I'm going to install a heater core in my 1966 F100. I've heard of people installing a shut off valve in the engine compartment to keep the heat out of the passenger compartment during the warmer months.

Any advice on doing this?
Can I just use one shut off valve to stop the flow?
or
Do I need to create a bypass around the heater core to to keep the flow moving?

Thanks

 

Buy a c3uz-18495-a valve, and then a cable and you can control it from inside the cab. I did it to mine because in 1966 that valve was an option.
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I never thought of controlling it from inside, Great idea!!
So I just need to buy one valve to stop the circulation, does it matter which hose it goes on? is it really that simple?

 

Yes, I will take a picture of mine and post it so you know. I think it is the upper hose. I'll get it up tomorrow.

 

1965/66's offered an optional deluxe fresh air heater. With this heater, to the right of the steering column under the dash are two cables attached to a bracket.

One cable opens the damper door to allow fresh air to enter the heater core.

The other cable opens the (C3UZ-18495-A -available from Ford) heater valve that is spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose.

The economy heater used a manually operated shut-off valve (C5TZ-18495-A-obsolete, but can be found NOS) that was spiced into the same heater hose.

C3UZ-18495-A .. Heater Water Valve (Motorcraft YG-133) / MSRP: $46.16 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $27.70.

 

Thanks for the informaiton, Any recomendations for locating a pull cable?

I was going to browes through the pull-a-part and see what random car I can pull one off of.

 

If your '66 has a heater, it had a shut-off valve. If not the deluxe fresh air heater, it's manually operated, spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose.

The manually operated and cable controlled valves tended to rust out, so there may be none there now.

 

Here is the picture of my valve. I bought it from a local Old Ford Parts Place

 

Here is another suggestion, any 1/2" plumbing valve with a 5/8" OD will fit in the hose like a glove. You will have to operate it from under the hood, but if you are turning it on & off once a year, it aint no biggie in my book.

I have a valve in like bum but never got around to installing the cable.




John

 

Obviously these trucks were designed with a valve; however, I remember my dad replacing a heater core on his '61 and his mechanic told him to get rid of the valve since it prevents water from circulating thru the core.

He seemed to think that that lack of water flow caused the core to sludge up and that was the reason the core rusted out. Maybe so.

In my personal experience, as I don't recall my truck really getting any hot air in the cab when the heater unit lever is in the off position. In all fairness, though, I have nearly managed to forget about the heater, since as of today we have tied the all-time record (69) for days above 100 degrees and tomorrow will break that record set in 1980.

 

The sludge thing is true. Since I live on the left coast, we get cool temps at night so I'm always using the heater valve. They do make a direct replacement plastic valve now. It works just the same and I'm thinking it will last longer then the metal one. Time will tell. Auto Zone has them. I would think that if your looking to keep that complete factory look, get the metal one.
Fritz

 

Here is a pic of the controls Bill is talking about. The cable control that goes to the valve under the hood is the temp. That would be the valve you see in the pic that Broomfieldbum posted. The control that opens the flapper valve in the heater box is labled heat. The first control **** or switch you see up and to the left under the gage cluster is the fan control switch to control fan speed. Please excuse the dirty control ***** as I had not yet addressed cleaning this area when the pics were taken.

 

Jo, I understand how the under hood valve could be useful in your part of the country. In Colorado that would be the most inconvenient thing in the world. Here you could need heat in the morning, and want nothing by noon, and want heat again in the evening. I don't know how the PO of my truck dealt without the cable actuated valve. In my 06 I see it turn the heat on and the AC on in the same day to maintain a temp.

 

66-77 Bronco's have the same valve pictured in Broomfields post. Any parts store usually handles them. I have had problems with the plastic one's leaking in a short period of time, and now buy only the metal ones. It goes in the pressure side hose so there isn't constant pressure on the heator core. If the heater core developes a leak/bursts, it keeps you driving till you can get it fixed.

 

My initial plan was to not even have heat, then I drove in the rain and my windows instantly fogged up. So I looked at installing the heater core and it seems like such a simple upgrade for under $30. I think I'll install the core and spend a little extra for the metal contol valve. Maybe by next spring I'll find a pull cord controll to install.

Thanks again for the great info