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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 09:22 AM
  #16  
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DB Electrical here...can't complain
 
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Old Mar 6, 2018 | 07:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Can you tell which size they are by looking at them or testing them if there are no identification stickers?
Not sure on the Mitsubishi PLGR,The Denso OSGR has a noticeable size difference.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2018 | 08:52 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
DB Electrical here...can't complain
Me either.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 12:11 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Keep us apprised, it says 'original Denso' so it best not be a knock off!
I am pleased to see this unit is legit. I try to stick with word of mouth recommendations but saving 50+ bucks made me pause long enough to consider it.

 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 06:10 AM
  #20  
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I replaced my tired positive cable, cleaned the grounds, and replaced the starter with stock type. The engine cranks faster than it ever did when I bought it used - life is very good here.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 07:12 AM
  #21  
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Thanks for the update, what's the tube sticking out of it?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:42 AM
  #22  
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Back to the OP, when you say it "free spins" I hope you mean it does that without hitting the flywheel teeth. Otherwise delaying the repair could cost you a lot more than a starter down the road. I put in a DB Electrical from ebay right after I got this truck. So far so good, but I'm also now questioning the quality of my OE battery and starter cables, planning on doing that job soon too.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:52 AM
  #23  
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Yes, it spins without engaging. Hardly ever does it.
I cleaned up the ground connections and thought that might be the problem but it will surprise me every one in a while and the first turn of the key just spin. Has always started the second turn of the key.

Going Elk hunting in September so I will look at changing it out before then.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 08:54 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by donnybrasco
I am pleased to see this unit is legit. I try to stick with word of mouth recommendations but saving 50+ bucks made me pause long enough to consider it.





Scored on that one.
I am curious if you will have to grind on the frame to install it. My thinking is that the knock-offs are probably slightly larger than the Denso and is why some have to grind.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2018 | 09:00 AM
  #25  
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Good find for sure!

I looked a bit, but not too hard when I decided to just go with what I knew was genuine from CNC.

Jim, I did NOT have to grind or modify anything to fit the Denso in my 2000 ZF6 truck. I went in fully expecting to have to because of the information I had read, but was happy that I did not.

DonnyBrasco, did you use longer bolts to mount the starter like I did? If I remember correctly I used bolts that were 15mm longer than the OEM ones because the surface of the Denso is much thicker. On my ZF6, the bolt holes go through, not sure how they are on the 4R100.



Denso on left OEM on right.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2018 | 10:18 AM
  #26  
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I put a Denso in my 2000 auto last weekend after watching Sous’ video and didn’t have any clearance issues. I went with 40mm bolts which netted me 2mm more thread engagement than stock bolts and stock starter. With the 4R100, one of the holes is blocked by the trans, so sticking through isn’t an option.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 08:59 AM
  #27  
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I have to admit those Denso starters are impressive monsters.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 06:58 AM
  #28  
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Brad, you remember the bolt size? Ever since Sous posted the use of longer bolts, ive been "forgetting" to replace mine, since the DB install. Can hit McFadden on way home..
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 07:07 AM
  #29  
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For the ZF6 they were M10 x 1.5 x 45mm bolts. Brad used 40mm and I would assume the M10 is still the same, but might not be.

This is what the 45mm look like after mounted. Imagine the OEM 30mm in there, very drastic difference in bite between the two.

 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 07:46 AM
  #30  
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Yes, they’re M10 x 1.5 x 40mm. I also bought #12 lock washers.
 
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