Hi Everyone. I have found this site useful for the past couple months with my 99 f150, and i am buying a 04 f250 xlt 4 door (supercab?) 6.0

it does have rust, not so bad, but they painted over it. not sure if to hide it or to prevent more until it is sold...?

I do not know much about diesels, but what i do know is this

condition cosmetically: Good- Average

I test drove it for about 10 minutes alone, i made sure to give it hell.

I put the pedal down, and it did not hesitate but wasent quick off the line, after the turbo kicked in it started gettin it.... also tested the 4x4 it works from what i felt.

no clanks or anything in the motor, did not seem to overheat, no smells or anything.

i have heard a lot of the negatives about the 6.0 with very few positives. although im sure that is when they are running programmers, which mine may but if so i will change the headbolts.

he was asking 16,900 for it

i got it for 13,500 14250.75 out the door tax tag title....

is that a fair price or sketchy? what else do i need to know? from the little information i have given, what do you think? before i hand a bank financed check over to the guy and lock myself in what should i do?

what would it cost in time and money to have the truck looked at by a mechanic? is it worth it?

my f150 is running thin on me.. so i am in dire need to get a vehicle now

thank you.

the price listed in based just west of parkersburg West Virginia. if that helps any

 

First off... Welcome to FTE and the 6.0 world.

At the top is the tech folder and you will find a lot of very good info there.
And as for a mechanic.Be picky, There are a lot of so called DIESEL MECHANICS
that don't know there @$$ from a tail pipe and will cost you money. The 6.0
has a higher learning curve than most engines. When you find a good mechanic that
knows there stuff they are worth a lot. When you want to do the work your self
you can get a lot of help here.

The one first thing to do is some type of gauge set. I have a ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
You just plug this into the OBD2 port and program in the Xguages and
that will let you watch things so that if there is a problem you can catch it
before it dumps you and gets expensive.
Read all that you can in the tech folder.

Most of all enjoy your new truck.

Sean

 

As Sean said, your choice of mechanic is pretty important.
Due to the Variable Geometry Turbo, the design of the Fuel injection system, and the degree of computer controls and electronics, this engine is a different animal than most diesels. It's operation is widely misunderstood and even a good, honest Tech can can cost you a bunch of $$ if he doesn't know this engine specifically. Knowing a DuraMax and Cummins doesn't translate to this engine.

Believe it or not a simple oil change can become a no-start issue if the shop uses the wrong oil filter! And the wrong filter is exactly what the parts guy is likely to sell you if you go to a AutoZone or other chain store. Stuff like that has contributed to the bad rep of the 6.0. Solution: Use MotorCraft or Racor filters only.

Don't rely on the instrument panel to alert you of engine problems. Many owners have had their truck over heat and stall on the side of the road with steam pouring out from under the hood and needing a tow and $6k in repairs without a single light or gauge showing there is a problem. Solution: purchase an aftermarket OBDII monitor and slap it on the dash. There are several options from ScanGauge, Edge Insight etc. to smartphone apps. But you need one and look at it from time to time.

Many of the guys who talk trash about a 6.0 have never had one, you'll hear "my uncle had all kinds of trouble" or what ever, seldom do you hear me, mine, or I. The few previous owners who do talk bad never understood the issues and paid a bunch of $$ to mechanic who didn't know (or care) either.

So why go through the worry of all this?
It's a great truck. They drive good, pull very strong and look sharp, and a benefit of the bad rep is prices are low. A little knowledge goes a Long way. And unless the truck you purchase is a "problem child" you are no more likely to have issues than anyone else.

I would recommend taking the VIN to a dealership and asking for an Oasis report. Ford keeps a warranty history and you would be wise to find out if this particular truck has a long list of repairs since new. If so, I would continue shopping. Also ask some other 6.0 owners where they go for repairs and service or hit some nearby shops and ask about 6.0 experience. A pre-purchase check out shouldn't cost a lot and you'll get a chance to meet the guys and look around a bit (for other 6.0's in this shop). Also, get the monitor I mentioned, stay on top of servicing the fluids, drive her easy until it warms up, and use the proper filters and you should be fine.

