EGR delete vs BPD or Sinester Diesel EGR cooler replace
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
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EGR delete vs BPD or Sinester Diesel EGR cooler replace
I searched but can't find anything on the forum related to the titled subject. I do understand that EGR delete bypasses (eliminates) an emission function. Is there any reliability advantage in going with the EGR cooler replacement vs the delete? Pricing is close enough that $ will not be a determining factor. At this point in time I am simply working to make my truck as reliable as when I bought it 15 yrs ago.
Also, I am considering oil cooler replacement while I doing the EGR. I believe my current oil cooler is working fine (avg 8 degree delta between oil temp and coolant temp) but I understand that the stock cooler has been known to be problematic.
Thanks in advance for any input
Also, I am considering oil cooler replacement while I doing the EGR. I believe my current oil cooler is working fine (avg 8 degree delta between oil temp and coolant temp) but I understand that the stock cooler has been known to be problematic.
Thanks in advance for any input
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
At 8 degrees I would not do a thing. 12 degrees, yeah with top-end work. More of a determinant would be the type of coolant the truck has been running. If it is the G05, I'd be more likely to do the flip with changing to a different coolant. However, there still will be remanents of G05 around to clog the new filter, chem flush or not.
With a '05, running a BPD EGR cooler is a necessity if you are going to keep the EGR function in place. I don't know how ME is addressing diesel emissions right now. If you are going to stop exhaust gasses from entering any EGR cooler, any non-failed cooler would be fine. From my experience, I was quite surprised to find how much carbon was attached to the back of my intake valves, and how much carbon caused divots in my exhaust valve faces in 75k miles. So is there an advantage to eliminating the EGR, well either the EGR or CCV to keep the exhaust carbon from forming clumps and not just as a speck of dust passing through the intake to exhaust flow.
With a '05, running a BPD EGR cooler is a necessity if you are going to keep the EGR function in place. I don't know how ME is addressing diesel emissions right now. If you are going to stop exhaust gasses from entering any EGR cooler, any non-failed cooler would be fine. From my experience, I was quite surprised to find how much carbon was attached to the back of my intake valves, and how much carbon caused divots in my exhaust valve faces in 75k miles. So is there an advantage to eliminating the EGR, well either the EGR or CCV to keep the exhaust carbon from forming clumps and not just as a speck of dust passing through the intake to exhaust flow.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 846
Likes: 34
Mark, you said you have a CCV mod using 1" hose. Would you mind share about the catch can you use? The largest and affordable one I saw is 19mm or 3/4". Do you use that with adapter to go larger or something else?
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/foru...98-post10.html
https://www.thedieselgarage.com/foru...98-post10.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
At 8 degrees I would not do a thing. 12 degrees, yeah with top-end work. More of a determinant would be the type of coolant the truck has been running. If it is the G05, I'd be more likely to do the flip with changing to a different coolant. However, there still will be remanents of G05 around to clog the new filter, chem flush or not.
With a '05, running a BPD EGR cooler is a necessity if you are going to keep the EGR function in place. I don't know how ME is addressing diesel emissions right now. If you are going to stop exhaust gasses from entering any EGR cooler, any non-failed cooler would be fine. From my experience, I was quite surprised to find how much carbon was attached to the back of my intake valves, and how much carbon caused divots in my exhaust valve faces in 75k miles. So is there an advantage to eliminating the EGR, well either the EGR or CCV to keep the exhaust carbon from forming clumps and not just as a speck of dust passing through the intake to exhaust flow.
With a '05, running a BPD EGR cooler is a necessity if you are going to keep the EGR function in place. I don't know how ME is addressing diesel emissions right now. If you are going to stop exhaust gasses from entering any EGR cooler, any non-failed cooler would be fine. From my experience, I was quite surprised to find how much carbon was attached to the back of my intake valves, and how much carbon caused divots in my exhaust valve faces in 75k miles. So is there an advantage to eliminating the EGR, well either the EGR or CCV to keep the exhaust carbon from forming clumps and not just as a speck of dust passing through the intake to exhaust flow.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
My other truck has a BPD EGR cooler and was at the time I stopped driving it EGR turned OFF by a tune.
