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Hey guys!!! I have a 1996 Ford F-250 XLT HD 4x4 with the E4OD automatic transmission and the fuel-injected 7.5 liter 460 V8. I recently bought me a set of Hedman Elite HTC Ultra-Duty shorty headers and installed them yesterday. The only problem I noticed was one of the header tubes hairline touches the frame, not enough to even scratch it, but does touch it. I have plenty of room on the driver side. The good thing is when the engine torques, it torques away from the frame, but it still bugs me, because I don't want the frame to dig into the header after some time from idling. I'm not sure what to do exactly to fix this problem. I have a couple of options to choose from:
1: Try and reposition the engine more towards the driver side for more clearance by unbolting the engine mounts. The only thing is it doesn't seem like this would work due to the way the engine mounts are made and the cross member is slotted.
2: Purchase and install new engine mounts, which I know will be a pain in the rear, but would my engine mounts even be that bad. The engine only has 165,000 original miles on it. Also, it seems if I did installed new engine mounts it would lift the engine more upwards, but it looks like the headers would still touch even then.
3. Uninstall the headers and add a dimple. My question is is this professional and what route do I take to exactly due this correctly?
4. Cut away a small portion of the frame with a die grinder.
I have another topic I would like to discuss that I am concerned about, too. It looks like one of my exhaust ports have a slight crack right above them. Would JB Weld extreme heat fix this?
I have a few pictures of everything so you all can get a good understanding of my situation. Thanks guys! Let me know what your opinions are. This is the hairline crack I was talking about. It's very difficult to see , but it is there.
Well, typically I would take a round tube, lay it on the pipe and give it a tap to dimple the tube to clear the frame. You could just take a grinder and bevel the frame a 1/4" to give yourself some room also. I don't see a problem doing it either way. You aren't going to affect either piece.
The crack? Are you talking about where the rust is flaking on the head, just above where the header bolts is at?
In my opinion, there is nothing you can do to fix that without actually welding it. Anything you try to cover it with will just fall out. If it is really cracked, you need to drill the end of the crack to keep it from traveling any farther. Just covering it with JB weld will not fix anything.
Being just where the bolt is, I don't see it as a long term issue. Likely a flaw from manufacturing. 460 heads are pretty stout hunks of iron. Or did you have issues getting that bolt out when you removed the manifolds?
Well, typically I would take a round tube, lay it on the pipe and give it a tap to dimple the tube to clear the frame. You could just take a grinder and bevel the frame a 1/4" to give yourself some room also. I don't see a problem doing it either way. You aren't going to affect either piece.
Which would be the easier route to take and the more professional approach? Also, beveling the frame a 1/4 shouldn't weaken it any should it? What size tube should I use to dimple the header tube? Can I use a socket?
The crack? Are you talking about where the rust is flaking on the head, just above where the header bolts is at?
Yes, there is actually three cracks about 3/4 inch in length, but they are all around where the header bolts go.
In my opinion, there is nothing you can do to fix that without actually welding it. Anything you try to cover it with will just fall out. If it is really cracked, you need to drill the end of the crack to keep it from traveling any farther. Just covering it with JB weld will not fix anything.
Well I've never welded before, but I have done a little bit of soldering. The only reason I mentioned the extreme temperature JB Weld is due to the fact is it is high temperature and it is a metallic paste that saids it can be used to fill in cracks in iron and steel. I've heard so many stories on how people have fixed cracked blocks with just regular JB Weld. Plus JB Weld is alot easier. I did plan on drilling at the end of the crack though. So do you recommend solder, or the JB Weld route?
Being just where the bolt is, I don't see it as a long term issue. Likely a flaw from manufacturing. 460 heads are pretty stout hunks of iron. Or did you have issues getting that bolt out when you removed the manifolds?
I had no issues getting the bolts out of the old exhaust manifolds. Besides some bolts rounding off and being rusted to the manifold, they actually came out pretty clean with a little bit of elbow grease. None of them broke off inside the head either. And a flaw from manufacturing?
The crack can be welded. The head needs to be removed, and completely disassembled before the repair. Finding someone who knows how to weld cast iron might also be difficult. From what I've heard it's a dying profession. Given all that is involved it might be easier to find a replacement at the junkyard.
