I recently bought a 94 XLT with all the options. It has a 1356 electric trans case and auto hubs, so can I put manual hubs on instead as to free wheel the front to not make everything turn to get better gas milage. I was told, back up 30 feet and hubs should releast, what a pain. On the 8.8 rear, ford stated the L between the 3 and the 5 is a limited slip but they have no idea what kind. To the axle shaft, there is free play in and out of about a 1/4 inch, no up or down. I read a post on o-rings at the c-clips, is that to revent this play or is the play normal? Bronco graveyard has a front level kit of 1.5 to2 inch coils and bushings, it looks like that is too much to level the front. Also, on installing them do you leave the center pivot bolts in and after taking shocks loose does the coil just swing down and out after taking the bolt and strap off? I put 31's on instead of 235-75-15's what do I need to do if anything, I can see the speedo is off a few miles. Does the computer have to be redone someway. Oh I have new Mile marker manual hubs from my 79 bronco I am selling and would they work on the 94? Any help, Thanks Terril

 

I also drive a '94 bronco. i haven't been on in a while, but i will be getting on more frequently as summer approaches. i havent messed with my front suspension, but as far as your hubs go, i'm pretty sure the '79 ubs will work. i swaped out my auto hubs for a set of warn premium hubs. It is a very simple swap. im not sure what difference it makes, but ford made 3-bolt and 5-bolt auto hubs. i believe yours should be 5-bolt like mine were. the auto hubs work, and i don't think you will see any difference in milage from the swap, but I did mine simply for the reliability factor. you lock them in, and know they are locked, there's no guessing or hoping they will work, they just do. to take the old ones out, simply remove the 5 bolts and pull the cap off. insise there will be an inner ring on the axle shaft and an outer ring in the hub housing. to remove it, pinch the two tabs sticking out and then pull the whol inner hub out. the manual hubs slide back in, and you will have a new inner and outer ring, then just bolt on the caps. while you have it appart, i would suggest replacing, or atleast greasing your wheel bearings to save yourself any future trouble. another suggestion would be to swap the transfer case to a manual if you have any problems with it. i tried replacing my shift motor to the tune of $150 to no avail. the control modules and dash switches are near impossable to come by. last i check, a new switch would run $350, and there were only three left in all dealerships in the U.S.

 

THe electric shift is okay as long as you use it once in awhile to make sure it works, but the swap to manual isnt too hard it is probably easier than swapping a manual for an electric. THe play on your rear end is okay, if it gets worst you will need to either replace the axles or swap to a nine inch. Since you have the speedo in the rear end as well, you are going to have to replace the axles due to the nine not having that provision in the axle housing. I havent had too many issues with the auto hubs unlocking, more problems with them taking their time to lock up when I need them. 31s were optional tires for the broncos from the factory, so no you dont need to do anything special for them. 33s and larger require some mods and is covered in the FAQ section.

 

You mean the guy at the parts counter didn't know.

If he had bothered to look, he woulda found out that it's a.....

Ford WFL Traction Lock Rear Axle.

In the 1990/2002 Ford truck parts catalog, the parts list for thr WFL axle is #7.

 

31's werent an option from the factory. all broncos came stock off the floor with the 235 tires.

going to a 9" rear shouldnt even cross your mind. its to much of a hassel and the gains are very very small over the 8.8. if you want strength locate a sterling 10.25 that has the tone ring provision already there so its basicly a plugNplay setup. just make sure the gear ratio is the same. but again this is only if you need added strength for towing etc..
if you go thru and replace the diff fluid in the rear end which i highly suggest inspect the LS you have, they are prone to fail and if they do can sometimes take out the Ring & pinion which isnt cheap to fix. that rear diff will need a friction modifier to be added to the gear oil when you button it all back up.

I would continue to sell the milemarker hubs and get some warn premiums, lifetime warranty just cant be beat and there customer service is second to none.

there is a way to recalibrate your PSOM for that size tire do a search for this so your tranny has the correct info for shifting purposes etc.. Make sure you have a good tranny cooler on there and keep up on the fluid/filter changes. this will help the life of a very expensive tranny to have rebuilt if it happens.

Mine is a 94 also and my mods are in my signature. fill out your signature so we know what you have with out asking. the 31's should fit fine and shouldnt require the leveling kit, if you plan to tow at all the stock stance allows the bronco to be level when towing. if you get the level kit the front end will be high causing your headlights to point at the trees when towing.
If you want an improved ride a suspension lift is your best option. its amazing how much better mine handled with the better shocks and springs.

 

Not true....

 

thank you i stand corrected