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As for the serial number are you referring to the "vin"?
VIN is government speak for Vehicle Identification Number, a code created in the late 1970's to have a worldwide, standardized vehicle identification system that would show country of origin, make, model, engine code, assembly plant, among other things. Prior to 1979, manufacturers made up their own identifying system within their serial number. For nearly 50 years, VIN has become the common term to use for identifying a vehicle, and even though our trucks far predate the official creation of the term I believe it's still accurate as a serial number is, no matter what anyone says, a number that identifies the vehicle. Before serial numbers, vehicles were identified by "Engine Number" as serial numbers were stamped on engines instead of chassis. Depending on brand, some may have numbers only on the engine, some would have one number stamped on both the engine and chassis, and some had separate numbers stamped on engine and chassis. It was all very confusing as most titles said engine number, not chassis or serial number. It wasn't until the 1950's that governments figured out engines were routinely replaced when worn out, the official number of the vehicle was lost, and the ownership papers no longer matched the vehicle. Serial numbers on chassis became the norm. It was another 20 years past that when identification was still such a mess that the VIN, stamped on several places and components of the vehicle, was standardized and mandated. And that concludes your history lesson in a nutshell for today.
Tim, to the best of my knowledge, (which may or may not be more or less than yours ), all US production 48 Ford trucks got the new 8BA engine while cars finished out their year and style run with the 59AB. However, in Canada, and you probably know this, too, according to the Canadian Chassis Parts Catalogue, 1948 production trucks carried over the 59AB until serial number H48-20000. Nothing in the catalog puts a date on that, just that serial number. My supposition is they didn't really build 20,000 trucks with the old engine, but ran the number up to a large round one as a break point for ease of differentiation when the time was right for the switch.
Thanks - I don't have that Canadian reference book.
VIN is government speak for Vehicle Identification Number, a code created in the late 1970's to have a worldwide, standardized vehicle identification system that would show country of origin, make, model, engine code, assembly plant, among other things. Prior to 1979, manufacturers made up their own identifying system within their serial number. For nearly 50 years, VIN has become the common term to use for identifying a vehicle, and even though our trucks far predate the official creation of the term I believe it's still accurate as a serial number is, no matter what anyone says, a number that identifies the vehicle. Before serial numbers, vehicles were identified by "Engine Number" as serial numbers were stamped on engines instead of chassis. Depending on brand, some may have numbers only on the engine, some would have one number stamped on both the engine and chassis, and some had separate numbers stamped on engine and chassis. It was all very confusing as most titles said engine number, not chassis or serial number. It wasn't until the 1950's that governments figured out engines were routinely replaced when worn out, the official number of the vehicle was lost, and the ownership papers no longer matched the vehicle. Serial numbers on chassis became the norm. It was another 20 years past that when identification was still such a mess that the VIN, stamped on several places and components of the vehicle, was standardized and mandated. And that concludes your history lesson in a nutshell for today.
To add to Wayne's lesson:
On my early '48 COE chassis (33,839), the "engine number" is stamped on the half-bell housing of the transmission just above the inspection plate rather than on the block itself.
Earlier Ford cars and trucks normally had the identifying number stamped in multiple places - frame rail under the body, engine compartment and on the "engine".
Just a heads up for new flathead guys, you can't measure the depth of the stroke thru the spark plug hole. The plugs sit over the valves instead of the cylinder.
Brian, do you have any documentation for 59AB installed in the new F series trucks? I have never seen anything printed although some guys on here have made that claim before. Everything I have links the new 8RT with the new model F series which came out Jan 16, 1948 - roughly 6 months ahead of the new car model.
Backhoe, if ;you post your serial number we can give you a rough idea of when your truck was produced. I like the backhoe idea!
Tim
Ok I got the registration in front of me. It's an older NY registration which is also the title. Im not familiar with pre 79 titles/registrations as this is my first personal. It doesn't specify the serial number or if its a document number.
Photo dump. Hopefully some of these photos help. It's still fairly wet out (I'm in western NY) so I wasn't going to crawl around under the truck. There's a fair bit of everything to clean well everywhere so dont mind the mud wasp nests and mouse nests/poop. The backhoe looks to have a plate welded to the frame and looks to be detachable? Also the seat inside the cab is for the backhoe. Hope this helps you help me! Thanks everyone I appreciate it!
Last edited by BackhoeF6; Apr 1, 2026 at 05:33 PM.
Hey guys been a hot minute but been starting to do some maintenance on the backhoe and she's in need of someone that might be able to point me in the right direction with what I seem to be having trouble with. The belt for the water pumps is destroyed and I picked some new belts up from napa. Well they would work if my truck still had a generator. It seems this truck at some point in its life was converted to an alternator. Now I've never dealt with HD alternators but if someone has a similar setup and happens to know the right size belt that'd be awesome but I might end up finding a generator and go back to how it would have came. Thoughts? I appreciate any feedback thank you
The Leece alternator is not a common feature/option and so there isn't going to be a readily specified belt size. Your best bet is to find the part number of the existing belt, measure the existing belt, or measure for a new belt.