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Does anybody know the actual cause for this code? I saw a couple of references to "FICM code of death". Yikes! I did find one reference thats said it's no FICM voltage reported to the PCM. Is it more likely to be a logic issue?
FORScan reports it as a P0611-60, anybody have info on what the extra number may mean? Maybe just a FORScan thing?
Thanks for the link GenMan! I had seen that document before but didn't think to look it up, I spent an hour yesterday googling codes, I can really be a dufus sometimes .
"FICM memory fault will set if a RAM or ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power. Other internal FICM failure." Is pretty vague but it looks like it could be either side of the FICM causing it. I ran and drove the truck for almost an hour yesterday graphing FMP the whole time, starting the graph before cranking. I did miss a few seconds immediately after key on while the ELM was connecting. I saw 45v several times but it never went below that.
The truck cranks quickly, idles smooth cold or warm, doesn't seem to miss fire anytime. Power is very low, particularly at low RPM. It seems to run normally above 2200 RPM. Fuel consumption is very high with no smoke. No fuel in the crankcase. Bubble test good.
I had all the injectors out and polished the spool valves last week. I found some significant wear on all of the spools and was becoming convinced that was the issue but now the truck has popped this code.
Have you tried throwing a new FICM relay into the truck?
Could it be that simple.
This is one of the reasons I have preached for years. Before you condem a FICM Be shure your inputting the right voltage. A powerboard is basically a step up transformer [4] steps. You input 1v you get out 4v. Whether it is a coil assembly or capictors it still does the same job. 12v=48v; 11v=44v.
I got a relay from Ed a couple months ago so it's pretty new. I guess that doesn't necessarily mean it's good. I pulled the FICM and opened it up. No sign of overheating or bad solder joints on either board. I Looked at it for a half hour with a magnifying glass. Many of the pins in the connector Were black or had black spots on them so I cut down an small acid brush and shined them up with contact cleaner. I'm not for sure the connectors were locked in good either, It seemed much easier to get it unplugged this time. I'm going to re-install it and give that a try. If it still has issues, I think I have the old relay around here somewhere, I give that a try also.
Still no joy . Relay didn't make a difference either. It's still bad low on power. Here's a graph of what's going on with it, as you can see I started recording with the key on and fired it up about 9sec in. The whole thing is only 35sec but it acts like this when warm. Cleared codes and P0611 hasn't came back in 45min or so of running/driving. I'm going to send it in for repair (I'm not sure there is a problem here but I've been suspicious of it for awhile anyway) and see how it acts afterward. Traces top to bottom are FLP, FMP, FVP, and RPM.
It looks like your FLP and FVP are being cutoff or truncating? Shouldn't it show a range of 10 to 15 volts and show a smoother transition? It just looks like it's being cut off because I would expect to see these break 13 volts once the alternator kicks in shortly after start up and I have seen that drop into the high 10 volts as starter is firing. Do you recall the volts showing the tenths of a volt and showing above 13? It also looks like it is graphing only the actual voltage in half volt increments which is why I suspect the truncating is happening...
I think it's just the resolution. I had zoomed in as far as I could and stopped recording when the trace neared the end of the screen, hoping to get something easier to read here. I think the jaggedness is the sample rate. 12.5v was as high as it got on that short run. Interesting that RPM seems to have much quicker rate. Over a longer time and zoomed out it looks much different and I end up at around 14.35v. The range expands to the lowest and highest number it has read for each value.
I always thought of this code as a processor fault and not a voltage fault. The first time it happened to me, my truck would just shut off with no reason or warning and the P0611 was thrown. I have seen that reflashing would "cure" the code it didn't cure mine. Maybe Ed can shed some more specific information on this issue.
Voltage output of less than 45 VDC triggers the P0611 DTC. You're most likely setting that code on a cold start. Try monitoring the voltage on the cold start and see if it is low.
IIRC above readings were first start, mid 40's ambient, truck probably a little warmer. I drive with a ScanGauge and hadn't seen anything below 45 on it, FORScan has picked up a few quick dips as low as 43. ScanGauge may be a little too slow to catch quick spikes. I had a good conversation with Ed and if I understood correctly, the code (like many others) is set after it sees the low voltage a number of times, it's not a blip, there it is, flag it! sort of fault. He did say a logic issue relative to specific injector(s) can trip the code also, I should have taken notes as I can't remember specifics.
Finally got it in the mail to Ed today, Ultra service and Atlas40. I did a lot of studying before deciding on the software, it has VXCF1D6/AMZ2AL12 in it and everyone seems to agree that's not a bad place to be. I'm going to give the Atlas40 a shot though, and if I don't like it I'll get it rolled back.
I'm hopeful this helps my issue with very low power off idle but I'm not convinced it's the issue. It will rule out the FICM though. I found a YouTube video from DieselTechRon for low power that turned out to be a broken CAT blocking the exhaust, I checked my MAF vs TPS correlation before pulling the FICM and they acted correctly.
There was a post awhile back where the OP over tightened the small screw/nut on the spool valves but I can't find it or remember what the symptom was, anybody remember that one?
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. Relay didn't make a difference either. It's still bad low on power. Here's a graph of what's going on with it, as you can see I started recording with the key on and fired it up about 9sec in. The whole thing is only 35sec but it acts like this when warm. Cleared codes and P0611 hasn't came back in 45min or so of running/driving. I'm going to send it in for repair (I'm not sure there is a problem here but I've been suspicious of it for awhile anyway) and see how it acts afterward. Traces top to bottom are FLP, FMP, FVP, and RPM.
