2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3L brake issue
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
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2003 Ford Excursion 4x4 7.3L brake issue
Hello All,
having an an issue with the passenger side front brake on our 2003 Ford 4x4 Exc. It doesn't do it all the time but twice now I've gotten the call that it is pulling to the right severely and that it has a heavy wobble feel. The latest was slight smoke from that area. The brakes were supposedly redone prior to us buying but I wondered if anyone has experienced the same thing and if there are any solutions. I have already looked at new calipers and brakes on Amazon but any help or input is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks to all.
having an an issue with the passenger side front brake on our 2003 Ford 4x4 Exc. It doesn't do it all the time but twice now I've gotten the call that it is pulling to the right severely and that it has a heavy wobble feel. The latest was slight smoke from that area. The brakes were supposedly redone prior to us buying but I wondered if anyone has experienced the same thing and if there are any solutions. I have already looked at new calipers and brakes on Amazon but any help or input is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks to all.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Good advice from M3rc already. I'll add...
Are the brake hoses original? Brake hoses were never intended to go 16-17 years.
Has fluid been flushed...is it CLEAR? If it is brown, green or blue...that is likely contributing to your problem.
Caliper slide pins...correct grease? Right AMOUNT of grease? Too much is a bad thing. Wrong kind is a bad thing.
Are brake pads sliding in the slots on the mounting bracket UNIMPEDED? Even the slightest deformities in those brackets will cause the pads to hang up and make lots of heat.
Is the hardware for the brake pads correctly installed?
Are rotors running true? Run-out should be checked to ensure they are not warped.
Last, but not least, is the wheel hub/bearing assembly in good shape? Those will absolutely pull left or right when they are starting to go out.
Are the brake hoses original? Brake hoses were never intended to go 16-17 years.
Has fluid been flushed...is it CLEAR? If it is brown, green or blue...that is likely contributing to your problem.
Caliper slide pins...correct grease? Right AMOUNT of grease? Too much is a bad thing. Wrong kind is a bad thing.
Are brake pads sliding in the slots on the mounting bracket UNIMPEDED? Even the slightest deformities in those brackets will cause the pads to hang up and make lots of heat.
Is the hardware for the brake pads correctly installed?
Are rotors running true? Run-out should be checked to ensure they are not warped.
Last, but not least, is the wheel hub/bearing assembly in good shape? Those will absolutely pull left or right when they are starting to go out.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2014
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It feels like the passenger side front brake is grabbing or braking and after I got it home I put water on both and that side was hot enough to cause steam. I am going to try some of your suggestions.👍🏻
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Jack the front tires off the ground one at a time and see if you have any side to side movement. Mine started pulling Sunday and both front wheel bearings were shot, driver side was worse. I stuck some 7.3 hubs on for now until I can do full axle rebuilds. My needle bearings were fine.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
Jack the front tires off the ground one at a time and see if you have any side to side movement. Mine started pulling Sunday and both front wheel bearings were shot, driver side was worse. I stuck some Dana 50 hubs off a 7.3 Excursion on for now until I can do full axle rebuilds. My needle bearings were fine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 9
From: Minnesota
As far as calipers are concerned, I’ve always used NAPA calipers because of lifetime warranty, sticking slide pins, frozen pistons doesn’t matter, lifetime warranty. If you’re going to keep the vehicle I think it is the best way to go.
jmo
jmo
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,037
Likes: 310
I was having this happen but it was occasionally pulling severely to the left. It would reset itself if I pressed firmly on the brake pedal, you could feel it bleed down, then it would be fine for awhile. Had to make a very quick stop to actuate the ABS and got worse after that. Mine wound up being the brake control module after I tested it. If yours is doing this all the time it's probably isolated within that side brake caliper and/or hose. I also rebuilt the calipers with a kit...yes you can still get them...that was about $7-$8 at the parts store. I was surprised at all the junk in there and what had accumulated on the piston. What ever you do, try and keep your oem rotors as the ones from the parts store will warp easily.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 9
From: Minnesota
I agree completely, I’ve tried a few different rotors, Frozen Sloted, NAPA Premium, some I don’t even remember where I got them, to name a couple, I’m back to Ford oem rotors and I run Hawk pads, for whatever reason they seem to work best in my application.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,997
Likes: 206
From: South Eastern Michigan
I had a piston stick in a caliper last year. Stuck out so it was applying the brake the whole time, started smoking and was pulling when stopping. It was one of those red calipers....both went for cores when I bought new Napa parts with rotors and Wagner pads. Not a single issue since. For what its worth, I've found Napa to be good parts. Have not had an issue for several years with their rotors or other parts.
Also, full inspection and proper cleaning needs to be done when rebuilding brakes on these trucks.
Also, full inspection and proper cleaning needs to be done when rebuilding brakes on these trucks.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 385
Likes: 19
Sticking pistons.
I had sticking pistons that did not immediately show up.
No heat or smell during light normal braking.
During a local tow on hilly mountain roads with family on board. I got lots of pulling, heat, smoke. Wow.
Turns out the sticking pistons would not move out during light braking so they would not drag either. During hard braking the force was enough to move the piston out tight against rotor and then it could not retract.
I had three out of four sticking to various degrees.
Lessons learned. Always replace calipers in pairs like all pros say but not every one does.
And dont reuse caliper piston seals. I have cleaned and reassembled and got lucky many more years use. This ford the seals seemed to swell and bound the piston.
So get rebuilds with lifetime warranty somewhere or get the $5 rebuild kits and diy.
To me stuck slide pins show up as extreme uneven wear on pads and can go unnoticed for a long time.
Could be both!
Advice. You can save a ton of $$ ordering on rockauto if you have time to wait. Order the rubber lines too. Easy while you have it all apart.
No heat or smell during light normal braking.
During a local tow on hilly mountain roads with family on board. I got lots of pulling, heat, smoke. Wow.
Turns out the sticking pistons would not move out during light braking so they would not drag either. During hard braking the force was enough to move the piston out tight against rotor and then it could not retract.
I had three out of four sticking to various degrees.
Lessons learned. Always replace calipers in pairs like all pros say but not every one does.
And dont reuse caliper piston seals. I have cleaned and reassembled and got lucky many more years use. This ford the seals seemed to swell and bound the piston.
So get rebuilds with lifetime warranty somewhere or get the $5 rebuild kits and diy.
To me stuck slide pins show up as extreme uneven wear on pads and can go unnoticed for a long time.
Could be both!
Advice. You can save a ton of $$ ordering on rockauto if you have time to wait. Order the rubber lines too. Easy while you have it all apart.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,828
Likes: 3,113
From: Jersey Shore
Any of these will cause the issue, so all need to be checked.
Frozen slides.
Frozen pistons.
Frozen pads in the bracket.
Internally torn brake hose.
The first three are easily checked by observation, one step at a time. The hose can usually be checked by carrying a wrench to fit the bleeder screw, and when the problem happens to see if the caliper has retained fluid pressure.
If however, you have two sides locking, both front or both rear, there are other considerations. For the rear the drop hose can be the fault of both rears. Otherwise, a master cylinder that does not return to full back can keep one of the vent or compensating ports closed.
Frozen slides.
Frozen pistons.
Frozen pads in the bracket.
Internally torn brake hose.
The first three are easily checked by observation, one step at a time. The hose can usually be checked by carrying a wrench to fit the bleeder screw, and when the problem happens to see if the caliper has retained fluid pressure.
If however, you have two sides locking, both front or both rear, there are other considerations. For the rear the drop hose can be the fault of both rears. Otherwise, a master cylinder that does not return to full back can keep one of the vent or compensating ports closed.
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