I've my disc brakes and master cylinder installed [under the cab] and need to tie it all together. Naturaly I tossed the old ones approx 10 years ago so I'm not sure how they go. I would like to make them myself ,what would be the best tools and lines to get and how to go about it?

 

That's a big question with a lot of answers. There are a variety of ways to go from bending your own stainless down to buying the pre-fab steel lengths and make them fit. Everyone has their own preference.

I usually buy straight pre-fab lengths and when needed, cut them to length and re-flare one end to suit me. They aren't expensive and if you screw them up, it isn't the end of the world.

With Steel line they must be "Double Flared". I recommend you "Google" what you can to get smart about this. Let's face it, these are Brake lines. No mistakes are acceptable.

You need a good tube cutter, files to dress your cuts, a Flaring tool and in my opinion, a variety of tube bending tools. Each has it's use in certain applications.

You will notice that most all lines have extra length or circular bends, especially around Master Cylinders. This extra length allows for some flex so lines don't work harden and crack or loosen from vibration. Be sure to include some slack.

Buy some extra line for practice. Flaring and bending is not easy at first. You can invest a lot of time in a line and then screw up the bend or flare at the end and it's scrap. It will happen. Just part of the learning experience.

I recommend making some bend samples at various angles so you can pre-determine lengths you need when you get down to the final few bends.

You can never have enough frame clamps or line to line clamps either.

Hope this is helpful.

 

thankx I think I will look into some pre-fab linesDennis

 

Dennis,

if you decide to do your own.. this article might help you

plumbing disc brakes

Eman gave you some good info. It's not that hard with some practice with the flaring tool and bender. DON'T buy cheap tools here... they will only cause frustration from poor quality BUT in their defense, they will break something really expensive when thrown across the shop. Eastman makes a good flaring tool as does RIGID. I'd recommend a good mandrel type bender (see article). I really enjoyed doing mine.. now don't think I did it all perfectly the first time. I probably bent the lines from the master cylinder on the firewall down to the frame at least 4 or 5 times, till I got all the bends like I wanted them... and you'll leave off a couple of fittings and realize it just after you make that 90 degree bend but that is part of it too...

Eman mentioned stainless. Several issues here... #1 it's expensive #2 they don't use 45 degree double flares so all your fittings have to match the 37 degree single flares you use on SS. #3 you use a different flaring tool #4 it's harder to deal with then plain steel. #5 it's pretty with buffed up and coated, but if your truck isn't over mirrors at the WoW, who's gonna see it ??
#6 It's expensive.

You can buy the steel lines in rolls or pre measured lengths at good auto parts stores or from hot rod shops and both will make a very nice looking system for you...

As Eman said...this is no place to cut cost corners.. spend the cash and the right amount of time on this segment of the truck !!! do it yourself !! and have fun, plus you learn something new that you can impress your rodding buddies with and add something personally done to your ride... worth much more than a receipt from inline tube, inc. to me

later
John

 

To echo what the others have said; get good tool and do it yourself, great experience and it will make the final project results more rewarding.

This is one area I did early in my rebuild and I am thinking of redoing mine; I'm not happy with the look from the MC down to the frame. I used the power boost from a 1999 Explorer; it is tight between my inner fenders and the brake booster mounted on the firewall; my flex loops are very close to the inner fender.

Does anyone know of a supplier of 1/4" fittings that have 90 degree threaded and flare out ?

 

thankx guys I'm going to my local NAPA today Dennis

 

I think its time interject some reality into this discussion.....

1st, on your way to your friendly neighborhood parts store don't neglect the friendly neighborhood frosty beverage distributor (you will need a good supply of frosty beverages)

2nd, when you go buy the steel lines buy some extras. This will be real important when you make the obligatory screw ups and ruin several pieces of line just scant moments after the parts stores have closed for the day

3rd, since you thought ahead and now are the proud owner of extra line, start out by fabricating and bending up several complicated sections, carefully cut the line, follow all the directions to your double flaring tools, make the required flare, step back and start patting yoruself on the back while admiring your handiwork (OK, here is the important bit).......... .............look over on the edge of the bench....thats right, right over there.... .....is that??.... .....no, certainly not!.... ...it couldn't be.......... ....*#&%@# (insert your favorite expletives here--enough to make Yosemite Sam blush)........

...sure enough, sitting right there in plain site is the nut that should have been on the line BEFORE the flaring process.

4th, repeat above steps several times and at intemittant intervals in the whole brake line fabrication process.

5th, drop tools in disgust, imbibe a frosty beverage while marveling at just how many silly mistakes can be made while trying to make a simple steel line

Finally, (here's another important bit) Laugh at yourself! grab another section of line and get back to work.

Good luck, its actually fairly easy and can be quite rewarding (once its all said and done)
Bobby

 

Yeah, I know I dug up an old old thread but this is exactly what I was looking for. Brake lines for dummies. Thanks, for that link to the brake line article. Just what I needed.

 

What bobbytnm said Re: step #3 , absolutely essential you do this a couple a dozen times in your career to ensure you get it right and adequately expand your vocabulary .

 

I found it handy to straighten out a coat hanger, then bend it the way it should go, and then make my tubing match it. I also bought pre-made lengths at a brake house. That way I only had to flare one end.

 

I just got finished with mine. Bought the long straight pieces with fittings already installed.Took two pieces for the length of the frame with inverted union to connect them together. another piece for the rearend with an inveted Tee fitting and braided hose to connect . In front went with another short piece to a tee and split it to the other side . Nailed it all down with billet speacialty split clamps every foot or so. Tricky bending at first , but once you get going it gets easier. When you double flare your cuts preperation is the key. Straight cuts, drill bit to ream the inside cut ,file on the outside a drop of lube before the flare and your done. Inspect your flare and if no splits put it on and tighten down. You Tube has some good how to videos . Good luck!

 

The last brake lines set I did were for a 1966 Mustang disc brake swap. I managed to screw a few pieces up, but the cost was about $40-50, versus buying the "kit" which my neighbor did for another 66 Mustang. His cost about $220, and his came in a small box. Meaning yes a few things were "pre-bent", and then to fit them in the small they mailed them in, the bent them the rest of the way.

So your choice. Plus, trying to figure out how to run the brake lines is you choice. If you have a firewall mounted master cylinder yours will be different, and if you changed the transmission and are not using the stock crossmember, the prefab lines might not work either.