Fan sounds like a JET engine, all the time... Clutch?
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Fan sounds like a JET engine, all the time... Clutch?
Driving three hours to the beach today, all interstate, light traffic (lucked out, there), the fan sounded like a jet engine at take-off...
Every now and then, it would act "normal" and quiet down, but it seemed like the fan was engaged, or making a a lot of noise.
Is there a way to test, or some idea on the situation?
Thanks in advance. Truck is a 2005
Every now and then, it would act "normal" and quiet down, but it seemed like the fan was engaged, or making a a lot of noise.
Is there a way to test, or some idea on the situation?
Thanks in advance. Truck is a 2005
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Driving three hours to the beach today, all interstate, light traffic (lucked out, there), the fan sounded like a jet engine at take-off...
Every now and then, it would act "normal" and quiet down, but it seemed like the fan was engaged, or making a a lot of noise.
Is there a way to test, or some idea on the situation?
Thanks in advance. Truck is a 2005
Every now and then, it would act "normal" and quiet down, but it seemed like the fan was engaged, or making a a lot of noise.
Is there a way to test, or some idea on the situation?
Thanks in advance. Truck is a 2005
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It's a 2005 Excursion, so gauge readout is limited to what's on the dash. Prehistoric, compared to some of the newer clusters.
If it helps, it sounds like a jet engine from the time I left the driveway, engine was cold. Never reached hot from what I could tell on the swing gauge needle, but I cannot tell the exact temps.
Thanks for any insight.
If it helps, it sounds like a jet engine from the time I left the driveway, engine was cold. Never reached hot from what I could tell on the swing gauge needle, but I cannot tell the exact temps.
Thanks for any insight.
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Fan clutch sounds stuck.
As for the "jet" sound. It can sound like that with as little as 1200 rpm fan speed, which is most likely the range one would see with A/C and only 207 ECT.
High speed is 4000 rpm.
Josh
As for the "jet" sound. It can sound like that with as little as 1200 rpm fan speed, which is most likely the range one would see with A/C and only 207 ECT.
High speed is 4000 rpm.
Josh
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Spanaway
Before you jump on new parts. Check the harness to the fan for any
chafing. You have a 12 to the fan clutch and the PCM controls the
grounding of the circuit. So if the ware from the PCM is chafing
and grounding out you will get full fan.
You also should get some thing like the SGII ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
This will help now and later when someone asks what is the XYZ reading.
There are also other types of tools and if you have a smart phone that
may be the better way to go.
Sean
chafing. You have a 12 to the fan clutch and the PCM controls the
grounding of the circuit. So if the ware from the PCM is chafing
and grounding out you will get full fan.
You also should get some thing like the SGII ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
This will help now and later when someone asks what is the XYZ reading.
There are also other types of tools and if you have a smart phone that
may be the better way to go.
Sean
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Truck ran hot today while going up inclines w/ AC on. Out of the truck, fan was spinning. A rev of the engine and it sounded like a jet, still.
I cannot see the wiring to see where it might be chafed, as suggested earlier. Almost like the fan wasn't working, earlier...
I cannot see the wiring to see where it might be chafed, as suggested earlier. Almost like the fan wasn't working, earlier...
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Middle Tn.
If the trucks running hot then the fan is doing it's job. You need some real gauges. Stock gauges will give you about 5 seconds warning before the truck self destructs.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
The first step to diagnosing your issue is to have it scanned for DTCs (DTCs = Diagnostic Trouble Codes). If you get a P0528 Fan Speed Input missing. THAT, can and certainly will cause the fan clutch to randomly, but consistently run at elevated duty cycles the way you describe. In a nutshell, the PCM doesn't "know" the speed your fan is running at so it will command some default higher duty cycles to protect the engine from potential damage.
But in your case, if the engine is in fact running hot, you'll need to repair what is causing it to run hot. For what it's worth, I have seen improperly secured, or outright disconnected ECT and/or EOT sensors causing the fan clutch to run at higher duty cycles as well. With either sensor disconnected, you will not see a ZERO reading for your temperature data either. What you will see, is an "estimated" temperature data if the sensor is disconnected (and/or if there is an open in the wiring to said sensor), based on the inputs of the other sensors, as well as the vehicle's operating conditions.
But in your case, if the engine is in fact running hot, you'll need to repair what is causing it to run hot. For what it's worth, I have seen improperly secured, or outright disconnected ECT and/or EOT sensors causing the fan clutch to run at higher duty cycles as well. With either sensor disconnected, you will not see a ZERO reading for your temperature data either. What you will see, is an "estimated" temperature data if the sensor is disconnected (and/or if there is an open in the wiring to said sensor), based on the inputs of the other sensors, as well as the vehicle's operating conditions.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
The first step to diagnosing your issue is to have it scanned for DTCs (DTCs = Diagnostic Trouble Codes). If you get a P0528 Fan Speed Input missing. THAT, can and certainly will cause the fan clutch to randomly, but consistently run at elevated duty cycles the way you describe. In a nutshell, the PCM doesn't "know" the speed your fan is running at so it will command some default higher duty cycles to protect the engine from potential damage.
But in your case, if the engine is in fact running hot, you'll need to repair what is causing it to run hot. For what it's worth, I have seen improperly secured, or outright disconnected ECT and/or EOT sensors causing the fan clutch to run at higher duty cycles as well. With either sensor disconnected, you will not see a ZERO reading for your temperature data either. What you will see, is an "estimated" temperature data if the sensor is disconnected (and/or if there is an open in the wiring to said sensor), based on the inputs of the other sensors, as well as the vehicle's operating conditions.
But in your case, if the engine is in fact running hot, you'll need to repair what is causing it to run hot. For what it's worth, I have seen improperly secured, or outright disconnected ECT and/or EOT sensors causing the fan clutch to run at higher duty cycles as well. With either sensor disconnected, you will not see a ZERO reading for your temperature data either. What you will see, is an "estimated" temperature data if the sensor is disconnected (and/or if there is an open in the wiring to said sensor), based on the inputs of the other sensors, as well as the vehicle's operating conditions.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
I'm just running through some real time possibilities that will cause what he describes. Possibilities that I've already seen myself first hand.
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Coolant was low, as I checked when I got home. I'll check further in the AM, where it might have gone...
Thanks for the responses, thus far.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,505
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
If the engine temperature gauge went into the "red zone", you obviously have some legitimate cooling system issues that would be far better addressed sooner than later. Is the water pump even flowing coolant? You can check this very easily by disconnecting the small rubber hose that runs from the intake mainfold to the coolant degas bottle, at the degas bottle end. Start the engine with the hose aimed into an empty bucket. You should see a steady stream of coolant exiting the hose if the water pump is flowing coolant.
If the water pump is flowing coolant, then your next step would be to do a pressure test to pinpoint the source of your coolant leak and repair as needed immediately before further damage is done.
If the water pump is flowing coolant, then your next step would be to do a pressure test to pinpoint the source of your coolant leak and repair as needed immediately before further damage is done.
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