No Crank, No Start - not the usual suspects.
Hello All, long time member who took a hiatus. Now I am back with an interesting, "intermittent" no crank no start.
Truck is a 2008 F-150, 5.4L Lariat 4wd Crew with the 6 foot bed. 90,9xx miles and from what I can tell, a relatively easy life for Alaska.
I bought the truck in late October and was able to drive it around a bit starting in late November due to it being at the detailers for a mold remediation issue. Truck started consistently, then it didn't start one day, acted like a dying battery and the truck had been sitting for at least a year so I chalked it up to a bad battery and didn't think anything of it. I assume a new battery is part of every vehicle acquisition, I lump it in with new fluids, etc. so I replaced the battery. We had a warm for us fall /early winter, everything was fine until the weather got colder then it started no crank no starting. I have been slowly messing with it and this is where I am currently.
- Not PATS, key proves out. Red light flashing, solid, then out.
- Not a relay, verified all relays in the passenger kick panel are working. Actuating and also passing current.
- Not a fuse, verified all fuses in the passenger kick panel are working, and the problem is intermittent.
- Start sequence runs out as it should, can hear the relays clicking, and fuel pump is priming consistently. It just doesn't attempt to crank at all.
- Pulled the PCM and brought it inside to warm while the rest of the truck remained cold. (saw a post about a crack in the PCM solder that would separate enough when cold) No change, still no crank no start.
- Starter was replaced within the last 600 miles by a shop for the previous owner. Notes from that visit, state that the old starter was pulling 475 amps so they replaced it. No indication if they tested any of the wiring to the starter.
- Solenoid signal wire is getting a sloid 12v+ when attempting to crank
- Positive between battery and starter shows same voltage as battery. Same wire ohmed out at 0.03 (battery disconnected, tested from battery end of the positive wire to starter stud) seems high for less than 3 feet of wire, but would not think that 0.03 ohms is enough resistance to cause a no crank no start.
- No clear correlation (that I can tell) to when it will or won't start.
- I have started it at -40°F first time and had it not start at +10°F. Although, so far, if it does start the first time, it will restart again, at least within 3 hours.
- Appears to only be a cool/cold weather issue, did not start doing this until after the temps were consistently below freezing.
When it does start, it starts good and strong.When it does crank, it starts, and starts normally. No extended or slow cranking.- Zero codes in the PCM for anything start or PATS related
Last edited by Cyanide6; Feb 11, 2026 at 12:02 PM. Reason: for clarity, and to thank people for any ideas or thoughts.
Truck is a 2008 F-150, 5.4L Lariat 4wd Crew with the 6 foot bed. 90,9xx miles and from what I can tell, a relatively easy life for Alaska.
I bought the truck in late October and was able to drive it around a bit starting in late November due to it being at the detailers for a mold remediation issue. Truck started consistently, then it didn't start one day, acted like a dying battery and the truck had been sitting for at least a year so I chalked it up to a bad battery and didn't think anything of it. I assume a new battery is part of every vehicle acquisition, I lump it in with new fluids, etc. so I replaced the battery. We had a warm for us fall /early winter, everything was fine until the weather got colder then it started no crank no starting. I have been slowly messing with and this is where I am currently.
- Not PATS, key proves out. Red light flashing, solid, then out.
- Not a relay, verified all relays in the passenger kick panel are working
- Not a fuse, verified all fuses in the passenger kick panel are working, and the problem is intermittent.
- Start sequence runs out as it should, can hear the relays clicking, and fuel pump is priming consistently. It just doesn't attempt to crank at all.
- Pulled the PCM and brought it inside to warm while the rest of the truck remained cold. (saw a post about a crack in the PCM solder that would separate enough when cold) No change, still no crank no start.
- Starter was replaced within the last 600 miles by a shop for the previous owner. Notes from that visit, state that the old starter was pulling 475 amps so they replaced it. No indication if they tested any of the wiring to the starter.
- Solenoid signal wire is getting a sloid 12v+ when attempting to crank
- Positive between battery and starter shows same voltage as battery. Same wire ohmed out at 0.03 (battery disconnected, tested from battery end of the positive wire to starter stud) seems high for less than 3 feet of wire, but would not think that 0.03 ohms is enough resistance to cause a no crank no start.
- No clear correlation to when it will or won't start.
- I have started it at -40°F first time and had it not start at +10°F. Although, so far, if it does start the first time, it will restart again, at least within 3 hours.
- Appears to only be a cool/cold weather issue, did not start doing this until after the temps were consistently below freezing.
- When it does start, it starts good and strong.
- Zero codes in the PCM for anything start or PATS related
Last edited by Hoghntr; Feb 11, 2026 at 10:50 AM.
All the old fuel was removed from the truck prior to getting it up and running again, and it has been filled with fresh fuel from a high volume station. Lucky for us, we don't have gasohol in most of Alaska.
Last edited by Cyanide6; Feb 11, 2026 at 12:04 PM. Reason: again clarity
All this to say, are you really in P or N when you think you are?
All the old fuel was removed from the truck prior to getting it up and running again, and it has been filled with fresh fuel from a high volume station. Lucky for us, we don't have gasohol in most of Alaska.
Last edited by Hoghntr; Feb 11, 2026 at 03:30 PM.
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You're going to need to test both the battery feed as well as the ground circuit UNDER LOAD. If both pass, pretty likely it's a bad starter.
Old fart's tip that was learned the hard way: Never leave the parts store with a starter or alternator until you've seen it tested on the bench. I've had more than my fair share of bad parts straight from behind the counter and this has saved my bacon a couple of times.
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