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Does this sound like a good teen car?

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Old 06-23-2005, 09:52 PM
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Does this sound like a good teen car?

So I'm looking at a 92 explorer that now has 135k on it. 4.0ohv 5 speed manual new tires good brakes, everything works on the truck except for the door locks. The tranny makes noise the input shaft bearing is wasted (stick), the exhaust needs to be redone and maybe a driver side fender. Everything else seems solid. Does this souns like it would be a good summer project for somebody? I could get it for about 800 bucks. Then use it or maybe my sister would take it up to school with her. Are these reliable trucks with not many problems or what? If she takes it she dosen't need a car that will be real real nice she shouldn't have to drive much it would just be something to knock around in when she needs it.
 
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Old 06-24-2005, 01:10 AM
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It could be if you are willing to do all the wrenching required to get it going again. I think $800's a little steep for something needing that much work. Maybe 500 tops.
 
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Old 06-24-2005, 02:23 AM
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It's hard to say if this is a good value or not. Is it in good shape - interior, paint, dents, rust...? Does the owner have maintenance records?

I have a 93, bought it new, has 168K miles on it now. I was just telling my wife tonight how impressed I am with it in general. It's been a real stellar performer. But then again, I have done all the mainteneance on it (unless it was free under warranty) and I have never let an oil change, tire rotation or any other basic maintenance item slip.

Given that, I have been sticking a lot of time and money into over the last 3-4 years. Let's see, it was paid off in 1998. So I got 2-3 years of putting nothing into it except gas and oil basically. So a little maintenance for a 12 year old car should be expected.

Here's what you are in for and you do the labor:
1-Clean MAF sensor. Cost $0
2-Do a basic tune-up. Unless you know these components have been recently changed. Plugs, wires, PCV valve, O2 Sensors, ail filter, gas filter would be prudent too. cost about $200
3-If this is a 4WD, rebuild the electric shift transfer case motor. Cost $0. Let me know and I will give you the instructions. And don't buy a new $200-$400 assembly from a dealer.
4-Bushings, bushings, bushings. Mainly the radius arm. This is the arm, 2 of them, that connect the front independent I-beams to the middle of the truck. The I-beams go up and down and pivot on the end of the radius arms. Like sticking your arm out and flexing at the elbow. Your elbow is the anchor and your hand is holing the I-beam. So after a while your elbow wears out. As do the radius arm bushings. This you can do for a cost of $40 I guess. I used polyurethane ones. I think they were $40. but the procedure is a bit evasive. Let me know on this too and I'll send you directions.
5- High road speed shake/shimmy. Many possible reasons for this. i've been plauged with it for about 4 years now. Some fix with new driveshaft u-joints - $30. Some change the radius arm bushings to fix it. Some change motor mounts - I haven't even priced those yet - I guess $50 each. Some even say the exit shaft from the trans or the transfer case (2 vs 4 WD) comes loose on the inside and has to be disassembled and retightened. I saw one guy fix it by repacking his front wheel bearings and correctly torquing them down. (Baisc's here guys!) Now Ford came up with a few goofy engineering solutions. Ans some warranty TSB's to fix went out. One is to add a big *** weight, a balancer, on the transfer case and on the rear diff. Mine came with them both as it was then standard for a 1993 model. Another is to change the motor mounts (different rubber I guess) and add a goofy shock absorber between the frame and rear axel - in the middle I guess. I've never actuallt seen this fix. Well after a few months Ford pulled this option as a fix because it didn't work. Gee, I wish I knew more possible causes because I still have the shakes!
6+ - You can check the threads in here to get an idea of what else goes on. There are a few complaints about fuel pumps, oil leaks, intake manifold loose bolts, leaky head gaskets....This is why it would be good to know the maintenance history of the vehicle.
7 or so - I forgot one. Manual transmission are great. I love mine. But there was a problem with 3 access ports at the top, rear of the trans that are used to align the shifter rods. When they are set, the Mazda experts stuck a rubber plug in the hole. Now if they used Viton rubber it would probably be OK as it can go up to 500 degrees F. But they used regular old Buna rubber which takes a crap at 250 degrees F. So most people have gotten 50K to 70K miles before their transmission tells them they need a tow truck, and not tomorrow but right now. The seals crack and go away and so do the trans fluid. Again - depending on maintenance records, this may need doing. It's a pain, not hard but a pain. I can give you these directions too. Cost is about $20. By the way for those who actually read my crap - Mazda 5 speeds take Mercon 3, auto trans fluis.

Now for your little project here, you realize summer is 1/2 over now (except for Phoenix where I live - it'll end in November). You need to asses the rest of the vehicle condition. What I have told you is the untold truths of early Explorers. Check out the brakes, belt (only 1) hoses, vacuum lines, oil deposits in/around the engine, transmission leaks, rear main seal leaks, water pump noise, AC condition - clutch is a guess.

So do you have the time? Do you have the money? Do you want 15MPG city and maybe 18 on the road when you do all the work I mentioned?

If you have access to a scanner - maybe Autozone will loan you one - you should test the PCM for any codes. If it indicates some problems, you can tell the owner that this thing needs a lot of work, all I can give you is $500.

When all this is considered, it is not use who can tell you if this is a good project. You need to assess your cost/benefit ROI analysis. But I am interested in your decision and if you go for it, keep us posted on the progress. If I were me and knew what I do now at say 18 years old, I'd offer the guy $400 and get to work...but that's just me.
 
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Old 06-24-2005, 10:54 PM
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Great advice given by jharger, i also have a 92 explorer which i got a few years back, now has 177,000 miles and still running strong, it has never left me on the side of the road, i never had th rubber thing that jharger is speaking of go on my tranny, it is a manual, engine runs like its brand new, always starts right up, even in extremeley cold weather at least for ct 8 degrees, again just reg. maintence and these things will last forever i know there is someone here who has over 300k on origional motor and tranny
 
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Old 06-25-2005, 05:51 PM
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Are you able to test drive it? If so drive it and see how it handles, take it on the highway, pass a few cars.

I bought my Explorer when it was about 3 years old and still have it with about 160,000 or so miles now, it's a 91.

I have the auto not manual trans but the auto is still going strong. Is this a 4x4? If so you'll need to update the hubs to manual. It's easy and cost around $150 unless prices went up. The auto hubs don't last and cost way more than manual. The exhaust.. I replaced mine from after the cat to rear for around $90, didn't last a year, rusted. I changed to aftermarket parts and a whole lot better. 90 to 94 is known to have that tick tick tick tick tick sound comming from the engine. I bought new rockers but didn't work, the tappets needed to be replaced and after replacing the rockers, I didn't want to pull the heads off. Engine still runs fine with the tick tick tick.. lol.
Fuel pump relay may stick leading to a dead battery.

I may not get the best mpg still has some small problems here and there but I'm happy with my jacked up 5" lift, 32" tires (33" super swampers too) off roading Explorer

If body is ok, doesn't blow smoke and your gut doesn't say well, hey $800 well talk em down to $700 anyway I'd say go for it.

Oh forgot, check the drive shaft. My rear joint went on me on the highway, no 4x4ing. Other than that thumbs up here.
 
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