2008 PSD CC...does anyone know which wires (colors) need to be connected to allow for high idle . I found the wire bundles but am not sure which wires to use so my #4 upfitter switch can be used.

 

PM me with an email address and I'll email you the Service bulletins I have (Q files, PDF format). Anyone else wanting them feel free also.....

 

Here is the link to the QVM Bulliten Q-162, from the Ford website.
www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q162.pdf

 

Does anyone know if the dealer will hook up the high idle and also can you leave the switch on at night then remote start the truck in the am and have it go to high idle automatically??

 

It's easier than you think, I did mine a couple of days ago. Just pop off the plastic cover under the steering wheel, find the green/yellow wire in the large bundle of wires just above the Ebrake (they are bundled together and all have a black heat shrink looking end on them) then right above that bundle you'll see another group of 4 wires, I forgot the colors, but there is a solid brown one in that group (the brown one is for upfitter switch #4). Just make a jumper wire about 3 or 4 inches long and connect the green/yellow to the brown wire. It works! The E-brake has to be set and the transmission in PARK. Mine revs up to about 1200 RPM. If you touch the brake pedal, it will cancell it out.

 

what is the advantage to this please explain I just picked up my 08 PSD tonight and I need all the help I can get

 

It runs the Engine RPM's up to support a PTO, air compressor, or to compensate for a big electric draw (think ambulance or fire apparatus with lots of lights)

 

In addition to the items pbeering, referred to, the main reason it is done by most PSD owners is to prevent wet stacking during extended idle times (longer than 10-minutes), and with the new emissions controlled diesel engines with an EGR system it helps prevent deposits and sticking of the EGR valve do to exteneded idling.

When a diesel engine idles it actually cools off (unlike a gas motor), diesel engines are not efficient when they are cool and incomplete combustion occurs resulting in deposits forming in the cylinders, on the valve stems (leading to sticking valves), EGR valve, VGT turbo vanes etc. Also do to the low engine temperatures as a result of extended idling, there is more unburned fuel which can wash down the cylinder walls and end up in the crankcase, diluting the oil and reducing the oils lubrication properties.

If you are going to idle your PSD for 10 minutes or more at a time you should do so at an elevated idle, to help eliminate these problems. Also if you hook up the high idle mod through the BCP circuit it will monitor the batteries and increase the idle to keep them fully charged.

The best approach to idling a diesel engine, especially modern ones with emissions control systems, is to idle as little as possible. You are much better off to just turn the motor off instead of letting it idle for extended periods.

As far as letting the truck and engine warm up before driving off, you are much better to not let it idle longer than a couple of minutes and just slowly drive off for the first couple of miles while things warm up. FMC has also programmed the PCM on the 6.0 & 6.4 to elevate the idle (Cold Weater-Idle up stategy) on a cold engine that is idling, to help reduce these problems.

"The diesel engine contains a unique, Cold Weather – Idle up feature,calibration strategy within the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). Under the appropriate conditions, the strategy will automatically elevate the engine idle speed after 130 seconds of idling
in cold ambient temperatures. For this feature to be activated the
truck must be in P (Park) (for automatic transmission), in neutral (for
manual transmission) with the park brake applied and engine oil
temperature below 158°F (70°C). This strategy raises the rpm to a level that reduces the potential to produce Coking or Wet Stacking,
which is common to all diesel engines when idling for extended
periods during cold ambient temperatures."
From the FMC "Diesel Supplement Manual"

 

From what I've read recently when you wire into PTO to get the 1200rpm's the torque converter locks up in the transmission torque converter thinking the trans will be working. That is on the 08's.

I don't think the trans torque converter locks up wired for the 900rpm option. I forget what they call that one.

The question is what will this do to the transmission idleing for long periods of time..I assume it puts wear on it normally not had at regular idle.

 

It does not matter if the torque converter is locked or not as far as wear is concerned. The reason for locking the TC is locked with the PTO function is so the transmission runs cooler while under the load of the PTO and turns the PTO gear.

If the BCP wire is used the TC is not locked and the idle varies from 1200-2500RPM depending on the load on the batteries.

This strategy has been the same on the SD since 1999.

 

can you do the same as described here on an '06 model with the 6.0?

 

Go to the 6.0 section of the forum, there are many threads on this, yes it can be done. The procedure is outlined in the 6.0 tech folder.

 

.......suck down a bunch of fuel

 

Thanks to Diesel Whisperer I just connected up my high idle on my F350 6.4 diesel. It would have taken me 5 minutes, but based on other information I was looking for an orange wire that wasn't there. Although for the literal minded people like myself, it was a yellow wire with green tracer.

Didn't have to remove any fuse box, and once I found the #4 brown upfitter blunt cut wire (bundle of 4 labeled AUX) and the PTO wires (bundle of about 16 blunt cut labeled PTO among other things) both above the parking brake, and cut the wire tie holding the PTO bundle to the main cable, the two wires (brown and Yellow-Green) were long enough to solder together without a jumper.

Also just had a Compustar alarm system put in with a diesel remote start and a turbo cool down timer.

 

Stupid question, but the simpler the task, the more likely I am to screw it up. When removing the cover under the steering wheel, is there any trick to it (tabs, start in one corner, etc.)? Does it pop off fairly easy or should I expect to apply a good amount of pressure? Because with my luck I'll force it in the wrong place and crack the thing.