Hoping for a little info. Made the mistake of removing the injection pump drive gear with my IP. And nope I don't have it marked . Now I'm wondering if it's possible to use a mirror to look between the drive gear and the front engine cover to match the timing marks, or do I really have to remove the front cover and everything else?

 

Do some searching. using a mirror, a light, and some putty / playdoh you can find where you need to be. Im sure someone will chime in here with the links. It really does need to be made a sticky

 

It looks like there's about 1/4 inch between the gear and the cover, and maybe one of these flexible mirror covers might work. I think I was off by a tooth or two when I took off the IP with the gear. Do you know if the timing mark on the vibration damper gives me a hint if I am close?

 

The first time I installed my pump, I had to do it like this. Basically all I did was bring the balancer to the 0 mark on the pointer, then I counted 17 teeth on either side of the "Y" to the bottom of the timing cover on each side, to center the "Y"... I was careful not to rotate the gear putting it on, and I got it first try. Just take your time, and do things carefully, and you should be able to knock it out first try.

 

Hmm, I think your on to something. Thanks a bunch! My marks on the plate that's in front of the damper are worn. Is the 0 mark directly on the center of the plate?

 

ask and you shall receive.

"Talk about Timing!!"

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pump-gear.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ning-info.html

 

This is awesome! Thanks. Hopefully I'll get this beast back together.

 

Mods:

Sticky, please.
Thank you.

Sincerely,

IDI Local 445/420

 

Ask, and you shall receive

I locked the thread to try and keep it clean for the next guy. If the original poster still needs help, he can open a new thread if that's ok.

 

Thanks ManicMike,now this was a very good read,The cavitation article was very good stuff to know also.
This should be at the top so all of us new owners can read before plugging up the threads with the basics of these engines.

 

im coming off mobil 1 5w 40 and going to amsoil 5w 30 series 3000 due to increased fuel prices.
navistar says 30w is ok for this engine for temps below 32F but ok up to 90F
(which is pretty much all but a couple months out of the year here in Maine.at which time i can run some 40w dino for July and August.)
i will be sticking with mobil 1 synthetic filter (extended change duration) for the psd.#m1-601
(though amsoil has synthetic filters as well.)

 

Just some random thoughts, but how about linking to the glow plug stickies, making this FAQ a one stop sticky?


Glow plugs, 83 thru 86, old style

Glow plugs, 87 thru 94, new style system


Here is a good thread on the CDR with pics: What is a CDR?


Maybe mention the soup bowl mod?

How about some part numbers for the Single Mass Flywheel & clutch?

Not necessarily diesel related, but maybe throw in the firewall weakness around the slave cylinder and the repair. And the bleeding of the slave cylinder seems to come up quite often.

 

Here are pics & discussion on the ram/cold air mods:

Pics.

Discussion.

 

Here is an excellent tutorial with lots of pictures @ oilburners on IDI thermostat replacement:

THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 101 Tech PicTutorial

 

Soup Bowl Mod Explained, With Pics

Fuel tank sending units, pickup tubes, and bed removal:

Fuel Tank Sending Units

Show us your IDI:

Show off your IDI thread !!

STOP THE DOOR RATTLE