear, I pulled to the side of the road. After removing the fasteners around the shifter, I looked in and saw where the shifter should sit in the rail for 3rd/4th gear. I was able to feel around with the shifter, pop out of gear, and refasten in the correct place. I thought I was in good shape, made it to the scrap yard normally, and was headed home when it happened again. This time I was able to pull up on the shifter and repeat the process without removing it. After a few miles I stopped on a hill and the same problem occurred, but in first gear. I removed the shifter again and saw there was no way to reach the slot in first, the shifter itself would contact the dashboard, limiting the angle that the bottom could reach. I had to bend a small diameter steel fencepost at a steep angle to reach in and pull the rail out of 1st gear back to where the shifter could reach its slot.

It seems there is some type of fastener missing, or something that holds the shifter in the slots on the rails from side to side has broken. I was wondering if anyone else here has experienced anything similar where the shifter itself became disconnected, or has any advice.

Thanks guys!

 

I believe the shifter is held in with two pins where it pivots. Improper removal of the shifter can cause damage or breakage to these pins. Maybe that's it?

 

mountain dewd,

The two pins looked good when I pulled the shifter. It seems that the slots in the shifter sides allow it to pivot on the pins like you said, but do not provide any downward pressure on the spring to keep the shifter engaged.

 

Perhaps the slots are wallowed out and not providing the necessary downward pressure on the spring?

 

Here you go, something sure sounds broke. NP-435 or T-18?
NP435 = aluminumtop cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code:A=NP435 (N-1965 only) /F=Warner T-18 /P=F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220)threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D)has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it. Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction. The other person hits it from the top with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in.)People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins.
Originally NP435: Reverse-down towards the seat while Warner T-18: Reverse-uptowards the dash.
The reverse shift pattern was changed circa 1973, but I can't recall for which of these 4 speeds. (I believe it the NP435)
Note: There's another 4 speed: RUG SR-OD Single Rail 4 Speed Overdrive introduced in 1978 F100/150 300/302, TRANS codeB

 

Being a 78 f350, you should have a 400 with a 435. I have heard a tale about the ball on the end of the shifter shaft that goes into the trans wearing or breaking off. If you can get the short shaft out, compare it to the pic Rich supplied of the 435. Curious about how easy you seem to have been able to get into that transmission, removal of a 435 shifter usually involves a bit of swearing even if its under your breath and that floor pan usually has a lot of gum on it.

Has someone been playing, er fixing the truck.

 

Yes, it is a 400 cube with what I believe to be the NP-435. After I remove the fasteners from the rubber boot, here is what I see.


It was extremely easy to pull the shifter up and out of the transmission, almost the opposite from what the last two comments have said. It takes very little effort, just a small lift straight up. The pins and ball end of the shifter where it contacts the rails look good compared to the above diagram. Here is a picture.

 

Perhaps the spring itself is bad?

 

This is not a Warner T-18 as its shift lever retainer cap threads on/off.

New Process 435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches and is retained by two pins that protrude from the tower.

This cap must be pressed down by hand and held down while turning it counter clockwise to remove it.

People unaware use pliers or channel locks which tears out one/both of the notches. From what I see (post #7), at least one notch has been torn out.

B8T-7220-D = Closest sources to NY

CLAREMONT FORD-LINCOLN in Claremont NH has 1 = 800-659-4152.

DELBALSO FORD in Kingston PA has 2 = 570-288-4501.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 37 = 800-476-9653.

 

Part number 7220 in the diagram.... Looks like yours is messed up. That's the piece that should should be pushed down and turned to lock the shifter into place.

 

See post 9.

 

If you did nothing to that small metal piece that slides over the shifter....then that's your problem, that metal collar with the spring underneath should be flush with the trans, you have to push it down and turn it. The ears on the collar will lock with the pins on the trans, that's what holds the shift rod in. The way to have it pictured right now, nothing is holding that shift rod in place. Your metal collar seems to be missing the ears that hold it in place. which could be a problem.

 

Heres what I am talking about

 

I thought something looked amiss with that collar, and its potential missing ears. After another look, appears like they broke off at some point. Thanks zoom feature.

 

Now that I have zoomed in very close on the exploded view, I can see the missing notches in part 7220 that would use the upward spring pressure to retain said parts. I will replace the cap when able, which seems as though it should solve my problem. The odd part is that I have never had the shifter removed for any work, so it was broken by its previous owner and functioning normally for many years, or just broke recently. I find it hard to believe it was a recent event, as both sides of the cap have large amounts of material missing, as if it has been loose and rubbing for quite some time.

A huge thanks to everyone in this thread for their input on my problem. No way I could have found such detailed and specific information on my own. I knew I came to this forum for a reason!