OK, For starters, I replaced my "BRAKE SYSTEM" TO INCLUDE, NEW FRONT ROTORS , NEW PADS,(FRONT AND BACK) NEW EMERGENCY BRAKE PADS , VACUUM BOOSTER, MASTER CYLINDER, A NEW LF BRAKE LINE, . THEN AFTER BLEEDING, IT TOOK IT FOR A TEST DRIVE. THE CALIPERS WERE LOCKING UP AFTER 1/4 MILE TEST, BARELY COULD GET HOME. DID THIS A COUPLE TIMES..OK, THOUGHT I HAD A BAD CALIPER. THINKING IT WAS THE FRONT RIGHT I REPLACED IT, AND TO BE DONE WITH IT, PUT A NEW R. REAR ON TOO,, (AS i JUST COULDN'T TELL WHICH WAS LOCKING UP? . BLED THE SYSTEM, TEST DROVE , STILL LOCKING UP, SPRAYED WATER ON THE L. FRONT, WAS SMOKING HOT, SO REPLACED THAT CALIPER TOO, ( AND IT HAS A NEW BRAKE LINE, REPLACED WHEN DOING THE PADS
OUT FOR ANOTHER TEST, AGAIN, IT IS LOCKING UP, SO WHEN i GOT BACK TO THE DRIVEWAY, ....... i SPRAYED WATER ON THE FRONT AND REAR WHEELS, THE 3 WITH NEW PADS, ROTORS , AND CALIPERS, WERE ALL SMOKIN HOT, , WHICH WHEN TEST DRIVING BARELY GETS YOU HOME.
WHAT IS THE f*** ING PROBLEM.
WHEN REMOVING THE WHEELS, AND PULLING THE CALIPERS, FOR REPLACEMENT, THE ROTORS TURN FREELY NO BINDING , ONLY AFTER TEST DRIVING DOES EVERYTHING GET HOT, AND START LOCKING UP?
SO..... AM STARTING TO THINK THAT EITHER i HAVE THE WRONG PADS, THERE IS NOT MUCH MORE TO REPLACE. THE TRUCK WAS FINE,,,,, WHEN I DECIDED TOO REPLACE THE PADS, AND ROTORS ON THE FRONT. HAD A LEAKY LF BRAKE LINE, SO STARTED REPLACING THE WHOLE SYSTEM.....????
SO OPEN TO TAKING OPINIONS, AS IT SHOULDN'T BE THIS DIFFICULT.....TO CHANGE A BRAKE SYSTEM WITH ALL NEW COMPONENTS, AND HAVE THIS.

WHEN COOL, AND TAKING FOR A TEST DRIVE, i PUT IT IN NEUTRAL, AND COAST, NO NOISE ROLLS EASILY. ONLY AFTER YOU DRIVE IT A HALF MILE, DO YOU NOTICE THAT IT NO LONGER COASTS, AND STARTING TO LOCK UP, AND YOU BARELY CAN GET IT HOME, WITHOUT SITTING ON THE ROAD, DUE TO ALL THE CALIPERS, LOCKING TO THE ROTORS??????

COULD IT BE, THAT EVEN WITH A NEW MASTER CYLINDER, I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE ADJUSTMENT ON THE ROD? i HAVE "NEVER" HAD TO ADJUST ONE BEFORE, (NEW OUT OF THE BOXl AS THESE ARE SPECIFIC FOR YOUR MODEL, AND THERE IS NO DRAG ON THE TRUCK WHEN ROLLING IN NEUTRAL? AND HAVE WHAT FEELS LIKE SOME PEDAL, BEFORE YOU FEEL PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE PEDAL?

 

brakes drag for one reason... Hydraulic pressure pushes out the pucks and they dont come back .... this can be caused by the puck STICKING in the bore ( trash gets stuck to them when you put in new brakes and have to push the pucks back deeper into the bore).... other cause is oil can not go back thru the HOSE and brake line to the master cylinder.. Hoses have been known to colapse inside and make a little Flapper Valve the works as a one way check valve....... Normally you will get one of the above on ONE BRAKE.... IF you have this on MULTIPLE BRAKES it either a LOT of contamination on the pucks, or the oil can not get back into the master cylinder when the pedal is released.......... rod length pushing on the master cylinder piston is a definite possibility..

 

set in the driveway with a coulpe tires off the ground.. see that they rotate easily.... press on the pedel a few times and then check again...

 

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder? On thing I like to do is get a small vacuum by air break bleeder they are $30 bucks usually holds a quart. I like to go to the farthest wheel from the master cylinder and pull all the old fluid while adding new until you get new fluid coming into your vacuum canister then move on to the next further bleeder and repeat the same steps until you have all new fluid in whole system. This will remove any debris and old break fluid has water in it and if you have water in the fluid and after brakes get hot the water boils and will lock up brakes

 

Not trying to insult intelligence, even though new, have you checked for good lube on the caliper slider rods?

 

Offending wheel in the air. push on the brake pedal with it running.. Let off the pedal. Does the wheel spin free? No? Push on the brake again, and let off. Crack the bleeder. Does it squirt, or just seep.. Squirt mean master is still sending pressure. Seep and still the wheel doesnt spin free then the caliper itself is the issue... Slide or junk in the cylinder. Also, If its squirts, check the bracket on the spindle that the hose goes thought.. Bend it open so that the hose isn't clamped by the bracket.