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Does anyone know the torque spec for the steering wheel? I removed it to troubleshoot TSS which is working and it doesn't say what the torque spec is anywhere in my Haynes manual. And does anyone know if the bundle of wires that plugs into the tail light wiring harness and runs along the frame up into the engine bay is available or being reproduced? I repaired several of the PO's hatchet wiring jobs, that's where the problem for my turn signal was coming from. I looked closer to the front of the truck, and where the wire bundle runs along the frame, on the transfer case shock absorber mount, the wires have moved around so much over the years that the coating is all rubbed off the wires. Thought rather than piece these all back together, to just get a new wire bundle.
Don't have a torque spec.
On the wiring. You need :
D8TZ-14405-B Wiring harness, rear lamp
Fits 78-up F150-250 Super cab 4WD 155" wheelbase, w/ or w/o camper special
I couldn't locate any at any of the dealers I have access to.
The harness will have a tag that reads D8TB 14405-BC, BD, CC or CD
Haynes manuals can be so frustrating. Installation is opposite of removal, torque to specs, how can I torque to specs if they don't give them anywhere in the book!!
Haynes manuals can be so frustrating. Installation is opposite of removal, torque to specs, how can I torque to specs if they don't give them anywhere in the book!!
That was a misprint, it was supposed to read "torque to guess".
Actually, the Ford shop manual calls for 45-55 ft-lbs.
Thanks Mike. I've had to do the torque to guess thing before unfortunately. I'm wondering how difficult it would be to re wire that section myself? Not sure how they splice in the wiring for the fuel tanks, or if those are separate from the other wires?
I believe the fuel level sending wires are in the harness but the wiring for the valve (dual tanks) is a separate harness. Repairing the harness shouldn't be too bad. Just take it one wire at a time.
I would strongly suggest soldering the connections and using waterproof heat shrink tubing to seal them.
I believe the fuel level sending wires are in the harness but the wiring for the valve (dual tanks) is a separate harness. Repairing the harness shouldn't be too bad. Just take it one wire at a time.
I would strongly suggest soldering the connections and using waterproof heat shrink tubing to seal them.
I tried to solder the connections that I fixed today. Put flux on the wires, but couldn't get the solder to stick to the wires, it kept balling up and falling to the ground. So I gave up and used the crimp connectors.
I tried to solder the connections that I fixed today. Put flux on the wires, but couldn't get the solder to stick to the wires, it kept balling up and falling to the ground. So I gave up and used the crimp connectors.
That means you've got the copper on the cables too hot and carbon has built up so solder wont stick. Thin gauge copper wire can be a pain to solder but it just takes practice. Crimp connectors will eventually break and corrode, soldering is still a much better option.