Good luck!

 

You didn't say how many miles, Lariat? King Ranch? You mention Rust... I wouldn't touch a 2004 F250 with Rust for $14K.

If you still want it, do what Rusty says right here....

I would recommend taking the VIN to a dealership and asking for an Oasis report. Ford keeps a warranty history and you would be wise to find out if this particular truck has a long list of repairs since new.

My truck was in 2x for repairs in 100,000 Mile warranty. That was it. SO I had peace of mind when I bought mine. But I paid below ROUGH trade in value for it from a Private Seller. The only thing, mine is 2WD and there aren't a lot of people standing in line fighting over it!

Just imagine, all the negativity over the 6.0 can actually work in your favor. The prices are dropping because people aren't dying to get one of these! They are buying into the stupid "BUY a Duramax" or "Should have got the Cummins".

 

107k on the dash. the dealership is small but reputable from what in see.

rust in the ohio valley is pretty common. on everything.

 

I would say you overpaid by $3000-4000.

Would have been nice to test drive with a set of digital gauges.

It would be nice if a potential buyer were to register on FTE first, state where they are looking for a 6.0 truck and ask if any fellow members with guages are in the area willing to help.

It would save a ton of headaches.

As for those that misunderstand the 6.0, they are about as numerous as those that misunderstand women.

It isn't difficult, and with gauges a problem can be caught in time before it becomes a major headache. And wrenching on the engine actually isn't too difficult once the procedure is known.

Josh

 

Go to Kelly Blue Book and find out what its worth. It shows trade in value on my 05 at 24k.

 

Just booked mine out again and good condition shows 23k on trade in and 26k private party. I would expect a dealer to have a higher price.

 

Comparing an F350 crew cab, longbed in nice condition to a 2004 XLT F250 supercab, shortbed in poor condition like the OP's?

Josh

 

True, just thinking even in poor condition, if mechanically sound seems low. I guess that all depends on how "poor" the condition is.

 

If anyone finds a dealership that is using kbb.com for car values, please let me know. They have their own little book and even if they give you what you want, they roll it into the price of the next truck as much as you will allow them to get away with. Kbb is worthless, it's only good for sellers... Why? Because they are always the highest. Always.

nada.com for 2004 F250 XLT 6.0 FX4 SuperCab Cloth Interior, power windows
9,900 Rough Trade in Value
12,175 Clean Trade in

kbb.com
16,212 Private Party Good Value
15,362 Fair Value

So in closing, this is just my opinion, but a car/truck that is right at 10 years old will NEVER get clean trade in value. That car is going straight to the Auction when the deal is made. If you happen to find someone who really wants your truck, you will be able to sell it private party and get a little more money...

Just my opinion with a few years experience buying and trading in cars, nothing more...

 

My brother in law who runs a dealership told me to.
Work the new deal and get it set before you bring in
any trade that way they can't jack around the new price
to make up for the loss in the trade. But be ready to keep the
trade and sell it your self.

Sean

 

I've bought 6 new vehicles and when I trade them in, the dealerships have always used KBB. It might be their own version but still has the KBB name and ribbon at the top of the page.

It also depends on the condition of the vehicle when you trade them in. You will never get excellent condition but its very easy to achieve the good or very good condition.

 

I understand what you are saying, but have you ever wondered why that book never matches the website? Because it is a copy of the dealer edition of the Kelley Blue Book. That's when I ask myself, why should I use a service like KBB if they are going to make the stuff top secret and have different pricing structures. One for the dealer, one for the buyer and one for the seller?

To me, someone can say "My truck is worth $34,000"... it doesn't mean that they will ever see that when they sell it. I always get a kick out of people who believe that a truck is worth more too when the Engine is rebuilt. Like they deserve a premium. I stay completely away from those. Just rebuilt the engine and transmission=trouble. Oh well, to each their own.

 

I think everyone is a little off topic. I'm not trading in I am buying for 14200 out the door. Around here kbb is worthless it goes by nada and nada is 22k
As for poor condition I think it's more along the line of good condition.
Any on topic insight would be great