I've got a 1990 full size Bronco and the PDL don't work. Also I can roll down both windows from the drivers side but not from the passenger side. I've replaced both window motors and both PDL actuators and the switches on both doors and still the same thing. What am I missing?

 

I know this will sound dumb, but before anything else... have you checked the fuses?.

 

Yeah, that was the first thing I checked before I replaced the motors actuators and switches. I'm thinking It must be a bad connection somewhere in the wiring harness but I can't find anything. I was hoping that this was a common problem and someone would have the magic answer.

 

The power that feeds the windows and door locks typically feeds the passenger side FIRST, then runs across the truck to the driver's side. With all of those components replaced (assuming they are all seated and the terminals were cleaned prior to installing them back into the connectors in the wiring harness) you are dealing with an internal wiring issue.

There are a series of voltage checks you can do to eliminate possible causes and reveal trouble spots.

The BLACK/WHITE wire is the power feed from Circuit Breaker #12 to the door lock switches. It should have power all the time at both door switches.

The LT.BLUE/BLACK wire is the power feed from Circuit Breaker #14 to the window switches. It should have power any time the key is in the ON, ACCESSORY, or RUN positions. All four power window switches should have power (the fourth being the dashboard tailgate window switch). Make certain you have power at these wires at the back of every switch first.

When you push the door lock switch to "LOCK" you should get power at the PINK/LT. GREEN wire in the driver door and the PINK/ORANGE wire in the passenger door.
When you push the door lock switch to "UNLOCK" you should get power at the BLACK/ORANGE wire in the driver door and the PINK/BLACK wire in the passenger door.
Driver window switches "UP" power should be present at the YELLOW wire for the driver window and the YELLOW/BLACK wire for the passenger window (this wire is IN the driver door coming from the passenger window switch).
Driver Window switches "DOWN" power should be present at the RED wire for the driver window and the RED/BLACK wire for the passenger window (this wire is IN the driver door coming from the passenger window switch).
Passenger window switch "UP" power at the YELLOW/RED wire.
Passneger window switch "DOWN" power at the RED/YELLOW wire.

A test light or meter with one lead firmly attached to a good negative and probing each terminal for the wire you are testing will let you check any/all of this for proper operation. Make certain you are pressing the switch the right direction when testing. When you get to something that doesn't show battery voltage with the activation of the switch, you can troubleshoot the connections at the switch and the wiring itself. Make certain the key is ON when checking the window circuits.

 

THANKS!! That's exactly what I needed to know! I'm going to tear into it this weekend and see what I can find.

 

My stepson had a similar problem with a 1994 Bronco he just bought. Fixed it by replacing the switches from parts from a junk yard.

 

Finding parts in a junkyard is next to impossible around here. there are about 15 yards within 50 miles and only 2 of them have Broncos and the trucks have literally been stripped to the frame and tub. I guess they are a popular truck.

 

The switches in the F-series and E-series trucks of similar vintage are identical so even if you can't find a Bronco, the switches from these trucks should swap in. The tailgate dashboard switch is slightly different but a regular window switch can be made to work.

 

Hey! I never thought about that. Thanks.