My current truck is sadly EGR delete with a cheap leaky kit. When I get time and some extra cash I will go BPD cooler in it.
My current truck is sadly EGR delete with a cheap leaky kit. When I get time and some extra cash I will go BPD cooler in it.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,829
Likes: 3,114
From: Jersey Shore
Another option if the EGR cooler does not leak is to do the block off I showed in another thread. But with the ‘05 you’ll get a code.
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Mountain Pass
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Unfortunately I am 90% sure I have a leak in the existing EGR cooler... Actually, even if I didn't I think I would be replacing it anyway given the reputation they have...
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Fleet Owner
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From: Spanaway
They are easy to test.
You just need a water bath and some compressed air. Plug the two ends that carry exhaust gases
with one end having a port of injecting compressed air. Place under water and flood the other coolant
cavity with water and tip back and forth to remove all the air while holding under water. Not you inject
the compressed air and hold it under water and tip back and forth looking for bubbles out of the two
open ports. If you get bubbles then it's bad. No bubbles and your good to use it.
I used a rubber expanding plug and a rubber tiped air gun to do this. It took a bit to get a good seal
on the blow-gun but I did and did not have any leaks. Ford makes a set of plates for doing this but I
was being cheap and needed to test it right then. If you really want to read about it there is a PDF out
there somewhere that gives instructions on doing this with the Ford tools.
You just need a water bath and some compressed air. Plug the two ends that carry exhaust gases
with one end having a port of injecting compressed air. Place under water and flood the other coolant
cavity with water and tip back and forth to remove all the air while holding under water. Not you inject
the compressed air and hold it under water and tip back and forth looking for bubbles out of the two
open ports. If you get bubbles then it's bad. No bubbles and your good to use it.
I used a rubber expanding plug and a rubber tiped air gun to do this. It took a bit to get a good seal
on the blow-gun but I did and did not have any leaks. Ford makes a set of plates for doing this but I
was being cheap and needed to test it right then. If you really want to read about it there is a PDF out
there somewhere that gives instructions on doing this with the Ford tools.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
They are easy to test.
You just need a water bath and some compressed air. Plug the two ends that carry exhaust gases
with one end having a port of injecting compressed air. Place under water and flood the other coolant
cavity with water and tip back and forth to remove all the air while holding under water. Not you inject
the compressed air and hold it under water and tip back and forth looking for bubbles out of the two
open ports. If you get bubbles then it's bad. No bubbles and your good to use it.
I used a rubber expanding plug and a rubber tiped air gun to do this. It took a bit to get a good seal
on the blow-gun but I did and did not have any leaks. Ford makes a set of plates for doing this but I
was being cheap and needed to test it right then. If you really want to read about it there is a PDF out
there somewhere that gives instructions on doing this with the Ford tools.
You just need a water bath and some compressed air. Plug the two ends that carry exhaust gases
with one end having a port of injecting compressed air. Place under water and flood the other coolant
cavity with water and tip back and forth to remove all the air while holding under water. Not you inject
the compressed air and hold it under water and tip back and forth looking for bubbles out of the two
open ports. If you get bubbles then it's bad. No bubbles and your good to use it.
I used a rubber expanding plug and a rubber tiped air gun to do this. It took a bit to get a good seal
on the blow-gun but I did and did not have any leaks. Ford makes a set of plates for doing this but I
was being cheap and needed to test it right then. If you really want to read about it there is a PDF out
there somewhere that gives instructions on doing this with the Ford tools.
I have driven the truck more and at constant speed (50+ mph) I am finding a ECT vs EOT delta of 15 degrees, so I am going to replace my oil cooler as well at the EGR cooler. So my current work list is.
New EGR cooler from BPD
New oil cooler From BPD
New drivers side bank glow plugs (OEM) and harness
New thermostat
Going to run the bubble test as well to make sure I don't need to add head gaskets to the list.
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