Power widow not working

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Oct 8, 2010 | 10:31 PM

BIGIRONMAN9

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From: N. CALIF

Power widow not working

My 2003 f250 has a problem with the drivers door power window not working. Passenger side works right but drivers side switch will not operate driver or passenger side window in up or down setting. I have inspected the wiring at the door jam it good. The switch at drivers side only has 8.5 volts going into the switch the rest of the truck has 15.2 volts. The drivers switch has 0 volts out of the switch when pressed. How can the wires going to and at the drivers switch have 8.5 volts and the passenger side has 15.2 at it as does the rest of the truck? Also I have replaced the drivers switch with a new one from the ford dealer with no difference.

Oct 13, 2010 | 10:56 PM

SDF250fan

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I was formerly a GM tech for six years and a glass tech for six more. I have worked on every brand of vehicle I know of, and ford window motors and ford wiring has probably stumped me most of all. Has the truck ever been wrecked? This is where a lot of problems start, with groung wires. Nine times out of ten, I have found the answer to a problem like yours to be a bad ground in the end. I'm not sure if that is your problem, but after I verify voltage, I go straight to the grounds. Also, another reason for a variance in voltage is resistance. Corrosion, rust, and torn or damaged wires can cause high resistance in wiring. Another place to look is a shorted motor. Access the motor and try to opperate it with a 12v battery charger and some jumper wires. Reverse the polarity (swith the jumpers) to run it up and down. That will verify that the window motor is working. Hope this helps. Get a service manual, study the scematics, and do a troubleshooting worksheet. Good luck...I've been whooped by a Ford window switch before and not afraid to say it.

Oct 14, 2010 | 02:14 PM

BIGIRONMAN9

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From: N. CALIF

Thanks SDF250fan for the reply
I have already tested the motor with jump leads direct from the battery and it works good.
What has me confused is the power going into the switch is 8.5 volts. It is the same if I pick up the ground from the switch or direct to the battery. The truck has never been in a wreck and I have inspected the wiring from the switch to the area where it goes into the dash and it looks good. Can the GEM mod. have something to do with the problem? The passenger window switch is getting 15.2 volts to it but the wiring schematic shows it getting power from the drivers switch if im reading the schematic right. How is that possible with 8.5 volts at the drivers switch?

Thanks
Mike

Oct 14, 2010 | 08:58 PM

SDF250fan

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Mike,

I'm gonna go out on a limb here. Lets get back to the basics. We are dealing with 12V systems on our trucks and you are measuring 15.2V. According to what we were always taught, 15.2V should not be present anywhere but the alternator and at the ampmeter, and that's a little high even there. Every where else should be regulated by fuses, relays, and resistors. I wonder if a short to voltage in the passenger side circuit could be back feeding to the drivers switch and causing a problem. If you were to unplug everything on the passenger side and recheck the drivers side, would the readings be different? I'll hang in this thread until its fixed...Let me know.

Jeff

Oct 16, 2010 | 02:54 PM

BIGIRONMAN9

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From: N. CALIF

The alternator was bad again. The third one in 2 months. That explains the circuit breaker for the gauges tripping at around 2500 rpm. I had the alternator checked at a electric shop and they said it was spiking voltage at higher rpm. With the new on working properly "for the time being anyway" the voltage at the right switch is 12.4 the driver side switch is 9.4 with right side plugged in and unplugged. Can you tell me if the power coming into the drivers switch come from the "GEM" mod. there is two hot wires at the switch and both are the same 9.4 voltage.

Mike

Oct 16, 2010 | 03:45 PM

Fordfanatic4life

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Joined: Oct 2008

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From: Richmond BC

master switch is bad..

i haad a similar problem with mine but it was the passenger rear window that wouldnt work..

turns out teh drivers side master switch controls/overrides all the other windows..