Alternator Alternitives
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Texas
Alternator Alternitives
I went to start my truck this morning, and got the dreaded Click click clickity click!
I just replaced the wiring for the charging system a few weeks ago, and a carefull inspection shows it's still fine, I just have no juice. The altinator's bearings have squealed when it was cold since I bought the thing, and I figure its time to replace it.
I would rather do a single wire altinator conversion that put another lightweight unit in there. The part stores around here don't have listings for an alternator like that, and say they can't look one up unless they have the year and model of the vehicle I want. So what I need to know is what altinators I can use to beef up my system, and what cars or trucks used them? my goal is 80 amp but higher is fine
I just replaced the wiring for the charging system a few weeks ago, and a carefull inspection shows it's still fine, I just have no juice. The altinator's bearings have squealed when it was cold since I bought the thing, and I figure its time to replace it.
I would rather do a single wire altinator conversion that put another lightweight unit in there. The part stores around here don't have listings for an alternator like that, and say they can't look one up unless they have the year and model of the vehicle I want. So what I need to know is what altinators I can use to beef up my system, and what cars or trucks used them? my goal is 80 amp but higher is fine
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I think the one wire that you are referring to is a GM alt. that some guys have converted to.
Sounds like the battery is dead, get it charged up and drive the truck to your local parts house and they will test both the battery and alt. for you.
Alts. can be purchased with different outputes, however with nothing more than reg. equipment you don't need a high outpute unit. IMHO
John
Sounds like the battery is dead, get it charged up and drive the truck to your local parts house and they will test both the battery and alt. for you.
Alts. can be purchased with different outputes, however with nothing more than reg. equipment you don't need a high outpute unit. IMHO
John
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2002
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In the 1980s ford used the same three wire units that even bolt in the same way yet they ahve a higher amperage rating. Rather than switch to the GM alternator, get a one wire kit from Summit racing or use a 3rd generation alternator from Ford. They are the best and have the highest amp ratings plus they have a built-in regulator. Not sure if there is a direct bolt in unit, but the one from a 1992 Ford Thunderbird is a fine unit and with very little modifications it should bolt in.
I would agree that the battery is dead, so your alternator might just be fine. Even those old school Ford alternators can get the job done for many, many years, so don't get too excited about trashing it - you might just be opening another new can of worms.
I would agree that the battery is dead, so your alternator might just be fine. Even those old school Ford alternators can get the job done for many, many years, so don't get too excited about trashing it - you might just be opening another new can of worms.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
read this first..www.madelectrical.com you may have a different opinion of 1 wire alternators...made me rethink what I was planning
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From: Texas
Battery tests good, Altinator is working fine now. But this has happened before, and the squealing bearings are enough reason replace it.
MAD Electric makes a good case for the three wire, but they seem to be trying to sell their kit. Still, 3 wire is better. Mainly for the advantage of an alt Light.
Not modifying my system would be nice. Do these 1980's altinators use the same style external voltage regulators as my 66?
MAD Electric makes a good case for the three wire, but they seem to be trying to sell their kit. Still, 3 wire is better. Mainly for the advantage of an alt Light.
Not modifying my system would be nice. Do these 1980's altinators use the same style external voltage regulators as my 66?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
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From: Winchendon MA
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From: Texas
Thanks for the great advice advice, I decided to go with a Ford 3 wire. It ended up being my alternator. It being one of the 55 amp units, couldn't handle the load. The rating on an Alternator is it's peak capacity, but it only makes that at full RPM, and the waymost ratios on belts are, it never quite reaches full RPM at engine redline. thats due to the manufacturers trying to keep them from overspinning. The end result is an alternator making 40-50% of it's capacity at road speeds. Swapping to a bigger alternator will allow it to produce more at lower RPM, and let the alternator run cooler, so it lasts longer.
DL73031 is a 100 amp that almost bolts in. I had to make a bracket for the adjuster. I used a chebby 350 chome peice I found at Autozine for $10 and cut 4 inches off the non adjuster end. Its a perfect fit for the larger body alternator. As for the wiring, I had to crimp on 2 blade stlye connectors, but the posts are labled the same as the old unit, so wiring it was a no-brainer.
Now when I'm idling, my headlights don't get dimmer. I'll post pics once I get the wiring cleaned up.
DL73031 is a 100 amp that almost bolts in. I had to make a bracket for the adjuster. I used a chebby 350 chome peice I found at Autozine for $10 and cut 4 inches off the non adjuster end. Its a perfect fit for the larger body alternator. As for the wiring, I had to crimp on 2 blade stlye connectors, but the posts are labled the same as the old unit, so wiring it was a no-brainer.
Now when I'm idling, my headlights don't get dimmer. I'll post pics once I get the wiring cleaned up.
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