When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I am working on my 460 in my 69 f350 crew cab. The headers that came with the truck have un believeable leaks and were ridiculous to remove. more difficult than the hedmans on my 72 with a 390. I rewelded several sections and even separated the flange to allow for good independent seals.
A few weeks ago I found some shorty headers on CL for $75.00. Just like those stainless ones you can find on eBay for like 150? I bought them thinking if i could make them fit, they can't be any worse than the ones I had currently.
Now the dilemma.... The 460 long long long tube headers I have (unknown brand) get caught on a small section of the frame where it sticks out maybe 3/4 of an inch then the rest of the frame. this section is maybe 3-4 inches long. My plan was to cut out a small section matching the same lines on the frame but making that section on 2-3 inches long, making header install amazingly easy.
OR
I could cut a small 3/4" half moon section out of the frame where these shorty headers hit and SEE if they would then fit. they won't align because the angle of the flange cause the collection to hit the frame and intern hit the engine mount. I believe if I were to notch the frame slightly at this spot, the shorts would fit.
SO in inconclusion, I can notch the frame for the long tubes, which unfortunately may still leak, or notch the frame for the shorty's and see if its enough to make them fit....
Thoughts?
This is a budget build and I don't have the cash to buy some 600$ headers. Plus I think the longtubes I have are the same ones.
This is the portion affecting the long tube headers. I’d merely make it shorter and not cut into the normal width of the frame. Where the bolt is is where I’d make the half moon cut. Zoomed out view of where the bolt it or the half moon cut for the shortys would fit. I’d also have to forcefully manipulate the metal portion of the engine mount for some extra clearance And this is where the shorty sits currently no cuts. Only slightly off angle and off by about a half inch cause of the mount housing.
Well I got tired of waiting.... sooooooo with some perseverance, blow torch and a hammer, the shortys fit. Ground the frame like 1/16th of an inch. Now just hope these cheapies hold up.
You could always reinforce the frame where you notched it. Either box it in there, or put a plate on the top and the outside of the frame rail. But if it's only for street use and not hauling or racing, you maybe OK as is.
I have a question or two. Who made dual shock tube mounts as I hadn't seen one that went up and over the motor. Also, did the lower shock mount come with the upper? If this was all custom congrats on that. You got a lot going on under the hood of that crew.
I have a question or two. Who made dual shock tube mounts as I hadn't seen one that went up and over the motor. Also, did the lower shock mount come with the upper? If this was all custom congrats on that. You got a lot going on under the hood of that crew.
cstoyer
The previous owner actually did all of that. He had wanted to make it a prerunner and installed a long travel suspension kit on it. its definitely unique but part of me wishes it was the stock suspension. Installing it required cutting the coil spring buckets? And welding a plate on the inside. I may also be replacing the inner fenders or making new mounts because they rattle.
Shows how damaged headers don't really affect HP or Torque.... Now I am really torn and may just go with the full length ones....
Since I just all the flanges Im positive I could make it fit. The main downside I am seeing to the shorty headers is that they both require 90's right after the collector and the driver side one is concerningly close to the steering box pitman arm and the linkage.
I have an exhaust kit I bought from speedway which has everything Id need to use the shorts still but not super excited about the 90's. Plus these are the cheap headers you find on eBay so who knows how good they'll be.
IMHO stick with the shorties and out of the frame. A 460 is not exactly a weenie on torque. No cooking starters. Those long tubes look like they won't last long. And a 90 degree isn't that big of deal on a street vehicle.
Well I went with the long tubes. The shortys were extremely close to the steering arms and stuff. Dressed up the headers tho and notched that back part of the frame. Looks factory and is symmetrical. Slid in no problem. Started wasn’t as much of a pain.
The before After VHT primer and VHT ceramic paint. Did a make shift cure with a blow torch. And finally the magnaflow exhaust it all goes too.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
