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Convince Me Not To Drill A Drain Hole In Dana 50 TTB In-Situ
Need to change fluid, probably original and 195k miles. As the title says, I am itching to drill a drain hole through the bottom of the Dana 50 TTB of the 96 F250. I don't have the time, energy, or wherewithal to pull the case apart.
Could I not just do it in place, upside-down, very carefully and suck out the shavings with a shop vac? Maybe flush with diesel for good measure and insert a magnetic probe extra-good measure? Like so
I did a long time ago, it was uneventful. No need to worry about shavings the oil in the case pushes it out. I will say when I did it I used a mag drill and it was very easy.
I could just pump it out..... but I don't like the idea of leftover oil and crud sitting at the bottom. I am about the furthest thing from a machinist, my plan would be to use several sucessively sized drill bits going up from 3/16 to 37/64" and finally tapping with a 3/8" pipe tap? I really just know enough to be dangerous with machining. Would that work? Am I missing anything? NPT tap right?
I'd pump it out. Adding a drain isn't going to get out any more than sucking through the fill plug. If your fluid comes out nasty enough that replacing ~95% of it isn't good enough, you should pull the differential and clean it properly. It's your front axle, so it probably gets used ten miles a year, if that.
To add more peace of mind going forward, relocating your axle vent is cheap and easy.
I think I would drill it the proper size at first instead of going up with successive drills. The reason is, once you drill thru the first hole, the fluid is going to come out and you will lose the "fluid pushing out the shavings" capability that was mentioned on the successive size holes.
Well I did it. Had to special order a 36/64” drill bit with reduced shank. Just barely fit between the ground and pumpkin with my right angle drill.
probably will use ramps next time.
My welder cousin advised against using either a step bit or a 9/16” and I am glad I waited for the right tools. Step bit would oblong the holes and 9/16” wouldn’t leave enough meat.
I would also cut down the tap next time, because there isn’t enough room to get the full taper tapped, so the plug sits proud a bit.
it was very messy with all the oil running out. Got it back together with syn 75w-90, considering how clean the old oil was, this should last a longg time.
I would also cut down the tap next time, because there isn’t enough room to get the full taper tapped, so the plug sits proud a bit.
it was very messy with all the oil running out. Got it back together with syn 75w-90, considering how clean the old oil was, this should last a longg time.
Are you saying that there was something in the way inside the differential preventing you from tapping the hole further?
IMO, how clean the oil was just goes to show how you didn’t need to install a drain plug. The truck has 195K miles but the front diff might only have 10-20K miles of use. It has just been along for the ride for the rest of it. I believe Ford’s service interval was 100K miles but I can’t find that info right now.
Are you saying that there was something in the way inside the differential preventing you from tapping the hole further?
IMO, how clean the oil was just goes to show how you didn’t need to install a drain plug. The truck has 195K miles but the front diff might only have 10-20K miles of use. It has just been along for the ride for the rest of it. I believe Ford’s service interval was 100K miles but I can’t find that info right now.
You're correct, they say 100k interval unless you suspect issues.
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