Hey all I've been searching and reading comments that all have posted and I've finally decided I'd like to share my new to me probably one of a kind F6. The history that I know of currently is that it used to be a fire truck during its first part in life. It was purchased by my father in laws father I'm guessing during the late 60s early 70s. Still trying to get more information as I would like to make a documentation on this truck for the future for the family. My father in law has since passed and it has ended up in my hands cause I didn't want it to go away. My plans for it is to become road ready again and drive it on from time to time. It's rough but at the same time very sturdy and has a lot of good left in her. She still runs and moves and even though hasn't been used a whole lot in the last 30 years (hasn't been on the road since 1999) still has done work (used to dig ditches, basements, ponds ect) and can still today granted it lost brakes roughly 5 years ago (rear leak of some kind haven't looked hard enough to see where but plan on doing a complete brake replacement) the weather is starting to break which means I'm getting antsy to get out and start wrenching on her. My first start on it is tires and brakes. So I'm rolling thoughts over how I want to proceed with that as theres a bunch of options as far as wheels go. Anyways just wanted to say hi and let me know what you think? How many of you have seen something like this before?

 

That thing is beyond cool. try fixing a model year 2024 excavator in 2076, you'll never find the parts/schematics.

This thing is so simple it'll be fixable in 100 years from now. Future generations of DIY'ers are gonna regret having let this "junk" get scrapped for pennys on the dollar just to turn around and spend 25 hours chasing wiring diagrams, computer sensors, and ECM's on modern tractors after they break.

Keep the faith and get 'er back hoe-ing again.

 

That is neat! And welcome to the best spot on the internet for these trucks! As for brake parts - the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, flexible lines can all be had. Various hardware, drums, shoes, and vacuum brake booster are going to be trickier. Hopefully your drums are serviceable - if not, you will need to look towards finding another used but serviceable set - usually involves obtaining a whole carcass of a truck. Alternatively, you can investigate the expense of getting your drums lined. You don't get new shoes like you may be accustomed to. Instead, you get your existing shoes relined at your localish heavy duty brake and clutch shop. Work with them on selecting a material that is easier on the drums (typically at the expense of having to reline your shoes more often). The original vacuum brake booster styles are long out of service. Cardone did have some essentially drop in options, but the supply of those has dwindled. Let us know which style booster setup the truck has and we can begin to point you in a direction on that. If that all has not scared you away, then here is the real whammy that can surprise unsuspecting newbies - the dreaded Firestone RH-5° rims - the real widowmakers (a term generally and unfortunately misapplied to other rim styles that are still serviceable). They are a real safety issue and no reputable tire shop will service them and for good reason. There are a few options for replacement rims and every once in a while, a member here has a lead on a safer set. Currently I believe bobj49f2 has a set of 20" lock ring style rims available that they would sell. Take a look at all 6 (or 7) wheels that you have and let us see and identify what rims you do have and if you need to remediate any of them. While this all sounds daunting, I do have a few of these big trucks, including one that was and still is a fire truck and have experience dealing with these brakes and wheels.

 

Man, I can see that coming in handy. I'm glad you saved it. Very cool.

 

Thank you for the reply and input! Fortunately I like the challenge and i know its going to be a long one. My biggest gain on all this is i work on cars for a living (all years my oldest i worked on is a 1939 graham and a 1942 desoto mainly 60s cars and all the way up to current not boasting and I dont have all the knowledge on everything but willing to learn and do the best I can) Yes these wheels are my on my mind. These are the split rims in the center so I'm not a fan. They've been holding up air for over 40 years now. So far I've been thinking 2 main options and 1 of them is buying a set of better rim locking wheels like you had mentioned from bobj49f2. The other would be buying the 22.5 tubeless wheel blanks and welding in the centers. I'd like to say money's no object but it is so I have to be thoughtful in my restoration. Most of the truck is all original and theres a decent amount of metal work that will need fixing along with wiring, lights, glass and interior work. I most definitely will be reaching out to gain more knowledge on these fine vintage trucks as I'm about to dig in with this truck!

 

That's pretty interesting. Is that a stabilizer jack I see behind that rear wheel? If not, I cannot imagine how much that thing jumps around without it. As the operator of an excavator a lot and a backhoe occasionally, I can tell you that is not a fun ride without those things engaged with the ground. Show us some more pics of how the backhoe is attached to the frame. Very cool piece you have there.

 

Ya, you don't see many (if any) of those with a back hoe on it.

 

I can see a stabilizer foot behind the right rear wheel and the cylinder behind it.

 

Thanks for responding. I will be getting some more pictures when its not raining outside. Yes this does have stabilizers on each side and all hydraulics work. It's got a crank driven pto that so far seems to be always on while the engines running but will look to see if theres a way to disengage it. Any way to find out what size flathead v8 it has by markings and where to find them?

 

There was only "one size" V8 flathead offered for these trucks - 239ci. However, your 48 may have come with a 59A block instead of the 8BA/8RT - or if you won the lottery, someone dropped a Mercury 255ci in there.

First would be to look at the water outlets on the heads. If they are centered, then that seems indicative of a 59A block. If they are towards the front, then that would be an 8BA/8RT block. The differences in the 8BA passenger engine and the 8RT engine include:

• Wide belts for the truck 8RT truck accessories - water pump, generator, fan etc...
• 7RT/8RT carburetor with hand throttle for the truck 8RT
• Larger oil pan with clean out for the truck 8RT
• 11" clutch for the 8RT
• 7RT exhaust manifolds for the truck 8RT
• 8RT oil dipstick

What makes 255 a 255 is the 4" crank (opposed to the 3.75 239) - it's hard to discern that visually externally - measure the stroke.

 

Just a heads up for new flathead guys, you can't measure the depth of the stroke thru the spark plug hole. The plugs sit over the valves instead of the cylinder.

Brian, do you have any documentation for 59AB installed in the new F series trucks? I have never seen anything printed although some guys on here have made that claim before. Everything I have links the new 8RT with the new model F series which came out Jan 16, 1948 - roughly 6 months ahead of the new car model.

Backhoe, if ;you post your serial number we can give you a rough idea of when your truck was produced. I like the backhoe idea!
Tim

 

I will definitely have a look under the hood once this rain stops as its been downpouring all day especially now that I'm out of work. As for the serial number are you referring to the "vin"? Also I know this probably has been beaten into the ground on wheels and just rattling it around in my brain thoughts on an 8 bolt from a 79 Winnebago? I'm not personally interested in doing drastic swapping and disposal of the Winnebago just for wheels/axles

 

In common speak, we tend to throw VIN and Serial around in this context meaning the same thing. Some do get quite worked up and go "These are not proper Federal 17 digit VIN numbers; they are serial numbers" and then there is the serial component of the overall number too...

IMHO, the most straightforward option would be along the lines of something like the wheelset from Bob. Axle swaps usually lead to steering, suspension, driveshaft brake, and other complications.

 

Tim, to the best of my knowledge, (which may or may not be more or less than yours ), all US production 48 Ford trucks got the new 8BA engine while cars finished out their year and style run with the 59AB. However, in Canada, and you probably know this, too, according to the Canadian Chassis Parts Catalogue, 1948 production trucks carried over the 59AB until serial number H48-20000. Nothing in the catalog puts a date on that, just that serial number. My supposition is they didn't really build 20,000 trucks with the old engine, but ran the number up to a large round one as a break point for ease of differentiation when the time was right for the switch.

 

Thanks 52Merc, I totally meant to respond with the Canadian information in my last response but evidently have clicked submit forgetting to do so!