I have a 95 XLT 4 door. Two of the power windows don't work, two do. (The Driver's and the rear passenger don't work.) I've replace the fuse in the Power Distribution Box, and the Power Window/lock/seat relay. No change.

I've removed the One Push Down relay, but the other two windows still work.

I've disconnected each of the door's switches - again no change in functionality.

As best I can tell, there are no other electrical problems (wipers, power seats, lights, radio, locks, etc. all work).

I think I'm down to the GEM module behind the radio. The local dealership doesn't carry it, and they want $250 to order it. Before I shell out that kind of cash, I'd like to make sure that it will solve the problem. Anyone have any suggestions? Is there a way I can bypass it to raise the windows?

TIA

 

Does your wiring diagram show that voltage to the other switches is supplied from the drivers door switch. Thats what the wiring diagram shows for my 95 Taurus.

 

Do you have 12 volts on one of the wires to the motor when hitting the down button?

 

I haven't been able to check the voltage at the motor as to get to it I have to remove the speakers. Even then, I'm not sure I can get to it as it is buried in the steel hollow portion of the door. But, if there were voltage there, then the windows would most likely move, or something. Right now, nothing is happening, except I can hear the relay clicking on the One Push Down when I try to lower the Driver's door.


I did try to 'reset' any computer chips (GEM) that might be involved by disconnecting the battery today. No Change.

Thank you for all your help!
Rob

 

You shouldn't need to pull the motor out of the door to test the voltage. When you pull the door panel off, there should be a connector that you can use to test the voltage. When I tested mine, I just straightened a paperclip and shoved it in the back of the connector. In my Ex, there was 9 volts on one wire, and 3 on the other. There was a short in the motor so it wasn't dropping the voltage needed to move the motor.

Matt

 

I did check the voltage at the switches. It is 12 volts on the center spoke. The Master switch jumpers that to the other spokes that need it (Checked continuity there). It looks like the switches are OK.

I also swapped out a unlock switch that was the same as the back door window switch with no joy.

Given that the voltages look correct, that implies that it may not be the GEM. The other alternatives that I see are the wiring harnesses. It seems strange that two wires would fail simultaneously. Finding the failure looks to be a real pain, too.

Thank you for all your help. I'm still listening and willing to check anything...

 

maa139, it looks like I might have your problem. I have 12 volts across the wires at the motor. How did you fix it? Replace have to the motor? Did you have a short from the motor to ground, or from one wire to the next?

Seems strange that 2 would fail at the same time...

 

I haven't been into a door panel lately, but I know the plastic mounts for those switches are notorious for cracking and failing.

Can you rig a set of temporary test wires from a working motor & switch combo (your front passenger door) over to one that's suspect (the driver's door)? Doing so would at least test the motor.

JS

 

I just checked the motor resistances. Wire to wire is a short - that's good. But from one of the wires to ground is also a short. I think that is bad.

 

Disregard my last entry. I was checking the wrong end.

Wire to wire is a short - good. Wire to ground is open, also good.

Everything checks out electrically. This window (the rear) has a history of sticking. Looks like that is what it has done again. Now, if only I can figure out how to unstick it...

Does anyone know if there are gears involved in these motors? If so, maybe one has jammed on the teeth of the meshed gear...

And I still have to go through all this on the front window...

TIA

 

All the switch does is reverse the polarity to the window motor. When you operate the switch you should see voltage on the black ground wire at the switch. Might want to check for that.

 

Everything checks electrically. I just found a large gear on the driver side motor. It has no play - it is probably jammed. Any suggestions how to move it without breaking the glass (the window is down, so it is in the way...)

TIA

 

Well, I pulled the door panel and took the picture, so I'm going to post it anyway....

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=80440&.jpg

I'd still like to see the results of a voltage check on these two wires. Take a measurement of each wire to ground with the window button pressed. One should have 12, the other none.

 

I get 12 volts to ground with the window button down. When I switch to up, the other wire has 12 volts and the first has nothing. The interior lights dim when the motor is connected and a button is pushed, which tells me that it is drawing current, as it should.

I think that the window regulator has over extended or otherwise jammed its gears... The passenger rear window has a history of doing this. This is the first time that the front one has.

TIA