In reference to this post they describ, and I can see how the fuel filter is in the bottom of the fuel pump.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

How hard is it to unscrew the top to access the fuel pump. I have a strap wrench to do it but I don't want to brake anything. Especially since it has been on there alot of years probily.

Does the fuel pump have a gasket? if so does it come with the filter or do I need to know to pick it up too?

 

There is a rubber gasket at the top of the can, you con not hurt anything in there. Once the can is unscrewed the filter just pulls off.

 

The filter comes with the gasket. When installing it onto the lip of the cannister, put a light film of oil around it.

If the cannister has been on there a number of years, it might be difficult to remove and may twist apart by the use of a strap wrench.

Many people (especially in today's world) are unaware there is filter inside the pump, so it rarely gets changed. And since they are unaware, they install an inline fuel filter.

Meanwhile the other filter is clogging up inside the cannister.

 

If the cannister has been on for a very long time which is more then likely it will be stubborn coming off. The upper mount that it attaches to, is press fit and crimped to the Diaphragm assembly, and as such when you turn the fliter you have to be careful not to turn that upper mount as it can damage it and cause a leak.. I found this out the hard way. If that occurs you will need to replace the pump assembly. Use a strap wrench on the cannister, and turn gently, you can back the upper mount with a large pipe wrench channel locks, or even just by using your hand to prevent it from rotating. The filter should come with a large O-ring style of gasket. It is better to use a thin layer white lithium, or heavy grease on the O-ring as an anti seize, as oil will wash off of it too easily defeating the purpose.

As for the parts being Obsolete, well that is a matter of semantics, it is Obsolete as far as Ford parts guys are concerned, but there are many after market, and NOS companies that manufacture replacements that are not FOMOCO, but are a perfect fit, and do teh job just as well as the OEM, and in a few cases are actually better, nicer looking aftermarket upgrades... aka polished aluminum, and or chromed high performance parts.... but they come at a cost, Jegs and Summit usually have these available. My local Autozone carries a complete OEM STYLE replacement pump and cannister kit complete with filter O-ring, and gasket for complete replacement of your OEM unit.

Note: the Cannister is a thin wall Aluminum Construction.. aka easy to crush!!! so be gentle with it.

 

Thanks guys

I will be doing that hopefully tommorow before I put my rebuilt "by me" Holler 2 barrel.

As I was re-building the Holley I realized what a score it was out of the pyp. It had a bit of carbon build up, but no gas deposits or laquering on the inside. So I hosed it down with brake cleaner to clean up the outside, and carb cleaner on the inside to flush it out.

 

Awesome score.. just make darned sure the jets are clear, and that the float needle valve works, before installation , or it could be a long day! .

 

I got a rebuild kit from a local performace shop, and it came with new need seats, and a power valve.

 

Just put my rebuilt by me 2 barrel on the Ferd Fteenthousand, and wow does it run better.

I only drove around the block becouse I still haven't registered it, but it idles and starts up better.