Upfitter Switch Question
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
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From: Ontario, Canada
Upfitter Switch Question
I would like to utilize the upfitter switches for a set of strobe flashers I will be installing (I use them for roadside construction and they draw way less power than the 4-ways on the truck). I need them to be powered even if the truck is not running.
Would it be difficult to disconnect the relayed power wire from a switch and run a fused wire that is always hot? from the 12v outlet beside switches, for example.
On a similar note, with the dual batteries, is it possible to drain both batteries using accessories when the engine is not running? or is there some sort of setup that allows only one battery to be drained while "saving" the other one for starting the truck?
Would it be difficult to disconnect the relayed power wire from a switch and run a fused wire that is always hot? from the 12v outlet beside switches, for example.
On a similar note, with the dual batteries, is it possible to drain both batteries using accessories when the engine is not running? or is there some sort of setup that allows only one battery to be drained while "saving" the other one for starting the truck?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,600
Likes: 84
I've never tried to start a diesel with only one battery.
The diesel needs both batteries to provide enough cranking amps to turn over the engine, especially now that the outside temp is cooler. With one missing (low/dead) out of the pair, the starter would not be happy with you.
I see a lot of people say one battery is for cranking and one battery is for accessories but it's my understanding these batteries are configured in parallel so that can't be a valid comment. Accessories may use that second battery but for starting, both of those batteries are required.
The batteries would not be in parallel if only one was needed for starting.
Someone with a technical understanding can probably add to this or correct me altogether.
The diesel needs both batteries to provide enough cranking amps to turn over the engine, especially now that the outside temp is cooler. With one missing (low/dead) out of the pair, the starter would not be happy with you.
I see a lot of people say one battery is for cranking and one battery is for accessories but it's my understanding these batteries are configured in parallel so that can't be a valid comment. Accessories may use that second battery but for starting, both of those batteries are required.
The batteries would not be in parallel if only one was needed for starting.
Someone with a technical understanding can probably add to this or correct me altogether.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: South Bend, IN
i dont have one of these new fangled trucks im stuck in the stone age 91 f250 7.3 IDI but i dont have the money to spend 
on a new one but it still is a diesel and draws hard when starting when i replaced the fender i took the batery off the left side and was able to start it with no problem for the other question warn sells a battery isolator so you cant kill both batterys http ://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/battery_isolator.shtml and i dont see why you couldnt make the switches work running them off an unused fuse slot
on a new one but it still is a diesel and draws hard when starting when i replaced the fender i took the batery off the left side and was able to start it with no problem for the other question warn sells a battery isolator so you cant kill both batterys http ://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/battery_isolator.shtml and i dont see why you couldnt make the switches work running them off an unused fuse slot
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 314
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From: Winfield, WV
I don't think you would want to wire the switch so it is hot all of the time. You will end up with a slow draw on the battery. It can be done if you really want to. All you have to do is wire the relay for the switch to a constant power. I had my relays apart already to see how they were wired. I have my 2011 wired with 4 strobes up front, 2 in the rear, and blue lights in the grill. I have mine all wired up to an upfitter switch. It looks sweet with them all going!!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: Saugus,CA
I don't think you would want to wire the switch so it is hot all of the time. You will end up with a slow draw on the battery. It can be done if you really want to. All you have to do is wire the relay for the switch to a constant power. I had my relays apart already to see how they were wired. I have my 2011 wired with 4 strobes up front, 2 in the rear, and blue lights in the grill. I have mine all wired up to an upfitter switch. It looks sweet with them all going!!
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 677
Likes: 118
From: Ontario, Canada
I don't think you would want to wire the switch so it is hot all of the time. You will end up with a slow draw on the battery. It can be done if you really want to. All you have to do is wire the relay for the switch to a constant power. I had my relays apart already to see how they were wired. I have my 2011 wired with 4 strobes up front, 2 in the rear, and blue lights in the grill. I have mine all wired up to an upfitter switch. It looks sweet with them all going!!
Anyway, I have wired my strobes to upfitter #4 and since the upfitters work in the 'accessory' key position, it should be ok for me. 9 times out of 10 the truck will be idling when the lights are on.
My strobes are clear (not red or amber, etc) from D and R Electronics here in Ontario. I put one in the lower portion of each tail light to flash red and I put one strobe in each fog light so they flash white up front. Looks good to me and gets driver's attention when I am pulled over at a construction site!
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