Transmission doesn't always go into gear
#1
#2
#5
#7
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#8
Yes...full. I did have to add a quart to it when I bought it and I used Dex3/Merc fluid. I suppose it's possible that it could have been switched over to Merc5 fluid at some point but I don't know how I'd tell the difference. The 2-3 shift is a little sketchy...like there's a slight delay but it does shift. All others are firm and quick. Tranny runs 90-100° above ambient temp so it's not getting hot. 60° outside yesterday and it was running 145-150°. The truck has 260k on it and I have no idea if it's ever had a tranny or not.
#9
could be the shift linkage at the transmission
Cable and Bracket Adjustment
Place the gearshift lever in the (D) position.
Place an eight pound weight on the gearshift lever. (Just apply some downward force on th lever)
Raise and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the manual lever. (Lever on left side of Trans)
Unlock the lock tab on the transmission shift cable.
Place the manual control lever in the (D) position.
Place the manual control lever in the first gear position.
Move the manual control lever two detents to the (D) position.
Connect the transmission shift cable to the manual control lever.
Lock the transmission shift cable lock tab.
Lower the vehicle.
Carefully move the gearshift lever from detent to detent and compare with transmission settings. Verify that the vehicle will start in PARK or NEUTRAL and backup lamps illuminate in REVERSE. If not, Steps 1-5 must be repeated and include digital TR or TR sensor adjustment in NEUTRAL. Readjust if necessary.
This picture may be showing the direction for re-latching the tab, but you get the idea.
from
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7397282
otherwise, maybe DTR sensor or something more serious?
Cable and Bracket Adjustment
Place the gearshift lever in the (D) position.
Place an eight pound weight on the gearshift lever. (Just apply some downward force on th lever)
Raise and support the vehicle.
Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the manual lever. (Lever on left side of Trans)
Unlock the lock tab on the transmission shift cable.
Place the manual control lever in the (D) position.
Place the manual control lever in the first gear position.
Move the manual control lever two detents to the (D) position.
Connect the transmission shift cable to the manual control lever.
Lock the transmission shift cable lock tab.
Lower the vehicle.
Carefully move the gearshift lever from detent to detent and compare with transmission settings. Verify that the vehicle will start in PARK or NEUTRAL and backup lamps illuminate in REVERSE. If not, Steps 1-5 must be repeated and include digital TR or TR sensor adjustment in NEUTRAL. Readjust if necessary.
This picture may be showing the direction for re-latching the tab, but you get the idea.
from
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7397282
otherwise, maybe DTR sensor or something more serious?
#10
I'll try that when we get back from the upcoming trip (if we get back). I need to replace the neutral safety switch anyway as it's making the shift lever difficult to move. For what it's worth, it will always start in park and the reverse lights always come on in reverse. This truck had been pretty well neglected by the PO so I'm having to work through its issues one at a time.
#11
It might be a loosening feed bolt. This bolt transfers pressure from the valve body into the transmission. If it loosens it leaks pressure. The other possibility is a worn out direct clutch.
#12
Mark, I think you're right. I noticed this afternoon that if I put it in reverse and don't feel it go into gear, I can tap the gas just enough to slightly raise the rpm and it'll grab reverse pretty hard. My be it'll hold up until I can get the chance to work on it. Is the bolt you referenced accessible from the pan or does the trans have to come out to get to it? Also, if I had to replace the trans, I'm assuming the stock 4R100 is plenty strong enough for a V-10? No need for a BTS or equivalent?
#13
The feed bolt is in the pan, under the valve body. Drop the pan and the valve body and there are the three feed bolts. The trans doesn't need to come out of the truck.
In my opinion, the stock 4R100 is plenty strong enough for whatever engine it was installed with at the factory. That includes the V10 and the 7.3L. It's when the engine is modified for more power that the trans also needs to be modified.
In my opinion, the stock 4R100 is plenty strong enough for whatever engine it was installed with at the factory. That includes the V10 and the 7.3L. It's when the engine is modified for more power that the trans also needs to be modified.