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so the carb on my truck was replaced with a edelbrock 1405. its having a hard start, it bogs when i floor it for a second and it smells rich. do i adjust the two a/f screws on the front of the carb?
the bogging down happens no matter how hot or cold the engine is. the taking a long time to start happens after letting the truck sit for over 2 hours. and actually ive been having a problem with the choke cable not retracting. and when it does retract i pop the hood to see that flap isnt fully open
The easy way to run the choke cable is not the best way. I have ran many of them, and usually run from under the dash down around the steering column through the firewall, and then snake it around back of the engine to the pass side of the carb. It doesn't work too well, too many bends.
On the last truck I had with a manual choke I carefully mapped out where I could drill a hole right behind the carb in the firewall. Check carefully, but on my 80 there was a spot I could get through.
I then mounted the choke cable under the dash on the right side of the steering column, almost over the tranny hump. I mounted it at a 45 degree angle pointed to the direction of the hole I made, so the cable could make a gentle curve up through the hole, and straight to the carb. I had to cut a large portion of the cable off and unwind the sheath to make it fit, but it sure did work well after that.
If your choke is wide open and you still get a bog, turn the engine off and look down in the carb with a flashlight and open the throttle up. You should see two strong streams of gas pour into the engine. If not, then your accelerator pump has a problem.
If you get good flow from the accelerator pump, look at the rear of the carb where the rear barrels are located. There should be a big metal door back there much like the choke door. Make sure this door is not tied open, and it should have spring tension on it. If you nail the pedal and this door flies open, you will get a bog from this carb.
Two of the first things I would check are the float level (wet fuel level); & also that the needle valve is reliably shutting off. If either of these are an issue, no amount of other adjusting will help.
The easy way to run the choke cable is not the best way. I have ran many of them, and usually run from under the dash down around the steering column through the firewall, and then snake it around back of the engine to the pass side of the carb. It doesn't work too well, too many bends.
On the last truck I had with a manual choke I carefully mapped out where I could drill a hole right behind the carb in the firewall. Check carefully, but on my 80 there was a spot I could get through.
I then mounted the choke cable under the dash on the right side of the steering column, almost over the tranny hump. I mounted it at a 45 degree angle pointed to the direction of the hole I made, so the cable could make a gentle curve up through the hole, and straight to the carb. I had to cut a large portion of the cable off and unwind the sheath to make it fit, but it sure did work well after that.
If your choke is wide open and you still get a bog, turn the engine off and look down in the carb with a flashlight and open the throttle up. You should see two strong streams of gas pour into the engine. If not, then your accelerator pump has a problem.
If you get good flow from the accelerator pump, look at the rear of the carb where the rear barrels are located. There should be a big metal door back there much like the choke door. Make sure this door is not tied open, and it should have spring tension on it. If you nail the pedal and this door flies open, you will get a bog from this carb.
yeah the guy who put the choke cable on this truck didnt do it right. has a big bend and i can see the cable bundling up when my buddy pulls the ****. i will check all the things you said in the same order. im starting to know why fuel injection was invented lol. sorry for all the questions. ive never had a vehicle with a carb on it. and im clueless when it comes to one. and by clueless i mean i havent a frickin clue as what to look for with a carb
Two of the first things I would check are the float level (wet fuel level); & also that the needle valve is reliably shutting off. If either of these are an issue, no amount of other adjusting will help.
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