Toyota PS box reseal?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 892
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From: Western Massachusetts
Toyota PS box reseal?
Should I replace all the seals in my new/used 1985 Toyota PS box before I use it? I don't know much about it's condition other that the guy who sold it to me said it was working when he parked the truck. I am thinking I may have ruined the sector shaft seal. In efforts (yet unsuccessful!!) to get the pitman arm off in one piece, I have used liberal amounts of penetrating oil and it may have hurt the seal?? Does anyone have seal part numbers? How about "how to" instructions to replace the seals. The sector shaft seal looks like it woud be hard to get at as it is recessed into the housing. Thank you.
turnrjr
turnrjr
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
You are good to go on the box. Penetrating oil will not hurt the seal, but won't help get the arm and nut off either. I even broke a vise trying to get mine off by unscrewing it. Either Toyota uses a strong thread locker or has Godzilla tightening the nuts! I finally used a cutoff wheel in my angle grinder to cut a slot in both the nut and arm as deep as I could without hitting the shaft, and used a cold chisel and BFH to finish splitting them. Fortunately my Mid Fifty installation kit included a new shaft nut with the new pitman arm.
I don't have the part #s but the seals as well a a full rebuild kit is available from NAPA or CarQuest. Don't dissassemble the box unless you have to (I don't think you need to dissassemble it to replace the pitman shaft seal, altho I haven't changed mine and won't unless it leaks), then be real careful and work over a large deep container like a cardboard box. The recirculating ***** inside are loose and will spill out if you open up the box, and they bounce and roll a LONG ways.
I don't have the part #s but the seals as well a a full rebuild kit is available from NAPA or CarQuest. Don't dissassemble the box unless you have to (I don't think you need to dissassemble it to replace the pitman shaft seal, altho I haven't changed mine and won't unless it leaks), then be real careful and work over a large deep container like a cardboard box. The recirculating ***** inside are loose and will spill out if you open up the box, and they bounce and roll a LONG ways.
Last edited by AXracer; Dec 25, 2006 at 12:24 PM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,575
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From: Greenville, SC
I rebuilt ours. I bought a rebuild kit and AX is right, those ***** will go everywhere. I heated the pitman to get it off, it is a real tight fit. Replacing the seals and orings is easy, but getting all those ***** back where they go was a real test of my patience. The kit came with instructions. My memmory is slipping, but I think the rebuild kit was around $120.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
But don't heat it unless you are planning on replacing the seal! If the seal shows no signs of leaking, i.e. wet and oily/grimey around the pitman shaft, I'd recommend cracking the nut and arm instead, it took about 5 min to get them off. I used the cutoff wheel at a shallow angle to not hit the housing. Use the cold chisel at an angle to the shaft in the slot on the nut like you are trying to unscrew it, it wil either crack or unscrew. On the arm, place a heavy cold chisel straight into the slot so it is wedging the slot open. A couple good hits should crack the arm. A new nut is inexpensive and I'd replace it anyway if I had heated it, and there is no reason to try and save the arm.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Gatesville, TX
Ax is right. I just put a box in my 49. The nut came off OK with an impact wrench, but the arm was another story. I cut through the top part of the arm with a cuttoff grinder. I cut straight down towards the shaft and as close to all the way to the shaft as I could. Put a chisel in the slot and a light whack split it and I could pull it off. Bought a new arm from mid fiftys. Everything worked out good.
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Actually, not much happened to my seal during the heating process. I changed it because it was leaking anyway and that is the reason the pitnam arm had to come off. After the heat and the change of the seal it doesn't leak anymore and all is fine. I bet if you had a really good puller the pitnam arm would come right off. Anyway heating worked good for me and the seal is significantly cheaper than the pitman arm. I'm not sure that I would cut it off unless it was last resort. But hey, do whatever, either way your going to have it fixed. Merry Christmas.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by T.R.Bauer
Actually, not much happened to my seal during the heating process. I changed it because it was leaking anyway and that is the reason the pitnam arm had to come off. After the heat and the change of the seal it doesn't leak anymore and all is fine. I bet if you had a really good puller the pitnam arm would come right off. Anyway heating worked good for me and the seal is significantly cheaper than the pitman arm. I'm not sure that I would cut it off unless it was last resort. But hey, do whatever, either way your going to have it fixed. Merry Christmas.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Western Massachusetts
Thanks for the input guys. The nut came off ok but looks like I will have to do the cut/split think for the rest. I wanted the option to make my own pitman arm so I can the $100 for a new one elseware on her. Bob
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
Steering and braking are two areas you don't want to try to save a few bucks IMHO. How much is your life and the lives of family friends and innocent bystanders worth? The price of dinner for two? Unless you have the machining capabilities and are a certified welder with a heavy enough welding machine to handle 1/2" steel, you aren't going to save any significant amount of money DIY.
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