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This looks interesting. Wonder if it filters any better than stock or is just easier. Seems like it coulda been designed as a dual filter setup but then again Im no engineer. I do like it though as my stock water seperator drain basically doesnt work.
What is wrong with your factory setup? I'm keeping mine as is because that aftermarket job does not use a water sensor and you will be going along fat, dumb, and happy pumping water up to the HPFP. And I can open the drain without twisting the valve off. But I have extras just in case. I don't know, but this looks the same as those commercials where a gal is making spaghetti and it somehow ends up on the ceiling and that is why you need the K-Tel spaghetti tube.
Looks like the water sensor is still there on the bottom of the billet plate. Before it gets to filter. Might be good that way so it goes off before filtering not during. Ive never been able to get more than a spit outa my drain. I open it every couple weeks and its always the same. I do filters every 10k and only twice have they been dirty. Never any water.
Check out the SPE drain valve for the factory setup. Replaced the cheap plastic valve with billet. Never had any issues with the factory setup, I drain mine down about once a month.
Does that system still use the factory primary fuel filter?
No, the lower piece is removed and gets replaced with a flat billet plate which feeds the new filter setup. The upper part of the old filter housing remains in place though.
From knowing that the specs of the 11 to 16 filters are 10 microns for the primary filter in the DFCM and 3 microns for the engine bay HPFP filter, I'd say that bigger 17 plus filter has the same rating and more surface area than that new spin on filter. Plus the factory primary filters have water separation capability. You might get better micron specs for the spin ons, but you lose the water separation. If you're under warranty and you have a problem, you're screwed because you have the aftermarket primary filter set up. Plus everytime you buy the filter set, you pay for two but use just one. Doesn't make sense to me. YMMV...
From knowing that the specs of the 11 to 16 filters are 10 microns for the primary filter in the DFCM and 3 microns for the engine bay HPFP filter, I'd say that bigger 17 plus filter has the same rating and more surface area than that new spin on filter. Plus the factory primary filters have water separation capability. You might get better micron specs for the spin ons, but you lose the water separation. If you're under warranty and you have a problem, you're screwed because you have the aftermarket primary filter set up. Plus everytime you buy the filter set, you pay for two but use just one. Doesn't make sense to me. YMMV...
I started searching a little on this and the available information on this kit is non-existent. It looks like you may still get water separation the way the billet base plate works. The water sensor is still connected, there's a low point drain in the plate and there's a vertical tube that looks to take fuel from above a theoretical water line? I'm assuming if you go for this kit, you've already replaced the under hood filter to a spin on as well with the H&S kit. For the price, they're not doing a great job marketing the kit other than throwing the CAT name on the filter...
I started searching a little on this and the available information on this kit is non-existent. It looks like you may still get water separation the way the billet base plate works. The water sensor is still connected, there's a low point drain in the plate and there's a vertical tube that looks to take fuel from above a theoretical water line? I'm assuming if you go for this kit, you've already replaced the under hood filter to a spin on as well with the H&S kit. For the price, they're not doing a great job marketing the kit other than throwing the CAT name on the filter...
You get the water separation from the layer or film they use for that purpose in the primary filter. I can't see how you would get any water in that housing without the factory filter there. I remember emailing Donaldson about their primary fuel filter for my truck and they stated it did not have that water separating layer in their filter like the Motorcraft unit.
You get the water separation from the layer or film they use for that purpose in the primary filter. I can't see how you would get any water in that housing without the factory filter there. I remember emailing Donaldson about their primary fuel filter for my truck and they stated it did not have that water separating layer in their filter like the Motorcraft unit.
well, i learned something today, i figured it was gravity and it wzs the shape of the housing that separated out the water or settled out rather. Good to know
well, i learned something today, i figured it was gravity and it wzs the shape of the housing that separated out the water or settled out rather. Good to know
I took a pic of one of the primary Motorcraft fuel filters that is in the 11 to 16s DFCM aka diesel fuel conditioning modules.
The holes are so small it feels like a sheet of plastic.
This is from a genuine set of Motorcraft filters FD-4615.
that membrane that "feels" like plastic is the water colessor (sp) in the aviation world if you touch it you throw the filter away as the spot where you touched it will no longer separate water from fuel.
that membrane that "feels" like plastic is the water colessor (sp) in the aviation world if you touch it you throw the filter away as the spot where you touched it will no longer separate water from fuel.
I'm glad my bird doesn't fly then. What if I said I had a rubber glove on? 😆
that is how I was trained to handle them, with rubber gloves. it is the acid and oils from your skin that ruins them.
I was being sarcastic....
Being that something like that would not be good for a flying machine, I get it. I learned something. It's stupid to touch that layer. Thanks for the tip. I have on rubber gloves when I change fuel filters. I didn't have one on when I touched that layer.