If you can get the header out easily I'd dimple it. Use a sharpie to mark where it gets close to the frame before pulling it out. Then used a torch to heat up the tube and whack it. A piece of black pipe or an impact socket should work. Don't worry a dent won't kill power at all.
If the cracks are just on the bolt chases, and the headers don't leak, I'd sure as hell leave well enough alone. If you have old saggy engine mounts, that'll likely fix or help your frame contact unless the headers are simply designed poorly. If you replace mounts and they still hit, I'd just leave that alone as well. It'll clearance itself, not worth the effort, especially considering by taking them in and out, you could make your cracked head worse.
JB weld will not hold it. As soon as you tighten the bolts, it will pull the crack open again. With the heat cycles, it will continue to open/close. People that have patched a block with JB Weld was not a structural item like a manifold bolt hole.
Welding is a good, solid repair, BUT, with all the work that will take to do three holes you are better off finding another head and putting it on.
To fix cast iron you must carefully preheat the area, weld it and then slow cool it. You can't just weld the crack as it will damage the threads making the holes unusable. You would need to cut out the broken area, remove the threads, weld it solid and remachine it.
With all that work needed, it is cheaper in the long run to just get another head.
As for damaging the frame, not likely. Just putting a gentle relief it will be fine. Using a large socket to dimple the tube is an easier way since you would have to remove the headers to grind the frame properly.
The crack can be welded. The head needs to be removed, and completely disassembled before the repair. Finding someone who knows how to weld cast iron might also be difficult. From what I've heard it's a dying profession. Given all that is involved it might be easier to find a replacement at the junkyard.
Well unfortunately I am kinda of on a budget and this is my only vehicle so I just need a quick and easy fix that's going to last though.
JB weld will not hold it. As soon as you tighten the bolts, it will pull the crack open again. With the heat cycles, it will continue to open/close. People that have patched a block with JB Weld was not a structural item like a manifold bolt hole.
Welding is a good, solid repair, BUT, with all the work that will take to do three holes you are better off finding another head and putting it on.
To fix cast iron you must carefully preheat the area, weld it and then slow cool it. You can't just weld the crack as it will damage the threads making the holes unusable. You would need to cut out the broken area, remove the threads, weld it solid and remachine it.
With all that work needed, it is cheaper in the long run to just get another head.
As for damaging the frame, not likely. Just putting a gentle relief it will be fine. Using a large socket to dimple the tube is an easier way since you would have to remove the headers to grind the frame properly.
Actually, the cracks don't go all the way through to the threads. The threads are perfectly fine. Just surface cracks from the looks of it. I just want to make sure they don't continue cracking. Also, I am kind of on a budget considering this is my only truck so I just really need a quick and easy fix that will last.
Quick and easy fix that will last is like jumbo shrimp. If it's not leaking, leave it alone. Keep an eye out for heads in case you need some down the road.
Quick and easy fix that will last is like jumbo shrimp. If it's not leaking, leave it alone. Keep an eye out for heads in case you need some down the road.
Never heard that expression but it's a good one! Haha
In motorsports you can have 2 of these 3: cheap, fast, durable. In school: sleep, social life, good grades. Snowmobiles: light, cheap, strong.
I agree that if it's not leaking now I'd leave it and keep my eyes open for good head cores. It may have been cracked for a decade already, or even longer.
That is INTO the threads. Even the crack at the bottom is up into the thread. No welding just the crack. Moot point, it will just crack again on the next heat cycle. Only way to fix it for good is as I mentioned above. No getting around it.
I agree, let a sleeping dog lie. Snug up the bolts and drive it. The worst it can do is pop the piece out. Won't hurt anything else. My guess is the original bolts swelled with rust and pushed that small, thin piece of the casting out, in turn cracking it. As rusty as it is, it's been that way for many years.
Well I successfully created clearance for my headers now after three hours of constant grinding with a Dremel tool. It was a pain in the rear, but the results are more than satisfactory. I have about 3/8-1/2 inch of clearance and the way I grinded the frame I don't believe it weakened it whatsoever. I noticed my engine mounts and transmission mount are just fine and aren't sagging at all. Now I just have to figure out the cracks in the heads. I believe I'm either going to solder, or JB Weld the cracks. If they have been like that for over a decade now, soldering, or JB Welding it can only strengthen it. At least last long enough for the life of the motor. Once it's time for a rebuild I will get a new set. I just don't have the time to make it that big of a project right now.
