with the several lines in/out of this assembley...just how big a job....degree of difficulty is this thing going to be to replace. Had a fuel leak and local ford dealership says the assembly appears to have a pin hole size leak and wants $680 to replace. They also want to replace two ac lines to fix my ac...another $675...this place is killing me ! Thanks as always for any input.

 

What is your truck and engine?

The fuel filter should either be in-line ($6.00 at NAPA and 15 minutes to replace) or on the bottom of the fuel pump ($3.00 at NAPA and 30 seconds to replace). If it's the fuel pump itself that's leaking, $45.00 for a new one and maybe a half an hour to replace it is all that's required. From the information given, the dealership is way out of line on that price, and it's not something I would ever consider taking it to a shop for, since it's overly simple to do yourself. I just bought myself a new fuel pump and fuel filter for my truck for a little over $50.00 and I'm going to put them on either tomorrow or in the next couple of days.

 

What you have is a dealership that is trying to retire their whole staff on the repair of your vehicle... As stated in the previous post, filters are cheap and at most should only take a few minutes, but if your fuel pump is leaking, that too is an easy replacement, taking maybe an hour at teh outside most. as for the A/C hoses, find a good A/C shop, you will probably get it done for half as much as the Dealership... if not even cheaper!

 

I replaced all of the non solid lines from the tank to the carb on my truck for about $20.00. I recently inquired about converting my truck to Ethanol, and the Mechanic told me he would replace all my lines with new hard lines for $300.00 He said he has to do it in several pieces, with flair fittings or it wouldn't be so much, and that included rejetting the carb. I agree with Jetcopterpilot, the shop you went to is trying to retire his staff on your repair. Find a good old school wrench turner. You can get a new fuel pump for about $40. If you have a screwdriver, and a ratchet with a 1/2 socket you can replace it in about 30 minutes.

 

Are you talking about the 95 listed in your profile??

 

The cartridge fuel filter (C4AZ-9365-B ~ Motorcraft FG-1A) fits into a metal cannister (C3AZ-9355-A) that threads on/off the fuel pump.

The filter is readily available at FoMoCo Dealers, autoparts stores. The cannister is obsolete .. but dozens can be found NOS.

This same filter and cannister were used on myriad 1960/76 Passenger Cars, Trucks. 1966/77 Bronco's and 1965/74 Econolines.

C3AZ-9355-A =

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 20 = 800-543-4959.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 33 = 888-727-0418.

COLLECTORS AUTO SUPPLY in Oroville WA has 84 = 800-414-4462.
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Take the two A/C hoses to NAPA, they can make new ones up for about 100 bucks for the pair.

It's a simple operation, the only tool required is a screw driver! A coupla A/C fittings for each hose, 4 A/C hose clamps and the length of the proper size hose is all that's needed.

btw: Ford did not supply made up A/C hoses for service part replacements for anything until the 1980's, all had to be made up by Ford partsguys, NAPA, A/C shops.

If I had the parts, I could make these hoses up in 10 minutes, I kid you not! Over 35 years, I made up 100's of A/C hoses.

 

I'm bumping this one because I noticed gas shooting out from the fuel pump area yesterday (truck has been sitting for about a year). Assumed it was the pump and that the squirting was coming from the vent holes (thanks to researching on this forum ) but, as I started to remove the old pump, I noticed that the bolt closest to the radiator was loose. I decided to tighten it and see if that stopped the leak but noticed that the bolt wouldn't tighten. It unscrewed fine so I thought maybe the hole threads were stripped. I took the pump out and noticed the other bolt was quite a bit longer. I also noticed the gasket was shot but the pump pushed a strong stream of gas when I pushed it. I tried hand screwing the short bolt back into the hole and it only got started before stopping, indicating the hole is cross-threaded (although it spun freely when the pump was mounted...) The other bolt had the same results.
So now I'm thinking that I've got to tap the hole, get a new gasket and I'm done but am wondering; 1) is the short bolt the wrong one? Even with an unstripped hole, it will barely thread into the hole because of its length. I've got shop manuels but they don't show the bolts and 2) anyone know who sells only the fuel pump gasket? I've checked the usual specialty places and have had no luck. I'd rather not buy an unnecesary fuel pump.

 

What engine do you have in your truck? 240/300? 352? Custom?

Napa, at least, sells just the fuel pump gasket. Should be the same for the inline 6 or V8

NAPA AUTO PARTS

I have a 1966 with a 300 and another with 352. I can pull a bolt and measure it for you. Actually have the pump off the 300 right now so that is easy to measure.

 

It's a 352. I meant to post this is in the 352 fuel pump thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-pump.html but it linked to this and I was reading it and posted here by mistake..

I appreciate your offer to pull the bolt and that would be great but, since it's the 352, I'm thinking someone here will post the correct bolts fairly quickly.

And thanks for that Napa link. I've got a store close by..

 

The fuel pump bolts on my 352 are 3/8"x16 and about 1.5" long. They thread into the front cover housing instead of the block. I believe the front cover is aluminum so it might be a more permanent fix to replace the front cover than to try to tap it. A helicoil might work, too, if it's stripped out.

 

I like to use studs and nuts instead of bolts in aluminum. Get the right length and thread and use a bit of locktite on the stud. Solve the problem permanently. IMHO.

 

Got a set of ARP bolts from Summit racing when I was rebuilding my 352, I can't recall the size..... also Most of the timing covers are Cast Iron, although there are a few aluminum covers to be found, they are quite difficult to come by... in the long run drill it thread it and helicoil it, is probably the best solution.... the size if I recall 1 1/2 X 3/8 X16 thread

 

The stud and Locktite was a good idea but I'd already bought a bolt just a bit over 1.5" that matched the other side and tapped the hole and it mounted up fine with no leaks. There's a leak now from the filter canister. The gasket is slightly larger than the recess in the canister so, of course, it squishes out when tightened and leaks. I'd just replaced both filter and gasket over a year ago. Weird. I'll tackle that one tomorrow perhaps. Thanks for all the help...

 

The only V8's that the fuel pumps bolt to the engine block are 351C/351M/400's. These engines do not have a timing cover per se, just a flat engine cover plate.

The bolt pattern is at 12 & 6 o'clock. All other V8 fuel pumps have a 3 & 9 o'clock bolt pattern.

20468-S8 .. Bolt-Fuel Pump to Timing Cover ~ 3/8" -16 x 1 1/2" long / 1958/76 all FE engines / 1955/57 Ford/Mercury/Thunderbird 292/312 / 1962/65 221/260/289.

 

Comparing to the 300 which does thread into the block but not really saying what I was thinking, I guess.