I installed the heater yesterday and now I'm figuring out the best way to install and operate a heater valve. Understanding that the OEM type valve isn't available anymore, it appears an in-line valve is the way to go. I've looked over the 4-Seasons catalog and see they are offered with the cable operators on top or bottom.
A few questions.
1. Does flow direction matter through the valve?
2. The Ford shop manual shows the hose from the pump going to the top core tube. The hose from the head going to the valve. Does it matter? I'm asking because I want the best option for cable routing.
3. All the valves I viewed need a looped end on the operating cable. Is there a way to make this? I never had any luck trying to bend the hardened cable. Also looked for some sort of adapter, no luck.
Thanks
Bob

 

May have what you need .

 

I'm sure there is a " proper " way but I doubt it would make a huge difference especially in a truck that is unlikely to see extreme cold . I will be putting mine wherever it's most convenient for routing . PS I see you have the billit hinges , what are your thoughts on them ? This question has been asked many times with little or no actual user input .

 

Do you still have your original valve? The rubber "washers" on the stem were shot on mine so I got a replacement valve. The replacement valve has the inlet and outlet at 90 degrees from each other. It worked fine when I was just running a short loop of hose back to the water pump like you have in your picture.

When I got a heater, I discovered the 90 degree replacement valve didn't work out so well for running hoses up to the heater and took another look at my original. The inlet and outlet are orientated about 130 degrees from each other on the original valve and work much better for routing your heater hoses along the inner fender. I took the original stem to a plumber, and he was able to find replacement "washers" for it. It works fine now. I'm sure glad I saved it. Good luck.




Jim

 

The hose going from the head to the heater core is the hot water intake, so that would be the line you want the valve in. Otherwise, the hot water will still be reaching the core through convection, and raising the temperature in the cab all year 'round, even if it isn't circulating. That hose goes to the bottom of the core so the water has to push uphill, which eliminates air pockets. This all allows a free flow back to the pump which draws the water through the heater and back to the engine, right along with the "cold" water from the lower radiator hose as you can see in Jim's picture above.

Typically, on the valve, there will be a direction of flow marked for proper operation.

 

In addition to Four Seasons, you may find a valve you like with Red Dot. They make a lot of aux heaters and A/C units and accessories for trucks and off road equipment. CATALOG - Red Dot Corporation

B

 

This might help you and others. I found this paper in the glove box of my 55 F350 when I bought it in 2016. It must have been in there ever since the dealer put in the heater!


whole page


close up of 6 cylinder


close up of 8 cylinder

 

On questions 1 and 2, I can't answer because to be honest, I think mine is set up wrong which I will correct next time I am changing hoses and coolant. But about your 3rd question: what has always worked for me on those choke/heater valve cables, after mocking them up, knowing how much "wire" to leave out from the outside, clamped,"conduit" or covering, is to get a couple of large long nose pliers one holding the wire, and the other, even larger pair, turning, or looping a copule of turns of wire around shaft on the valve control arm. Try to keep the turns tight. You could even use a propane torch to gently heat up the wire to make the work easier. Then cut off the left over end. I usually use a cut off wheel on a Dremel tool. Mine don't end up looking factory, but not too bad either.

 

Many Fords used this heater control valve, p/n C3UZ18495A (Motorcraft YG133)

Fits: 1961/72 F100/1100. Some big trucks thru 1991

 

Thank you guys for the help. I ordered a Red Dot valve similar to the one in Ross's picture but with the cable control turned 90 degrees toward the driver's side. That way the cable will go some what straight from the control panel through the firewall, then one right turn to the valve. Should be able to keep it kinda low and close to the outside on the firewall.
Abe that original Ford drawing is helpful. Thanks for posting.
52 USCG, No I don't have the original valve on the head. It's a fitting with a slight (about 1/8th) bend. I may have to turn it a bit but think it will work.
Hooler I'll try your method on an old cable. Tried to find some sort of adapter online. Nothing yet.

Ebear, I bought them after giving up on a new pair from Mid West Early Ford that wouldn't work. Spent lots of hours trying. The Eddie Motor Sports hinges are expensive and they don't solve every problem with the poor Ford design to open and close these heavy hoods. I need to be real careful closing. Side to side balance is a problem which could cause either front hood corner to contact /scratch the fender. I've mastered the process. The most important thing is, once closed it consistently latches in the same place.

 

Thanks as I mentioned we've had little to no response from actual users but the little we did have seem to agree with your findings . I am not at that stage yet but have to purchase something as I have no usable hinges . The close to $ 1,000 Canadian is a little pricey especially for something that isn't a complete fix . The usual procedure is : buy Chinese , get mad , buy American oem , remain mad then put more money out for the expensive stuff .